The Gordon Arms

A 20-year tenure at the Oxford Arms in Kirtlington earned Bryn and Oxana Jones a strong pedigree that stood them in good stead when they relocated to Scotland in 2022. It also gave them the opportunity to sensitively refresh and expand this historic coaching inn on the scenic, remote and – at times – dramatic road across the Borders between Moffat and Selkirk.

The Gordon Arms is a genuine family affair – Bryn in the kitchen, Oxana front of house – and guests are drawn into the comforting solidity of well-banked fires, convivial chat and a sense of respite and restoration from travel. Seasonality, sustainability and local sourcing are evident across the carte and monthly changing five-course tasting menu – and there's a keen eye for value, too. You’re welcome to have just one dish or three kindly priced courses.

Expect carefully prepared, rustic food from a chef who understands the quality of his raw materials and is content to let them shine. A satisfyingly hearty game terrine reflects the Borders location, embracing whatever came out of the gamekeeper’s bag that day, simply complemented by homemade plum chutney and sourdough. Venison salami from the Yarrow Valley, meanwhile, is partnered by unapologetically chunky celeriac rémoulade.

Lamb loin ‘melting in the mouth and tasting divine’ has all the flavour you’d expect from a life on the surrounding heather-clad hills, while a roseate venison Wellington is the perfect exemplar of that dish. For dessert, look for Oxana’s deft touch in a flourless chocolate and hazelnut torte alongside Armagnac prunes or classic orchard-based fruit desserts from the garden. The wine list is well-focused, with some interesting and affordable options as well as a decent selection by the glass or carafe.