Food Leigh on Sea
Leigh-on-Sea, Essex
Entry
‘Classy and cool’; ‘just great food’; 'original, packed full of flavour, presented with care’ – just some of the praise heaped on John Lawson's singular restaurant. This welcoming, intimate venue (all exposed brick, subtle lighting and muted colours) has a loyal local following, and it was positively bubbling with chat between couples, friends and families on our lunchtime visit. The menus are built around nourishment and health, using mainly organic ingredients but without being preachy or losing sight of deliciousness. There’s a brisk, keenly priced 'menu du jour', but linger over four courses if you can because it's cracking value – especially with snacks, gluten-free focaccia, Maldon salt-flecked cashew butter and a ‘chef’s treat’ added to the deal. A mushroom and truffle arancino is the pick of a trio of snacks that may be beige in colour but are anything but in their umami boldness. Follow with a snappy cheese sablé that delivers sweetness, savouriness, sharpness and crunch in its winning combination of goat’s curd, roast beetroot and walnuts (whole and transformed into ketchup). Chalkstream trout tartare is a lively standout, the earthiness of kohlrabi and richness of the fish invigorated by ponzu, showers of lime, radish and herb aïoli – a bright few spoonfuls. And so lunch assuredly continues. Exceptional Deersbrook Farm pork needs just the lightest of touches, with the loin nudging up against home-cured glazed bacon, slow-cooked crisped shoulder and white pudding, plus a sparky swirl of devilled sauce and puréed apple bringing everything together. Finish with strawberries, combined simply with meringue and a zippy lemon sorbet. Wines from Vino Vero just down the road are chosen with a similar ethos to the food; at the weekend they are paired in an excellent-value four-glass ‘wine experience’ or you can drink by the glass from £8.50.
