Coin
Hebden Bridge, West Yorkshire
Entry
Hebden has gone hip while our backs were turned. It has always been a place of laid-back cafés and cake shops, but a boho wave has rippled through the stone-built town centre: one well-travelled visitor almost felt their compass-needle juddering towards Hoxton. That said, the town is still Yorkshire through and through, and here is a place that suits it to a nicety. It helps to pronounce Coin in the French manner, as it's on a corner site – a flatiron wedge of a building that was once (what else?) a bank. The decor also lends itself to that high-end vibe, with exposed brickwork, ironwork and plenty of space between the wooden tables. Young, casually dressed waiting staff are a delight, and efficiently on top of their game. An inspired sharing menu has plenty of modern brasserie energy, opening perhaps with a clutch of Carlingford oysters to be doused in the house chilli sauce (imagine a thicker Tabasco). Asparagus and sorrel splashed in PX vinegar is fresh and delicious, and we did enjoy the pin-sharp green sauce for all its liberally applied ubiquity – especially with the excellent charcuterie. Wandering into the more robust precincts of the menu, one might stumble on a juicy onglet with Garstang Blue in red wine, a better bet than the chicken-thigh version of cassoulet, which lacked seasoning and punch when we visited. By contrast, the puffed choux chips dusted in finely grated Parmesan should definitely not be passed up. Classic desserts major on set creams and custards. Fondue Sundays sound like fun, likewise the adventurous list of low-intervention wines.
Dining Information:
Counter seating, Wheelchair access, Family friendly, Dog friendly, Credit card required
Albert Street, Hebden Bridge, West Yorkshire HX7 8AH
01422 847707
