The Shed

‘A real asset to Swansea,' this local favourite occupies one end of a former grain store overlooking the steely waters of Prince of Wales Dock on the city's regenerated waterfront. Inside, original features such as exposed brickwork, cement, tiles and some serious-looking riveted metal pillars are offset by bright and airy design flourishes, a theatrical open kitchen along one wall, counter seating and some cool, well-spaced modernist furniture – all overseen by a meticulous front of house team. Executive chef/co-owner Jonathan Woolway is a Swansea boy who decamped to London for a long stint at Fergus Henderson’s St John before returning to his hometown. 

The menu is a hymn to top-notch Welsh ingredients, from Pembrokeshire crab and lobster to Gower asparagus and new season's lamb. At times, the food is deceptively simple, but beneath the breezy presentation, individual elements are clearly carefully considered and the cooking is precise. The influence of St John is evident in the stonking Welsh rarebit (glossy, peppery and punchy) and in nose-to-tail ideas such as grilled ox heart or pork rissoles with fried egg and brown sauce. Elsewhere, comfortably familiar pies and chops appear alongside the less familiar options. Seafood is an undoubted strength – from ever-present cockle croquettes and potted crab to wild Gower sea bass with tomato, agretti and olive-oil mayo. 

This is generous, big-hearted food, but do leave room for dessert: fruity bara brith with heritage Teifi cheese, perhaps, or chocolate pavé with cherries and crème fraîche. Round off with some Welsh cakes and a shot of Welsh single-grain Dà Mhìle whisky. The wine list isn't exhaustive but its reach is expansive, with bottles for most pockets and tastes.