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Coffee, to chase away the cobwebs
A day in Edinburgh should start with great coffee; there’s no excuse to waste time with the big chains. Williams & Johnson, Cairngorm, Little Fitzroy and Machina can all help with a luscious cup of the black stuff, depending on your locale. Newcomers Carter also pour their own wares at the roastery door, just a short stroll from Leith Walk.
MUST VISIT Carter, for a cup of their Bread & Butter blend
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Breakfast, to get the ball rolling
Singapore Coffee House serves up an excellent Scottish riff on murtabak alongside your kopi-o or chai, while Ardfern’s eclectic brunch menu features a top-end Full Scottish, kedgeree fritters and thoroughly bougie hash browns. Norah, Newhaven’s newest morning haunt, brings a little Irish flair to brunch on the waterfront, as well as the odd dinnertime event. For pastry, you’ll already know about Darcie Maher’s laminated endeavours at Lannan, but it’s certainly worth the queue. The Palmerston’s ovens crank out exceptional viennoiserie and loaves every day other than Monday, and Peregrine’s Tayto pastry is one of several delicious reasons to make the trip to their St Leonard’s bakery.
MUST VISIT Hop on the tram to Norah for sausage, egg and chips
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Lunch, to top up the tank
Chez Jules’ set lunch remains the yardstick against which all lunchtime bargains should be measured. For more wheaten wares, sandwiches from Polentoni, Alby’s, Toscano and Mootz are all on point, though Shrimpwreck’s crab monsieur at Browns of Leith is an absurdly decadent option. Over in the Southside, Tiger Dragon’s freshly made jian bing are ideal for a quick bite of Tianjin-style sustenance, Sabzi’s friendly, fabulous Punjabi plates can be found near the end of Ferry Road, and hidden deep in the St James Quarter, Flùr’s crisp, New York-style pizzas come with the blessing and guidance of slice supremo Anthony Falco.
MUST VISIT Tiger Dragon in St Leonard’s
Dinner, to relax into the evening
Catering for every credit card limit, the city boasts a litany of nighttime dining destinations. For the deeper pocketed, Stuart Ralston’s spectacular Lyla is his best work yet, while Timberyard continues to match beautiful food with a stunning room. Its sister spot, Montrose, delivers at a slightly lower price, with no compromise in the kitchen. Eleanore’s recent revamp has made it one of the best-value set menus in town, The Palmerston is still a go-to for pies, game and exceptional seafood, and in a jam-packed Chinese food scene, Clerk Street’s The Way Taste and Taste of Home are both equally praiseworthy.
MUST VISIT Lyla, for a blowout tasting experience
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Cocktails, to shake and stir
Start off with a walk along Queen Street from York Place – an ironic opener at Nightcap, a Bramble at Bramble, then on to Panda & Sons for a grand, speakeasy finale. A wander onwards to the Caley Bar rewards with a sumptuous, cosseting lounge and elegant drinks, and a final stroll up Lothian Road to Hey Palu will yield true Italian hospitality, yuzu margaritas and aperitivo nibbles. If you’ve only time to drink while you dine, Little Capo fits the brief – spritzes and exceptional pasta feature in a buzzing space that demands a seat at the bar.
MUST VISIT Hey Palu, for a Paper Plane with a paper plane (you’ll see)
Pubs, to settle in for the night
A stereotype perhaps, but in Edinburgh, you’re never far from a cosy drink. Few pubs in town are cosier than The Jolly Judge. If you’re looking to keep the wolf from the door, grab a mug of stovies with your scotch at Teuchters, dig into Palmerston-alumnus Hugh Brown’s menu over a pint at Nobles, or bag a whole rotisserie chicken at The Keelson. The Newbarns Taproom pours tank-fresh beers mere metres from the mash tun, and for a dram, The Diggers (aka Athletic Arms), The Belfry and The Tipsy Midgie are stocked with rarities that go far beyond the usual tourist pours.
MUST VISIT The Diggers, for a browse through the whisky bible
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Sweet treats, to fill in the gaps
To finish, cake and ice cream. This one’s simple: 101 Bakery for the former, and if you’re willing to queue for your scoops, Mary’s Milk Bar for the latter (and lots more besides). If not, Ferdi’s Flavour at either of Joelato’s outposts is the correct choice. If you find yourself in a gelato bind a little further south, then check out Ciccetta’s in Bruntsfield, where you’ll also find indulgent specials like their tiramisu latte, or a warming hot hazelnut chocolate.
MUST VISIT 101 Bakery, for a slice of something (anything!)
James owns Leith’s Electric Spirit Co and has spent over a decade living in the Scottish capital. When he’s not manning the still, he can usually be found eating and drinking his way around Edinburgh, Scotland and various other parts of the world.
