Fourth and Church
Hove, East Sussex
Entry
The intersection of Fourth Avenue and Church Road provides the distinctly American-sounding name of this popular wine shop and eatery opposite the old Hove Town Hall. With its bottle-stacked shelves and counter seating, the whole place feels assiduously dedicated to the business of serious (but fun) eating and drinking, and while the ethos of mixing and matching plates has effectively evolved backwards (as elsewhere) into the considerably more antiquated mode of a smaller plate followed by a larger one, the net is still flung wide for inspiration. Pickling and preserving are enthusiastically favoured. Cured chalkstream trout with saffron-pickled endive in blackcurrant-leaf oil might compete with aubergine miso in katsu with pickled carrots or prosciutto di Parma with flat peach panzanella and black garlic glaze. Among the larger possibilities may be rump of Herdwick hogget with goat's curd in lamb and basil dressing, or sea bass offset with a torrent of assertive flavours from seaweed gnocchi, sorrel and fermented blueberries. And with a whole world of appetising nibbles ranging from whipped cod's roe to houmous with preserved lemon, zaatar and lavosh crackers, no appetite need go unsatiated. Just make sure to leave room for the banana parfait, fennel-pollen panna cotta or affogato with a tot of Pedro Ximénez. If you enjoyed the glass or two of wine you tried with the food, buy a bottle to take home. The stylistically arranged list has been chosen with an authoritative nose and palate. Small glasses start at £7, half-bottle measures at £18.
Dining Information:
Private dining room, Separate bar, Counter seating, Credit card required
84 Church Road, Hove, East Sussex BN3 2EB
01273 724709
