When I moved to The North five years ago, the first thing I was relieved to note was the abundance of great sandwiches up here. While my hometown of Sheffield is overflowing with them, it’s the Manchester scene’s that’s looking particularly healthy (and the fillings really unhealthy). It’s hardly a new phenomenon – just look at the love for Rustica, a determinedly un-fancy Northern Quarter caff that’s been a favourite for 25 years and won Best Sandwich at the Manchester Food and Drink Awards 2003 – but the last five years have seen the MCR sarnie scene blossom. Herewith are the major players that need to be on your list. Go hungry and armed with a fierce appetite.
Bada Bing was dreamt up in lockdown (suddenly the ‘Sopranos’ theme makes complete sense) and was an instant hit. The sort of ginormous, stuffed-full subs that you could previously only get from New York bodegas were just the food that 2021 Manchester was hankering after. After several residencies they took some time off before finally opening their permanent home in the Northern Quarter in 2024. Their signature, ‘The Bing’, is so generous with its meat (four kinds, including the cured pork gangsters call ‘gabagool’ but we know as coppa) that the hoagie's cross section reveals more meat than bread. Hot options are mega, too – the Calabrian Caesar, a cult classic – and might the merch be even better than the food? Maybe.
Only a block away, Ad Maiora is another couple-owned, lockdown-born success story, originally run entirely from Daniela Steri and Enrico Pinn’s Ancoats flat. In contrast to the unkempt section of Tib Street it calls home, their shop is an absolute haven, not least because the whole place smells overwhelmingly of truffle oil. Their USP is their schiacciata bread – a thinner, crispier version of focaccia – that is sturdy enough to support absolutely loads of fillings but still light enough that you can at least attempt to finish it. Because the ingredients are top quality Italian imports you’re safe in their hands, so be led by the specials. How about Man City striker Erling Haaland’s favourite combo: parma ham, burrata, pesto, truffle oil, sun-dried tomatoes, pistachio and rocket?
While an in-person trip to Ad Maiora is always worth your lunch hour, I’d discourage actually visiting Fat Pat’s. While their subs are worthy of a wait in an insalubrious, bin-strewn back passage, arranging a delivery is a better option. Either way, you’ll forget anything that preceded your first bite into their Philly cheesesteak, a sloppy monster so big your arteries will quake at the sight of it. Vegetarians can get involved too; the eggplant muffuletta is a triumphant bundle of greasily crispy aubergine slices, punchy pesto, marinated veg, melted cheese and fresh rocket. And honestly big enough to be lunch for two. Fair play to Pat, I’d get fat too if I had these sandwiches on tap.
Also a takeaway vibe – although there are tables available if required – is Rack, a Stockport-born sandwich specialist. Their menu majors in creative twists on classic fillings, held in place by the softest white sliced bread. Vegans and veggies are well catered for here (it’s not often you find a proper vegan reuben) and the samosa chaat is a crunchy, fragrant handful of joy. Their Arndale Market kitchen is the only stand with a queue at 11am on a Thursday.
But sandwiches aren’t always grab and go. When there’s time to let them take centre stage, head to the fantastic Pollen Bakery (Ancoats or Kampus, just near Piccadilly) for a sit down with their chicken, bacon and avocado sandwich, featuring a very special smoked onion mayo. And consider making a date with Gooey. The bakery made its name in NY-style cookies, but they’ve achieved legend status with their sandwiches, all made to order in perfectly square, cloud-soft slices of shokupan. If it’s an egg time of day, then egg you must; they arrive runny-yolked and tucked up in their wheat-based duvets. But if you think you can handle half a pound of homemade brisket, order the superlative reuben. The meat is soft, the Swiss cheese just-melted, the pickles zingy – all the sandwich priorities present and correct.
