Hearth

An enterprising local resource par excellence, this ‘really cool’ spot spreads itself like proved dough over two floors of a Grade II-listed building on thriving Trinity Square. The adjoining Hearth Bakery (open Thu-Sun) is great for daytime sustenance (as well as bread), while the first-floor restaurant is in the hands of Ryan Telford, who has stints with big-name chefs including Bruce Poole and Phil Howard under his belt. Each area of the place has its own allurements: perhaps partake of an orange espresso Martini before beginning your ascent.

The format of small plates preceding larger ones may be par for the course, although the smaller items are quite substantial in themselves. Roasted bone marrow with sourdough, parsley and shallot salad has a familiar nose-to-tail ring about it, while Szechuan honey-fried chicken with roasted sesame seeds and smacked cucumber takes its cue from the global larder. If you've paced yourself sufficiently, move on to BBQ salmon with dashi, sea herbs and pickled apple, grilled pork pluma with fennel, choucroute, chanterelles and mustard velouté or a mixed grill for two (open-fire cooking is high on the agenda here).

On Sundays, there are roasts to beat the band (including fish and veggie options), prior to seasonal fruit crumbles, chocolate fudge cake or sticky toffee pudding with bourbon-laced toffee sauce and custard. The good-hearted friendliness of the impressively knowledgeable staff is commended by one and all (‘some of the waitresses are pure sunshine,’ noted one regular). Slates of tangy whites and savoury reds by the glass lead off a wine list that inspires confidence, and bespoke pairings also receive a big thumbs-up.