Edie’s

Above Carlyon Bay, at one end of a parade of shops and cafés behind an area of off-road parking, there is more culinary glamour to Edie's than might first appear. Co-owner and chef Nigel Brown has done stints at Le Manoir aux Quat'Saisons and at the late Bill Granger's Sydney restaurant. Inside, the place feels like a true neighbourhood spot, not least because it is run with such sympathetic charm.

Contemporary brasserie cooking is the name of the game, with a good-value fixed-price menu supplementing an appreciably adventurous carte. First off might be a dazzling salad of Isle of Wight tomatoes with pickled shallots, pangrattato, whipped feta and basil oil, an energising blaze of colour. Much is made of the starter soufflés, perhaps Comté cheese with spinach and wild mushroom fricassée. Soft gnudi make a satisfying lunchtime main, accompanied by a riot of spring veg in lemon butter with crumbled sourdough croûtes adding crunch, while fish dishes are all you might expect for the location – maybe halibut with brown shrimps and saffron potatoes in curry sauce. Fillet steaks with hand-cut chips, watercress and Café de Paris butter will be a dead cert for a large proportion of the clientele.

Finish with elderflower panna cotta, yoghurt sorbet and lemon curd or – if you missed its savoury cousin earlier on – a raspberry soufflé with rum anglaise and vanilla ice cream. The short, helpfully annotated wine list has reasonable mark-ups, with glasses from £5.25.