Member perks at Britain’s Best Local Restaurants 2024
Published 26 July 2024

'Well done, Bavette, for getting me outside the M25,' a reader cheers. Quite a way outside too, but the journey to Leeds was evidently worth it to dine at Sandy Jarvis and Clément Cousin's convivial neighbourhood bistro in the northerly suburb of Horsforth. Shelves of books on deep green walls create a smart domestic ambience, and the food does the rest.

It's a Franco-Yorkshire alliance in every sense (M Cousin hails from Anjou on the Loire), and the menu reflects that collaborative spirit. Start with pork and prune pâté en croûte with the house mustard for an inimitably Gallic appetiser experience. Starters might embrace light crab tartelette with fennel, pea shoots and saffron aïoli, before the speciality bavette makes an appearance, tricked out with French beans and frites – the kind of sturdy main course that won't let you down. A more domestic route might yield plaice with potted shrimps, rainbow chard and Jersey Royals.

Italian Candonga could well be a strawberry variety you haven't tried, appearing here in season on Basque cheesecake with yoghurt sorbet; otherwise, the dessert list is pure bistro French – perhaps St Emilion au chocolat or raspberry frangipane with matching sorbet. Wines delve into some of the less heavily trodden byways of France for Jurançon Sec, Gaillac and the Cousin family's own Anjou Cabernet Franc and Grolleau Gris.

It's easy to see why this laid-back neighbourhood diner in the heart of Stokes Croft attracts such a loyal following. Blending classy, seasonal cooking from chef Matty Groves (formerly of Bath’s Menu Gordon Jones) with a friendly, relaxed atmosphere in unpretentious surroundings, a meal here is a reliably good night out. And it may take the whole night – service is never less than charming,  but it can be slow at times. A recent reconfiguration has seen the kitchen move downstairs, allowing space for a chef’s table private-dining experience. The ground-floor dining room now feels a little lighter and brighter, though not much has changed about the shabby-chic, dark blue and white decor, save for a lick of white paint.

Menu-wise, it’s worth ruining your appetite by dipping into the snack section, perhaps for a home-baked toasted crumpet topped with gooey Cheddar emulsion and a tangle of piquant onion. Follow on with, say, a starter of warm crab and crayfish butter with fresh herbs and house bread. Mains could be a classic French onglet with peppercorn sauce, frites and Strode valley salad or a beautifully executed plate of hand-rolled tagliatelle with girolles and toasted pine nuts bathed in a rich Parmesan and butter sauce that would make any nonna smile. Portions are generous, but do save space for the regularly changing homemade ice creams and sorbets. Fixed-price lunches are a steal.

The drinks list offers cocktails, local ciders and ales, but wine is a strength here, so you can rely on decent-value house selections or take the opportunity to try out something new. The owners also run Carmen Street Wine (a bottle shop and wine bar) just round the corner. 

Two words: Snickers trifle. Described by one devotee as ‘the best pudding in the world,’ it’s a local legend and commands a loyal following at this all-day brasserie. Praise indeed. A welcome pit-stop on the way to and from Holyhead, Catch 22 is one of the few restaurants on Anglesey that's open all year and doesn’t close early or out of season, making it 'a great asset to the community, not just for holidaymakers'. It's also very involved in local life, hosting markets and business events.

Meanwhile, inside the modern two-storey building – attractively open-plan but with secluded seating areas and a striking pictorial relief of the island’s artisan producers – the owners serve up breakfast, coffee and cake and afternoon tea in addition to their full repertoire.

The seasonal menu may be mainstream but it's far from narrow: crispy chicken wings with garlic and Parmesan butter (a 'legendary' family favourite) vie for popularity with the Welsh Cheddar croquettes, served with leeks, black garlic and Parmesan. Influences from further afield show in the Singapore-style chicken curry and pork belly bao buns, while the substantial bacon cheeseburger comes with baby gem, burger sauce, tomato, pickles, red onion and chunky, triple-cooked chips. The owners are also proud of their seafood supplies, as well as the dry-aged meats procured from a local butcher.

And that Snickers trifle – a sybaritic concoction of malt panna cotta, peanut caramel and chocolate ganache – is available to take home if you’re too full to attempt it at the table. The drinks list covers all bases, from mango daiquiris and elderflower lemonade to Welsh beers and a short list of affordably priced wines (mostly below £30). 

Playing a starring role at the Artisan Market in Edgbaston, Chapter covers a lot of bases in one stylish, streamlined package. Weekend breakfasts should start the day as you mean it to go on, a smart bar with glitzy cocktails opens out to a terrace for drinking in the Birmingham sun, and dining takes place in a smartly attired room with op-art banquettes and an open kitchen. It all looks great (or 'annoyingly photogenic, if your partner insists on snapping') and the whole show is run by a team of impressively knowledgeable staff. Menus (fixed-price or carte) deal in the kind of modern brasserie dishes that city-dwellers love to eat: Caesar salad made with smoked mackerel; ham hock rarebit; chicken ballotine with couscous and chimichurri; market fish in, say, curried cream or lemon and caper butter. Simple bistro desserts won't lack for takers when it comes to strawberry pavlova or a chocolate and pistachio mousse topped with raspberries and a brandy snap. Sunday roasts are an invaluable local amenity, especially for locals who are partial to crackled pork rack or dry-aged beef rump with Yorkshire pud, perhaps served with a side of cauliflower cheese. Drappier Champagnes head up a by-the-glass wine list that isn't pedantic enough to give vintage dates, even for the reds.

Sitting modestly amid the hustle and bustle of Levenshulme’s frenetic Stockport Road, Cibus has grown from a market stall to a consistently popular neighbourhood restaurant. Indeed, when you enter you could almost be in the Italian tratt of your dreams – 'it’s always a good sign when one hears diners speaking Italian with the staff,’ observed one reporter. During the pandemic, Cibus delivered pizzas to the housebound and that community-minded service continues.

At first glance, the menu might seem like a roll call of trattoria standards but it also features regularly refreshed regional specialities, coupled with a level of cooking, sourcing and service that would shame many a fancier joint. Alongside top-class Italian ingredients, the owners support local suppliers, and can regularly be seen shopping in the nearby market. Their approach is flexible. You can pop in for a glass of wine and some cicchetti (perhaps aubergine arancini, baked portobello mushrooms with salmoriglio dressing or cod cheeks with peperonata) or settle in for something more substantial – including traditional roasts with a twist on Sundays.

The mainstays of the menu are the highly rated, crispy sourdough pizzas and interesting pasta dishes – ravioli stuffed with salt cod or orecchiette with meatballs and braciole ragù, for example. In addition, there's always a meat dish of the week (perhaps Italian sausages with goat's cheese, mash, onion gravy and greens) as well as a catch of the day. To finish, check out the salted doughnuts fashioned from little parcels of pizza dough – although the ‘gorgeous’ limoncello and Prosecco sorbet also comes highly recommended. Cocktails and digestifs have an Italian accent, likewise the well-chosen craft beers and wine list.

Hebden Bridge has always been a hotbed of laid-back cafés and cake shops, but a chic, boho wave has rippled through the stone-built town centre of late: one well-travelled visitor almost felt their compass needle juddering towards Hoxton. That said, the town is still Yorkshire through and through, and here is a place that suits it to a nicety – ‘unfailingly reliable, unerringly delicious, unremittingly relaxed … and brilliant value, too’.

It helps to pronounce Coin in the French manner, as it's on a corner site – a flatiron wedge of a building that was once (what else?) a bank. The decor also lends itself to that high-end vibe, with exposed brickwork, ironwork and plenty of space between the wooden tables. Young, casually dressed waiting staff are a delight, and are efficiently on top of their game.

An inspired and ever-changing sharing menu has plenty of modern brasserie energy, opening perhaps with a clutch of Lindisfarne oysters with lemon and Tabasco or a plate of yellow fine beans, Isle of Wight tomatoes, potato and capers. Wandering into the more robust precincts of the repertoire, one might stumble on gammon with new season’s leeks braised in Sheppy’s cider, while side orders of crispy Maris Peer potatoes with tomato salsa or puffed choux chips dusted in finely grated Parmesan should definitely not be passed up. There are also plates of excellent artisan charcuterie and cheeses (served with quince jelly and a Sevilla cracker). Classic desserts major on set creams and custards.

Fondue Sundays with Bloody Mary chasers sound like fun, likewise the adventurous list of low-intervention wines. In short, ‘Coin has the character, quality and consistency to keep drawing you back… whether it's just for a vermouth, a glass of wine or a long lazy meal with friends’.

If you think Covino is just a touch snug in its dimensions, be aware that when it first opened, just around the corner, it was even teensier. Tuck your elbows in, and be prepared to be seduced by a high-achieving gastronomic wine bar that has become an integral component of Chester's dynamic city centre. The midweek evening offer extends to a lunchtime start on Fridays and Saturdays (as the end of the working week beckons), and it reliably encompasses lively small-plate dining of true distinction. A combo of beetroot and tofu dressed in gochujang and sesame competes with a salad of bitter leaves, Bleu d'Auvergne and orange in the vitamin stakes. Pasta is impressive, perhaps cavatelli with Marina di Chioggia squash and sage, while proteins get motoring with salt fish beignets and tarragon mayo or the properly satiating guinea fowl with borlotti beans and root veg. The reader who commented that the winning service is 'always charming, always funny,' reminds us that being entertained is an often overlooked, but essential, aspect of happy dining. That, and a bowl of muscovado pudding with Pedro Ximénez-lashed figs, probably. The wine selection continues to impress for its imaginative range.

Back in the day, Darleys was a destination address for those looking for a ‘posh option’ when celebrating significant birthdays, anniversaries or graduations. But the current owners, who took over in 2019, have refurbished the old cotton mill overlooking a fast-flowing section of the Derwent and brought in a new team of chefs with strong local backgrounds to make the place more accessible to all. Although the fine-dining aspect has been retained (various tasting menus), you can now drop in for breakfast, work your way through the good-value bistro menu or the carte, and tuck into a traditional Sunday lunch. Expect a repertoire that pushes all the modern dining buttons, with a heavy reliance on seasonal produce and competitive pricing. Venison with Wye Valley asparagus, fermented plum and wild garlic has been justly applauded, likewise the smoked haddock risotto, and a Derbyshire rib of beef with braised beef cheek, lovage and onion. Breads also receive plenty of praise, alongside their accompanying pumpkin butter (‘the best thing I’ve tasted in a long time’), while desserts could include strawberry cannelloni with pistachio or a chocolate and mango délice with passion fruit and salted caramel. It’s all served by staff who ‘go above and beyond, and are obviously well trained’. Cocktails are worth exploring and there's a list of mainly European wines to match the food – although the bottles from Halfpenny Green Wine Estate in nearby Staffordshire are also worth a punt.

Above Carlyon Bay, at one end of a parade of shops and cafés behind an area of off-road parking, there is more culinary glamour to Edie's than might first appear. Co-owner and chef Nigel Brown has done stints at Le Manoir aux Quat'Saisons and at the late Bill Granger's Sydney restaurant. Inside, the place feels like a true neighbourhood spot, not least because it is run with such sympathetic charm.

Contemporary brasserie cooking is the name of the game, with a good-value fixed-price menu supplementing an appreciably adventurous carte. First off might be a dazzling salad of Isle of Wight tomatoes with pickled shallots, pangrattato, whipped feta and basil oil, an energising blaze of colour. Much is made of the starter soufflés, perhaps Comté cheese with spinach and wild mushroom fricassée. Soft gnudi make a satisfying lunchtime main, accompanied by a riot of spring veg in lemon butter with crumbled sourdough croûtes adding crunch, while fish dishes are all you might expect for the location – maybe halibut with brown shrimps and saffron potatoes in curry sauce. Fillet steaks with hand-cut chips, watercress and Café de Paris butter will be a dead cert for a large proportion of the clientele.

Finish with elderflower panna cotta, yoghurt sorbet and lemon curd or – if you missed its savoury cousin earlier on – a raspberry soufflé with rum anglaise and vanilla ice cream. The short, helpfully annotated wine list has reasonable mark-ups, with glasses from £5.25.

‘From “oyster happy hour” to beautifully roasted sharing platters, this place has so many nuances to keep locals coming back, and to drag Edinburgh’s food fanatics away from Stockbridge and Leith,’ noted a fan of this ‘relentlessly good’ neighbourhood bistro in Bruntsfield. Fans of tinned fish and other booze-friendly snacks make a beeline for the broody little wine bar in the basement, although the main action takes place in the bright, unfussy dining room at street level. Despite the postcode, chef-patron Stuart Smith’s cooking is anything but parochial, and he is currently delivering some of the best seafood in the city.

Small plates form the bulk of the menu, backed up by ‘market fish’ specials (perhaps ‘perfectly cooked’ John Dory on the bone accompanied by pak choi, carrots, fries and aïoli). Salt cod mousse with herb oil and grilled sourdough is a fixture, but also look for wonderfully sweet Gairloch langoustines with emerald-hued wild garlic mayo or pickled mussels with carrot, buckwheat and fermented peach hot sauce. Away from the sea, you might find Denhead Farm asparagus with white beans, walnut and guanciale or slow-cooked lamb shoulder accompanied by friggitelli peppers, roasted onion and goat’s curd.

For afters, readers have singled out a ‘suitably tart’ lemon posset and a well-judged chocolate mousse with miso caramel and hazelnuts. The comprehensive but accessible wine list has a distinctly French accent and at least a dozen options by the glass, while a separate, more indulgent 'cellar list' is available for those seeking to mark an occasion – or to create one.

‘Classy and cool’; ‘just great food’; 'original, packed full of flavour, presented with care’ – just some of the praise heaped on John Lawson's singular restaurant. This welcoming, intimate venue (all exposed brick, subtle lighting and muted colours) has a loyal local following, and it was positively bubbling with chat between couples, friends and families on our lunchtime visit. The menus are built around nourishment and health, using mainly organic ingredients but without being preachy or losing sight of deliciousness.

There’s a brisk, keenly priced 'menu du jour', but linger over four courses if you can because it's cracking value – especially with snacks, gluten-free focaccia, Maldon salt-flecked cashew butter and a ‘chef’s treat’ added to the deal. A mushroom and truffle arancino is the pick of a trio of snacks that may be beige in colour but are anything but in their umami boldness. Follow with a snappy cheese sablé that delivers sweetness, savouriness, sharpness and crunch in its winning combination of goat’s curd, roast beetroot and walnuts (whole and transformed into ketchup). Chalkstream trout tartare is a lively standout, the earthiness of kohlrabi and richness of the fish invigorated by ponzu, showers of lime, radish and herb aïoli – a bright few spoonfuls.

And so lunch assuredly continues. Exceptional Deersbrook Farm pork needs just the lightest of touches, with the loin nudging up against home-cured glazed bacon, slow-cooked crisped shoulder and white pudding, plus a sparky swirl of devilled sauce and puréed apple bringing everything together. Finish with strawberries, combined simply with meringue and a zippy lemon sorbet.

Wines from Vino Vero just down the road are chosen with a similar ethos to the food; at the weekend they are paired in an excellent-value four-glass ‘wine experience’ or you can drink by the glass from £8.50.

The intersection of Fourth Avenue and Church Road provides the distinctly American-sounding name of this popular wine shop and eatery opposite the old Hove Town Hall. With its bottle-stacked shelves and counter seating, the whole place feels assiduously dedicated to the business of serious (but fun) eating and drinking, and while the ethos of mixing and matching plates has effectively evolved backwards (as elsewhere) into the considerably more antiquated mode of a smaller plate followed by a larger one, the net is still flung wide for inspiration. Pickling and preserving are enthusiastically favoured. Cured chalkstream trout with saffron-pickled endive in blackcurrant-leaf oil might compete with aubergine miso in katsu with pickled carrots or prosciutto di Parma with flat peach panzanella and black garlic glaze. Among the larger possibilities may be rump of Herdwick hogget with goat's curd in lamb and basil dressing, or sea bass offset with a torrent of assertive flavours from seaweed gnocchi, sorrel and fermented blueberries. And with a whole world of appetising nibbles ranging from whipped cod's roe to houmous with preserved lemon, zaatar and lavosh crackers, no appetite need go unsatiated. Just make sure to leave room for the banana parfait, fennel-pollen panna cotta or affogato with a tot of Pedro Ximénez. If you enjoyed the glass or two of wine you tried with the food, buy a bottle to take home. The stylistically arranged list has been chosen with an authoritative nose and palate. Small glasses start at £7, half-bottle measures at £18.

It’s been almost a decade since Freckled Angel descended from its celestial perch to Menai Bridge, and indeed only two years since it transfigured into its new premises on Dale Street (whose lower storey looks like a Scandinavian sauna, while its upper level is more redolent of a Methodist chapel). Inside, the dining room is a bright and breezy affair, with wooden floors, angelic motifs and big windows letting in plenty of marine light from the Straits. It provides a suitably unpretentious stage for the small-plates dining that has proved such a hit with both locals and holidaymakers fresh from the mainland.

Chef Mike Jones magpie-picks inspiration from across the globe, although there's also a proud Welshness about signature dishes such as twice-baked Perl Las soufflé offset with balsamic grapes – an ‘absolute favourite’, according to customers. The menu also has a strong Asian bias, so you might also find the likes of Korean fried tofu, soy-cured confit salmon with celeriac and kimchi ketchup or perhaps confit duck leg with satay sauce and red cabbage.

Desserts could offer coconut panna cotta with roast pineapple or dark chocolate ganache cake dressed up with banana, miso and peanuts – though patriots might prefer to go for the Welsh cheeseboard instead. Wine prices start below £30 and, like everything else at Freckled Angel, represent good value.

A gem of a village pub, owned and run by Will Orrock and his wife Cassidy Hughes, where there’s more than a passing nod to the Fergus Henderson (St John) school of cookery. Chef Adam Spicer's menu is brisk – beautiful ingredients are left relatively unadorned, and flavours are full. What a vol-au-vent lacks in flighty height it makes up for in crispness and the springtime deliciousness of foraged morels and wild garlic, and how good to see tenderly seared cuttlefish among the starters, alongside a silken ink-black mayonnaise studded with cod's roe – don't forget to save some of the excellent house bread for mayo-scooping purposes.

A terrine of brawn and ‘blood cake’ is as muscular as its name suggests, but alongside the heft is deft culinary balance from the crunchy bite of radishes and some zippy piccalilli. As for seafood, expect a few luxuries. The delicate flavour of lobster is somewhat swamped by its coronation sauce, although a turbot main course is memorably good. Served with fat mussels, the saline pep of monk’s beard and a gently spiced mouclade sauce, it’s a dish to hurry back for. Local produce stars throughout – from vegetables and leaves courtesy of nearby organic Maple Farm to chocolate from Pump Street or the St Jude cow’s curd served alongside a caramel tart. This is ‘proper cooking,’ notes one reporter.

The Greyhound is also a proper boozer, welcoming drinkers for honest sustenance. Do check out the great-value bar snacks – say Welsh rarebit or a ploughman’s including homemade pork pie and house pickles. Perfect with a pint, or a glass from a wine list which is fit for every occasion – be it a classy Burgundy (a 2021 Saint-Aubin 1er cru ‘Clos du Meix’ from family-owned Domaine Hubert Lamy, perhaps), a steely Austrian Riesling from the Arndorfer winery or a simple lunchtime sip from the Languedoc.

‘Perfect size. Perfect price. Perfectly cooked.' This is what is meant by a local restaurant: a convivial, friendly, family-run place that has a good regular following and where value for money is a big plus. Lee and Lucy Murray’s no-fills, light-filled corner tapas bar – all white walls, blond wood and big windows – fits the Spanish ethos very well. The atmosphere is laid-back, buzzy and sociable, staff are enthusiastic and the offer is bolstered by chalked-up daily specials and a wine of the month. Working out of a tiny kitchen shoehorned in at the back, Shane Martin offers a regularly changing menu where just about every dish begs to be ordered. There’s a seasonal slant to the likes of grilled peach with goat’s curd, anchovy and basil, but menu staples such as jamón Ibérico, Galician octopus salad, chicken thighs with romesco sauce, and ‘next level’ grilled tiger prawns with chilli and garlic have many fans – in fact we got 'dish envy' as the next table’s Duroc pork ribs with membrillo glaze was delivered. If you don’t think you need dessert, think again – everyone praises the Basque cheesecake. Reasonable prices extend to the stash of sherries and mainly Spanish wines.

An enterprising local resource par excellence, this ‘really cool’ spot spreads itself like proved dough over two floors of a Grade II-listed building on thriving Trinity Square. The adjoining Hearth Bakery (open Thu-Sun) is great for daytime sustenance (as well as bread), while the first-floor restaurant is in the hands of Ryan Telford, who has stints with big-name chefs including Bruce Poole and Phil Howard under his belt. Each area of the place has its own allurements: perhaps partake of an orange espresso Martini before beginning your ascent.

The format of small plates preceding larger ones may be par for the course, although the smaller items are quite substantial in themselves. Roasted bone marrow with sourdough, parsley and shallot salad has a familiar nose-to-tail ring about it, while Szechuan honey-fried chicken with roasted sesame seeds and smacked cucumber takes its cue from the global larder. If you've paced yourself sufficiently, move on to BBQ salmon with dashi, sea herbs and pickled apple, grilled pork pluma with fennel, choucroute, chanterelles and mustard velouté or a mixed grill for two (open-fire cooking is high on the agenda here).

On Sundays, there are roasts to beat the band (including fish and veggie options), prior to seasonal fruit crumbles, chocolate fudge cake or sticky toffee pudding with bourbon-laced toffee sauce and custard. The good-hearted friendliness of the impressively knowledgeable staff is commended by one and all (‘some of the waitresses are pure sunshine,’ noted one regular). Slates of tangy whites and savoury reds by the glass lead off a wine list that inspires confidence, and bespoke pairings also receive a big thumbs-up.

With the North York Moors unrolling before you like a full-scale map beyond the windows of this converted farmhouse and smithy,  you won't lack for visual ravishment. The village of Goathland will seem topographically familiar from its service as the hamlet in ITV's Heartbeat and the Homestead plays its part too, its low-ceilinged dining areas done in unshowy country style. Chef Peter Neville and his family have put down local roots here, drawing in meat from moorland farmers, fish from nearby Whitby, and a plethora of produce from their own kitchen gardens. Little craft events and guided walks add to the sense that you have dropped in on friends who have put rather more effort into planning your visit than you are used to. The cooking applies modern techniques and combinations to sterling ingredients, beginning perhaps with a faggot of veal cheek and calf's liver on truffled soubise cream, or soused red mullet with baby violet artichoke in bouillabaisse. Main-course meat could be Yorkshire wagyu with confit mushrooms, duck liver parfait and a salad of Yorkshire Blue and watercress – if the fish of the day, served with crab salad and lovage-buttered peas doesn't tempt. Richly enveloping desserts might encompass caramelised lemon tart and local honey ice cream or chocolate and cherry biscuit with candied almonds and crème fraîche. Begin with an elderflower and English fizz cocktail for a true taste of patriotic pastoral. True to its name, Homestead also sports a self-contained holiday cottage for those who want to linger a while.

Llansteffan sits on the blue-green Tywi estuary, its ascending streets of pretty houses topped by a magnificent castle. Set at the upper end of the village, close to the church, the Inn at the Sticks covers many bases: bedrooms and a deli/wine bar in addition to the main pub/restaurant space. The setting is rustic in a stylish, uncluttered way, with quarry tiles and wood floors, exposed beams, brickwork and a couple of chunky wood burners.

‘Welsh sharing plates’ describes the menu (expect beef, lamb, cockles, faggots and excellent cheeses), although you might also encounter Asian sticky pork with pak choi, sesame seeds and crispy noodles, or sweet, gleaming Vichy carrots teamed with the breezy, lemony freshness of whipped feta and topped with almond and chilli crumb, basil gel and a drizzle of honey.

Astonishing flavours, colour and verve take this place far beyond normal pub fare although it never stints on the classics. The beef, beer and Perl Las blue cheese pie is on-point in every department, delivering a bounty of big, tender chunks of meat, a deep and dark savoury gravy, and a perfectly risen puff-pastry top. Other standout dishes include cockle popcorn – light-as-air batter, with a drizzle of homemade chilli vinegar and a punchy little pot of aïoli for dipping.

The bar stays high for desserts ranging from a beguilingly soft and gooey 'bara brith' sticky toffee pudding set on a butterscotch and tea sauce to a Welsh coffee panna cotta sporting a candied walnut crumb and a sleek caramel sauce. To drink, there’s an excellent choice of wines as well as beers.

‘Recommend this to everyone in town.' Thus speaks one Margate local, giving thanks for the gift of this simple izakaya-style Japanese restaurant located a brisk walk from the Old Town on increasingly food-centred Northdown Road. Obviously popular, it nourishes regulars (and irregulars) with a frequently changing menu of colourful, bracingly fresh and zippy food (mostly locally sourced), shot through with inventive Japanese and north-east Asian flavours. 

Kate de Syllas trained at the Tokyo Sushi Academy and can be seen at work in the simple open galley kitchen at the back of a light-filled dining room, which is laid out in an all-purpose, no-frills style. Relaxed vibes are a given, service is informed and friendly, and it’s all good value. Everything is light and delicious, from a delicate steamed bao bun sando filled with crab and asparagus, slaw and pickled ginger to okonomiyaki topped, perhaps, with kimchi and smoked cheese, spicy mayo and crispy onion.

The kitchen also serves up reworked traditional staples such as soba noodles tangled with local crab, seaweed and ponzu dressing (served cold), or curry udon with katsu chicken and vegetables. Finish with matcha whipped cheesecake, ginger crumb and toasted coconut. The concise drinks list promises sake and a few well-chosen, kindly priced wines by the glass and bottle.

One could easily walk past Origin Social thinking it was just another café/bar on an anonymous strip with views of passing traffic and a Kwik Fit garage – in fact it is rather exceptional. With its long bar, substantial wine and cocktail list and a changing roster of local ales from the likes of Brew York, the Kirkstall Brewery and Knaresborough’s Turning Point Brew Co, it does feel more like a pub than restaurant but the food for such an unassuming place is surprising.

A parade of globally inspired small plates brings imaginative and thoughtfully cooked dishes along the lines of king scallops served on the shell in a buttery, lime and 'nduja dressing, or roast watermelon with feta, walnut and pickled shallots dressed with balsamic and honey. The menu is divided into 'sea', 'meat' and 'vegetables', with a fair selection of vegan and gluten-free options including, say, BBQ tenderstem broccoli with tahini dressing, pomegranate, pistachio and dukkah.

'Three plates for £20' is the best-selling deal, although we opted to splash out on some pricier items including baked salmon and Shetland mussels in a Thai green curry sauce (the salmon itself, accurately cooked, would have been generous enough to stand as a main course on its own). Equally well judged was the Mexican-spiced Scotch egg with a perfectly timed soft yolk wrapped in good-quality sausagemeat on a spicy barbecue sauce. Origin certainly lives up to its 'Social' tag and it's great fun, thanks to some remarkable talent in the kitchen, terrific value and knowledgeable service from a young team.

*The restaurant closed permanently on 17 April 2026 and will be relocating to The Old Point House in Angle on the Pembrokeshire coast.*

A 'field to fork' farmstead restaurant is always a bracing proposition, and this one, deep in the Pembrokeshire wilds is no exception. Whatever beaten track there might be hereabouts (actually the B4320 near Hundleton), they're off it. It's a testament to the success of the formula that somewhere so remote can still receive as many nominations as it does for our Best Local Restaurant awards, with the super-friendly, helpful and enthusiastic staff receiving lots of plaudits.

You eat in the former milking parlour, perhaps snuggled into one of the old stalls, beneath clumps of pampas hanging from the rafters, with an open kitchen at one end generating a steady stream of ingenious and heterogeneous plates from Michelle Evans' fertile culinary imagination.The seasonal set menu is a rolling feast that changes every day depending on supplies from the farm and beyond, but the following should give a clue to the kind of food on offer: asparagus with crab, pickled chilli, lemon and dill, with the brown meat folded through a silky mayonnaise; baked whole bream with romesco; glossy, golden-crusted mutton, leek and smoked Snowdonia cheese pie served with garden kale and Café de Paris butter. Veggie options are always intriguing too – perhaps wild mushroom and truffle arancini or BBQ hispi cabbage lathered in umami-rich miso butter with some chilli heat and soothing, creamy aïoli.

Dessert could bring chocolate mousse or cherry and tahini ice cream; otherwise, opt for a plate of Welsh cheeses. There might also be honey madeleines by the half dozen, too. 'Even the drinks are in season,' gasped one reporter, wholly appreciative of a rhubarbed-up version of pisco sour – although there are some 'fantastic natural wines from a young importer,' too.

A little slice of French bonhomie in north Oxford, Pompette is not only a godsend for Summertown locals, but also draws in diners who are prepared to undertake a long trip to sample its wares. With its walls emblazoned with artwork, a gorgeous summertime terrace and professional but personable staff, no wonder it is reckoned to be ‘a real gem’. And that’s before we get to the food. Chef/co-owner Pascal Wiedemann spent 14 years shaking the pans in big-name London kitchens (from Racine and Terroirs to Six Portland Road), before bringing his vision of bourgeois French cuisine to the city of dreaming spires. 

His menu is entrenched in the classics (with the odd European detour) and everything is crafted with ‘care, passion and precision’. Lyonnaise ‘cervelle de canut’ cheese dip, soupe de poissons, chalk stream trout with horseradish beurre blanc and onglet steaks share the billing with houmous, sumac and flatbread, cavatelli with datterini tomatoes and pecorino or charred cauliflower with pops of pomegranate and pistachio. French farmhouse cheeses, île flottante, Basque cheesecake and canelés de Bordeaux with salted rum caramel (Friday and Saturday nights only) round off a simple but satisfying offer. 

Alternatively, drop by for authentic French saucisse frites on Tuesday, poulet frites on Wednesday or steak frites on Thursday night, if you prefer; they even do a proper petit-déjeuner from 10am as well as a regular apero hour (5-6pm, Tue-Sat). Pompette is the charming French word for tipsy, so we do need to mention the libations: Ricard, Lillet Blanc, Picon Bière and Normandy cider all get a look-in alongside a list of patriotically French wines – including a big selection from Alsace (the owner’s homeland).

If it's worth finding a perfectly pristine English village – and it always is – it's also worth hoping that the local pub will be a forward-thinking ancient inn serving adventurous modern British food. Welcome to the Barrington Boar, located somewhere between Taunton and Yeovil. A slate-floored bar opens onto a crimson-walled dining room with a stone-built fireplace, and there's a clutch of guest rooms where the old skittle alley once was.

Alasdair Clifford and Victoria Collins have made the place a haven of West Country hospitality, with Alasdair's kitchen as its nerve centre and a culinary repertoire built around supremely confident, exquisitely presented regional cooking. 'Real innovation without silliness,' is how one reader summarised the style, having in mind such dishes as a starter of barbecued lamb shoulder glazed in rose harissa with smoked aubergine and pistachio dukkah – or, perhaps, a Japanese-inspired tartare of kelp-cured trout with soy and rhubarb ponzu, adorned with shiso and winter radish.

Wye Valley asparagus in season forms the centrepiece of a veggie main with confit new potatoes, baby turnips and sprouting broccoli in herb vinaigrette, while fish could be roast cod with smoked cod croquettes and spring cabbage in a creamy white wine velouté. Gold-standard meats take in everything from 50-day aged Devon Red sirloin, its accoutrements including a mushroom stuffed with bone marrow and parsley butter, to local lamb rump with its caramelised sweetbreads.

Finish with Yorkshire rhubarb cheesecake and matching sorbet, or a picture-perfect pear frangipane tart with clotted cream. A luscious cocktail offering includes a 'Dam-Good Negroni' made with damson gin (our arm is duly twisted), while the expertly curated wine list opens with a comprehensive suite of selections in two glass sizes and half-litre carafes.

Is there anything more nourishing to the soul than fresh fish and seafood cookery? With its prime materials gathered from the day-boats less than 40 metres away from the front door, the Dory Bistro ensures that Pittenweem is amply supplied with evidence of its allure. Ruth Robinson's kitchen teems with local lobsters, crabs and langoustines, as well as locally landed fish – not to mention game from estates in Fife – and there is an art gallery to peruse too while you work up an appetite.

The striking enthusiasm of readers' reports is powerful testimony to the success of the formula. A couple who stuck to the blackboard specials were treated to sweet-cured halibut with radish, salad leaves and garlic bread, before joining forces to tackle a whopping Dover sole in caper butter, served with fennel and romanesco. The menu makes all kinds of classic moves too, from an opening gambit of Cullen skink, garnished with a crisp ball of smoked haddock and salmon keta, to richly sustaining pasta such as tagliatelle replete with clams, mussels and lardons in white wine, garlic and cream.

Visitors also applaud the restaurant's friendly atmosphere, and it's worth saving space for desserts that might be as simple as a gingery spin on rhubarb and custard, or as creatively stunning as layered ice cream of miso and vanilla with miso pearls and a caramel tuile. On-trend varietal whites from Pecorino, Picpoul, Verdejo and Grüner Veltliner furnish plenty of fish-friendly choice.

A 20-year tenure at the Oxford Arms in Kirtlington earned Bryn and Oxana Jones a strong pedigree that stood them in good stead when they relocated to Scotland in 2022. It also gave them the opportunity to sensitively refresh and expand this historic coaching inn on the scenic, remote and – at times – dramatic road across the Borders between Moffat and Selkirk.

The Gordon Arms is a genuine family affair – Bryn in the kitchen, Oxana front of house – and guests are drawn into the comforting solidity of well-banked fires, convivial chat and a sense of respite and restoration from travel. Seasonality, sustainability and local sourcing are evident across the carte and monthly changing five-course tasting menu – and there's a keen eye for value, too. You’re welcome to have just one dish or three kindly priced courses.

Expect carefully prepared, rustic food from a chef who understands the quality of his raw materials and is content to let them shine. A satisfyingly hearty game terrine reflects the Borders location, embracing whatever came out of the gamekeeper’s bag that day, simply complemented by homemade plum chutney and sourdough. Venison salami from the Yarrow Valley, meanwhile, is partnered by unapologetically chunky celeriac rémoulade.

Lamb loin ‘melting in the mouth and tasting divine’ has all the flavour you’d expect from a life on the surrounding heather-clad hills, while a roseate venison Wellington is the perfect exemplar of that dish. For dessert, look for Oxana’s deft touch in a flourless chocolate and hazelnut torte alongside Armagnac prunes or classic orchard-based fruit desserts from the garden. The wine list is well-focused, with some interesting and affordable options as well as a decent selection by the glass or carafe.

‘A real asset to Swansea,' this local favourite occupies one end of a former grain store overlooking the steely waters of Prince of Wales Dock on the city's regenerated waterfront. Inside, original features such as exposed brickwork, cement, tiles and some serious-looking riveted metal pillars are offset by bright and airy design flourishes, a theatrical open kitchen along one wall, counter seating and some cool, well-spaced modernist furniture – all overseen by a meticulous front of house team. Executive chef/co-owner Jonathan Woolway is a Swansea boy who decamped to London for a long stint at Fergus Henderson’s St John before returning to his hometown. 

The menu is a hymn to top-notch Welsh ingredients, from Pembrokeshire crab and lobster to Gower asparagus and new season's lamb. At times, the food is deceptively simple, but beneath the breezy presentation, individual elements are clearly carefully considered and the cooking is precise. The influence of St John is evident in the stonking Welsh rarebit (glossy, peppery and punchy) and in nose-to-tail ideas such as grilled ox heart or pork rissoles with fried egg and brown sauce. Elsewhere, comfortably familiar pies and chops appear alongside the less familiar options. Seafood is an undoubted strength – from ever-present cockle croquettes and potted crab to wild Gower sea bass with tomato, agretti and olive-oil mayo. 

This is generous, big-hearted food, but do leave room for dessert: fruity bara brith with heritage Teifi cheese, perhaps, or chocolate pavé with cherries and crème fraîche. Round off with some Welsh cakes and a shot of Welsh single-grain Dà Mhìle whisky. The wine list isn't exhaustive but its reach is expansive, with bottles for most pockets and tastes.

It may be small, with just four tables and a counter across the window of an unprepossessing building, but the Small Canteen has a big heart. ‘A warm welcome is always on the cards,’ notes one regular. The concise menu is squashed and smudged onto a blackboard in Sam Betts’ ever-so-slightly chaotic ship, which is run with immense verve and generosity.

Start with good chewy bread plus dips of mayo, salsa verde and romesco. After that, a glistening slab of confit chicken terrine comes with pickled prunes, baked gnocchi are richly endowed with Gorgonzola, kale and hazelnuts, pork cutlet is served with chard and squash, and skate wing gets the traditional treatment with brown butter, capers, shrimps and tenderstem broccoli. Everything here is rich, abundant and delicious. It seems that the chef is unfamiliar with the concept of portion control: starters are the size of a main course and mains are too good to refuse.

Tables are so closely packed you get to know your neighbours, who may also provide good reports of the saffron, raisin and apple cake with honey and mascarpone ice cream or a fabulous three-parter involving chocolate mousse, blackcurrant sorbet and honeycomb. We don’t know how Betts manages to pull off such an ‘adorably priced’ menu, but we are very glad he does – especially when the blackboard also lists cocktails, juices and organic lemonade. Organic wines come in at £7 for a 500ml carafe of Tempranillo or Odes à la Gascogne, and there are regional craft beers too, with names like Redcastle Crusader, First Chop and Love Lane Baltic.

The buzzy, anticipatory atmosphere among diners at this polished magnet for Berkshire’s food-lovers is contagious. Lucratively located near the M4, A34 and A4, the Woodspeen nevertheless occupies a quiet patch of verdant countryside and comes complete with a cookery school. In 2014, it was converted from a pub – though you’d hardly realise this when you're reclining on a smart grey banquette in the stylish modern dining room to the rear, with its soaring wooden ceiling (topped by a skylight), windows looking onto the garden and full-length open-view kitchen. The food continues to attract heaps of plaudits from a multitude of fans – and it's easy to see why. Roast halibut with crispy chicken-skin crumb, Bollinger and apple purée indicates the level of ambition to be found here, while beef Wellington for two is a speciality – although even the good-value set menu displays culinary flair and a feel for local ingredients (many from the restaurant’s kitchen garden). In May, for example, you might begin with the most delicate Parmesan arancino (crisp outside, creamy within) surrounded by a silky-smooth wild garlic and pea soup, the flavour of both ingredients skilfully balanced. Main courses are equally accomplished, a serving of succulent cured salmon, say, on crushed Jersey Royals, the whole dish elevated by a boldly flavoured fish broth and a modest sprig of purple sprouting broccoli in peak condition. After that, rhubarb pavlova makes a refreshing finale, with its light chewy meringue and delicately cooked cubes of rhubarb topped with blood-orange sorbet. Service attracts special comment from readers (‘exemplary’; ‘superb’; ‘fantastic and attentive without being overbearing’), and we found the knowledge, enthusiasm and expertise hard to fault. Second helpings of the first-rate spongy sourdough bread, served with whipped butter and a little pot of moreish black olive ‘houmous’ were provided without charge, once our appreciation had been noted. A studious, young sommelier takes his duties seriously, and the wide-ranging list is full of classy offerings – even a glass of entry-level Viognier comes bursting with juicy fruitiness. Cocktails, served in the front bar or out on the terrace, are yet another forte at this impressive set-up.