Covino
Chester, Cheshire
On a cold, dismal day, a blackboard outside the unassuming frontage of this small wine bar-cum-restaurant (just) within Chester's Roman walls invited shoppers to raise their damp spirits with drink, food, warmth and gossip. The latter, of course, is irresistible (and we were not disappointed). The low-key interior is largely filled by the high counter and open kitchen. Stool seating and tiny tables can feel cramped (or intimate, depending on your mood) but the minimalist decor, with low-hanging glass light fittings and white tiles, is easy and unchallenging while the good-humoured welcome is as relaxed as the atmosphere. Chef George Prole runs the kitchen single-handed and it’s a tribute to his considerable talent, precise planning and instinctive good judgement that he can deliver daily changing dishes of such subtle sophistication. His house sourdough, malty and tangy, is essential for mopping up an exquisitely delicate dish of braised cod cheeks with fennel and fava beans. Sourcing is key, flavours clean and combinations unfussy, with an element of surprise such as beef fat fudge. There is excellent vegetarian choice – a caramelised roast Boston marrow squash judiciously flavoured with sage in a smooth almond crema, for example. Seasonality is assumed – our December menu included beetroot and celeriac with guinea fowl, steamed pollock with smoked fish broth and BBQ kale, ox cheek with braised red cabbage and apple, plus desserts such as honey panna cotta and plums. Wines are intriguing, well-chosen and wide-ranging, with a particularly interesting choice of German and Austrian bottles.
Dining Information:
Private dining room, Counter seating, Dog friendly, Credit card required
118 Northgate Street, Chester, Cheshire CH1 2HT
01244 347727
