The Palmerston
Edinburgh, Lothians
At its heart, The Palmerston is not overly complex or conceptual. When it's busy, the rattle and hum of its dining room speaks to its nature – a bustling brasserie of a style that would be at home in any Western capital. Owners Lloyd Morse and James Snowdon met in London: the former's culinary CV includes Spring and the River Café, while the latter gained front-of-house experience in Fulham’s Harwood Arms. Their creation sits in a former bank near Haymarket station, surrounding diners with original marble, lofty ceilings and soaring Art Deco windows that pour honeyed light across the tables throughout the day. Menus are short, punchy and dependent on the availability of produce, while provenance is proudly woven through the courses, with breeds, locality and origin name-checked whenever possible. Look closely, and there is a love of Italian cooking at play. To kick off, a buttered round of waxy, chewy sourdough from the house bakery comes as standard – and without charge. Snacks may include fresh, crunchy radishes served with their tops and a funky, briny anchoïade for dredging, or a mound of crisp, vinegary pig’s skin, still-sizzling and blistered like bubble wrap. As a starter, marinated tomatoes, pistou and goat’s curd has wonderful balance, with the fruity, tart tomatoes and fresh, herbal dressing tempering the creamy, unctuous curd atop more of that glorious house bread, this time toasted. As for mains, expect meat – especially game in season – and a fondness for offal. A gloriously rich, slow-roast Tamworth pork loin comes with borlotti beans and black cabbage, bathed liberally in meaty cooking juices, while a mighty pie for two is crowned with a glossy, golden suet top and filled with sweet, earthy bales of crimson short rib and luxurious gravy. Continuing the sharing theme, a rum baba marries muffin-tops of airy sponge, a rich, syrupy hit of vanilla and dry fruit, and a pleasingly hearty whack of booze. Cocktails and Guinness feature on an eclectic drinks menu, with wines ranging in price from £20+ to three figures, and a particularly interesting range of sparkling options from small producers. The team on the floor know their stuff, and come across as a friendly crew, independently knowledgeable rather than simply well-briefed.
