29 places to lunch for less during The Good Food Guide’s Restaurant Month 2026
Published 13 January 2026

Come to this retail village for a spot of ‘lifestyle’ shopping... and more besides. At its heart, is an attractive, welcoming space for breakfast, lunch and afternoon tea, so start the day with Turkish eggs or French toast, or drop in at lunchtime for the signature flammekueche (crisp Alsatian flatbreads). Simple small plates also punch above their weight – garlicky pork ribs or mackerel with a luxurious horseradish butter sauce, perhaps – while bigger dishes range from Thai-style moules-frites to caramelised red onion tart with poached pear and blue cheese salad. There’s much love for the generous Sunday roasts too. Opposite the restaurant, Amélie café and bake shop serves a tempting line in sweet and savoury nibbles to eat in or take home.

Next door to elder sibling the Little Chartroom, this all-day venue is the McCarrons' first foray into casual eating. The compact café, wine bar and bottle shop is open all day, offering a flexible menu that deals in everything from full breakfasts (with very good coffee) to brunchy kedgeree fritters with curry mayo and cured egg yolk or BBQ flatbread with ox tongue and romesco – though with the likes of crispy squid bun with mushroom XO and baby gem also on offer, it’s possible to assemble a three-course dinner from the various options. The bottle shop’s range is included in the wine list (add corkage to the shelf price), or you can sip local beers and cocktails.

It may have grown into a mini-chain with three venues plus an active brewery and taproom, but Mill Hill, Leeds is where it all started for Bundobust 10 years ago. The atmosphere here is still as electric as ever, with a menu that's vegetarian by happenstance rather than design and encourages sharing. Must-orders include okra fries seasoned with black salt and mango powder, paneer tikka, and gobi Manchurian – a sweet, spicy nod to the Indo-Chinese sub-genre. Twelve keg and two cask lines pour a selection of beers from the Bundobust Brewery in Manchester, plus collabs and guest brews, while the cocktail/mocktail list brings flavours from the kitchen to the bar with various house-made infusions.

It may be holed up on a charmless side street off Broadway Market, but this neighbourhood hangout is manna for Hackney’s cool young crowd. It helps that chef/owner Max Rocha has a famous father (Hong Kong-born fashion designer John Rocha), an inspirational Irish mother and a culinary CV that includes big hitters St John Bread & Wine and the River Café. Friends and family count for a great deal here (the titular Cecilia is Max's grandmother), and the menu is stuffed with inviting platefuls for regulars and first-timers alike – sandwiches, kippers or boiled eggs with Guinness bread for breakfast, say. Later on, visitors can expect a roll call of rustic dishes with Anglo-Irish overtones and some European influences, from pork and apricot terrine or calçots with romesco to skate with spinach, brown butter and capers or mussels with 'nduja and wholegrain polenta. If you fancy something for afters, the deep-fried bread and butter pudding with 'cold custard' is exceedingly tempting. The setting is a small, square canteen-style room with plenty of light during the day, while service comes without frills or posturing – just as it should be. 

Image: Maureen M. Evans

The atmosphere is casual at this modern, lively restaurant and bar with its polished concrete floor, exposed steel girders and natural timber tables. Popular with young professionals from the area’s hi-tech Silicon Roundabout hub, a meal here is a joyful, head-spinning whirl around the culinary globe. Part of Richard Corrigan’s group of restaurants (Corrigan’s, Bentley’s), Daffodil Muliigan's menu arguably comes closest to representing the freewheeling, eclectic style that helped the chef make his name back in the 1990s. Tuck into the deliciously charred ember-baked bread (a large charcoal grill and wood-fired oven dominate the open kitchen) or the chef's famous soda bread with buttermilk and butter while you choose between more than 30 options on the regularly changing menu. Look out for the signatures: Hereford beef tartare with oyster cream; pig's cheek skewers with tamarind and brown crab chip-shop sauce, and the addictive salt-chilli fried chicken. But there is much else to tempt. A full-flavoured, richly satisfying twice-baked crab and Parmesan soufflé accompanied by a delicately smoky bisque hollandaise perhaps, or a generously proportioned and hugely enjoyable lamb dish – cutlet, loin and slow-cooked belly – served with caponata, black olive crumb and ricotta. For dessert, traditionalists should stick with the classic chocolate fondant with caramel and sea salt; alternatives such as Jerusalem artichoke with chocolate and coffee, or ‘tea and cereal’ (featuring a heavily smoked prune purée with tea-marinated prunes, hay-infused ice cream and puffed rice) may prove a bridge too far. Lunchtime deals are a bargain, service is friendly, efficient and attentive, and the fairly short wine list opens at £30. If the convivial atmosphere gets you in the party mood, head to the atmospheric Gibney’s basement bar for an excellent pint of Irish stout to go with a programme of live music, comedy and sports broadcasts.

If you’re looking for Korean food the way they serve it in the suburbs of Seoul, look no further. Bokman’s big sister offers authentic, grown-up cuisine in a relaxed neighbourhood setting. A sparsely decorated, bright, white space, the best seats are in the main room, rather than the slightly cramped adjoining area by the bar. Ask for a counter seat in front of the open kitchen to watch the team of chefs buzzing around the charcoal grill overseen by chef-owners Duncan Robertson and Kyu Jeong Jeon.

Lunch (Wed-Fri) is an excellent-value set menu of soup, rice and banchan (side dishes such as mustard-leaf kimchi or seasoned miyeok seaweed) plus noodles or something barbecued – say pork belly wrapped in ssam (mixed leaves) with homemade fermented soy, chilli or anchovy condiments that are guaranteed to tantalise your taste buds.

Dinner is a carte, unless you order the 'hanjeongsik', a series of dishes from all sections of the menu chosen by the chefs. Depending on how adventurous you feel, highlights might include salted jellyfish naengchae (a light crab, pork and seafood salad in a potent mustard dressing) or cubes of beautifully rare grilled wagyu beef with toasted-sesame dipping oil and a spicy ‘water’ kimchi. Elsewhere, a sizzling claypot of wild mushroom dolsotbap with a perfectly runny egg yolk, seaweed and a spicy side of perilla-oil dressing hits the spot, too.

There's only one option for those who fancy dessert: the Delica squash and black sesame injeolmi is a mochi-like, almost savoury, steamed dumpling served on a pillow of delightfully rich and sweet chestnut cream. Drinkers, on the other hand, will be very happy with the selection of traditional Korean drinks such as soju or home-brewed green tea, plus Japanese beers, classy cocktails and a thoughtfully chosen wine list including several chilled reds.

‘From “oyster happy hour” to beautifully roasted sharing platters, this place has so many nuances to keep locals coming back, and to drag Edinburgh’s food fanatics away from Stockbridge and Leith,’ noted a fan of this ‘relentlessly good’ neighbourhood bistro in Bruntsfield. Fans of tinned fish and other booze-friendly snacks make a beeline for the broody little wine bar in the basement, although the main action takes place in the bright, unfussy dining room at street level. Despite the postcode, chef-patron Stuart Smith’s cooking is anything but parochial, and he is currently delivering some of the best seafood in the city.

Small plates form the bulk of the menu, backed up by ‘market fish’ specials (perhaps ‘perfectly cooked’ John Dory on the bone accompanied by pak choi, carrots, fries and aïoli). Salt cod mousse with herb oil and grilled sourdough is a fixture, but also look for wonderfully sweet Gairloch langoustines with emerald-hued wild garlic mayo or pickled mussels with carrot, buckwheat and fermented peach hot sauce. Away from the sea, you might find Denhead Farm asparagus with white beans, walnut and guanciale or slow-cooked lamb shoulder accompanied by friggitelli peppers, roasted onion and goat’s curd.

For afters, readers have singled out a ‘suitably tart’ lemon posset and a well-judged chocolate mousse with miso caramel and hazelnuts. The comprehensive but accessible wine list has a distinctly French accent and at least a dozen options by the glass, while a separate, more indulgent 'cellar list' is available for those seeking to mark an occasion – or to create one.

There's no lack of smart dining pubs in North Norfolk, but a brilliant neighbourhood bistro? Head to Cromer for a refreshing change of format and a dose of cosmopolitan cool. Opened in 2024 by Daniel Goff (fresh from 15 years running the Dun Cow in Salthouse) and local artist Ruth Butler, their transformation of a former butcher's shop has lifted the spirit of the seaside town and amassed legions of firm fans.

A bar at the front serves as an informal drop-in, perhaps for a frosty Fino Martini and snacks of warm brioche buns, oysters and gildas – a line-up to rival any in the capital. But Ruth’s colourful paintings and a welcome full of warmth and personality will lure you into the smart, blue-hued dining room at the back.

There’s simple elegance to a menu in tempo with the seasons and littered with the best of Norfolk’s produce and beyond. Cromer crab might appear in a dainty tart with samphire, in a soufflé with shellfish bisque, or in crispy fritters with crab chutney, while larger plates take in local line-caught sea bass or a guinea fowl suprême with a knockout tarragon brioche pudding and sauce vin jaune. A mention must go to the superb-value £15 lunch specials, perhaps steak haché with peppercorn sauce and a generous side of excellent parmentier potatoes, plus a glass of wine. 

The enthusiasm inspired by Fino’s perfect pitch gets neighbouring tables talking, not least when it comes to dessert. Our lemon posset was extraordinarily good; artfully tangy with Norfolk strawberries in their sweet, fragrant prime. But so was the gently warm, gooey treacle tart with a short buttery crust. Drinks uphold the theme of approachability, with a 460ml Lyonnaise pot heading up the bottle list for exploration, while a line-up of unfiltered sherries is a nod to the restaurant’s namesake. ‘I feel incredibly lucky to have Fino open on my doorstep,’ said one of many readers who wrote in to sing its praises. We couldn’t agree more.

After years of pop-ups, this Italian-inspired restaurant group is firmly established south of the river with a permanent spot in Peckham (Forza Wine). Now its most ambitious project to date is to be found on the second floor of The National Theatre. The concrete, wood and glass 160-seater is the place to pop in for drinks – Forza’s special cherry Negroni leads the cocktail charge and there’s an interesting list of approachable, modern European wines including plenty by the glass.

 From the kitchen comes a compact, seasonally aware list of Italian-style small plates to share. To begin, we enjoyed a generous serving of cauliflower fritti with aïoli, as well as a satisfying plate of potato, pancetta and porcini mushrooms. As dishes arrive when they are ready, we happily discovered that roasted Delica pumpkin set atop a pool of creamy pearl barley and sage worked really well with pink, well-flavoured slices of lamb shoulder, celeriac and salsa verde. Each of these items was simply executed and tasted deliciously of its excellent well-sourced ingredients, although not everything we sampled passed muster.

However, there was nothing awry about our milk soft serve with roasted apple and a topping of candied walnut; the famed ‘Custardo’ – an affogato made with custard – is not to be missed, either. While on-the-ball staff check if you are dining pre-theatre, such is Forza’s following that few people depart when the final call sounds for the Lyttelton Theatre one floor down – the atmosphere remains lively. It's also worth checking out the pleasant, partially covered terrace looking onto the river and Waterloo Bridge.

An adjunct to the horticulturally enticing Garden Museum in the deconsecrated church of St Mary-at-Lambeth, this appealing, Scandi-style eatery has become something of a destination hereabouts. Part of the attraction is its shaded courtyard garden – a verdant oasis of calm and civility, even when it's jam-packed. Staff are sweet, helpful and as friendly as can be, although we noticed quite a few missteps when we visited (admittedly on one of the hottest, busiest days of the year). Lunch is the main event and the short menu is ‘bang on season’, promising dishes that are straightforward and big on flavour – as in a delightfully fresh plate of marinated chard with stracciatella and pangrattato. European ideas dominate, although the chef drops in a few doughty British classics too (venison mince with swede and horseradish, say). A bowl of ajo blanco was spot-on for the weather, while a piece of perfectly timed brill on the bone needed only some crispy potatoes and a spoonful of herb butter. Top pick? A deliciously comforting but oh-so-simple dish of ricotta gnocchi and datterini tomatoes drizzled with olive oil. To finish, expect anything from chocolate semifreddo to baked custard with plums, depending on the season. The drinks list is equally short and sweet with juices, cordials and beers alongside some low-intervention wines. While the Garden Café is primarily a daytime spot (coffee and cake are available either side of lunch), they also serve evening meals on Tuesdays and Fridays.

Husband and wife team Eroshan and Aushi Meewella’s bijou Sri Lankan eatery is fun, and their generous, low-priced, two-course set lunch comes highly recommended. Squeeze into the tiny terrace fronting Kingly Street (great for people-watching) or bag one of the tables inside and tuck into that Sri Lankan lunch staple – a composite curry/rice bowl. We chose Ceylon chicken curry and 'Vaira’s jaggery beef', both served with dhal, okra, coconutty pol sambol and mango chutney on a bed of rice. Wash it all down with Sri Lanka’s favourite Lion lager, cocktails such as a chilli-laced Margarita, or something from the short European wine list.

'Special without being pretentious' is one verdict on this admirable farm-to-fork operation, which the citizens of Great Malvern have taken to their hearts since it opened in 2024. With windows overlooking the greenery of Malvern Priory’s graveyard, and a spacious modern interior incorporating a bar/dining counter as well as an open kitchen, it’s a good-looking, lively spot regularly filled with a hubbub of locals.

The prime attraction is prime meat, reared and butchered on the Madresfield Estate just two miles away. A popular choice is the daily changing ‘butcher’s board’ for two, which might comprise beef short-rib tacos, lamb koftas, rack of lamb and a Barnsley chop, served with little pots of sauces (gravy, chimichurri, peppercorn). To kick things off, try the glazed short-rib – a modest, highly savoury portion of pulled beef served with a blob of spinach and watercress sauce and a smear of sweet rhubarb jam. 

Our latest visit continued with barbecued lamb rump – succulent medium-rare slices matched with a large braised carrot, timidly flavoured courgette and wild garlic purée, plus pleasingly viscous gravy. Less gratifying was a very large side dish of butter beans, made overwhelmingly sweet with truffle honey. Still, a dessert of almond cake and thick crème diplomat surrounded by strawberry coulis with crunchy blanched almonds provided a comforting finale. 

The restaurant's offer also includes a fairly priced set lunch and pre-theatre menu, while the wine list features a batch of desirable vintages as well as a selection of everyday drinking. Service from the young team is vivacious and charming – all that's needed is a little fine-tuning to the dishes supporting the first-rate meat.

Abby Lee’s Malaysian restaurant has grown from a 2020 pop-up via a temporary kitchen in Peckham in 2022 to a bricks-and-mortar site in Clapton. It remains a small-scale independent, with room for just 40 covers (20 of which are in a covered backyard). Maybe it’s a little scuffed and scruffy (a football shirt-clad waiter might take your order, and the edgy soundtrack won't be to everyone's taste), but Mambow is well worth a visit – especially if you get a thrill from electrifying cooking and can survive without luxurious trappings.

Lee has taken some time out of the kitchen recently, but co-owner Vanessa Fernandez has deputised more than capably. Our most recent lunch coincided with the addition of several new season’s dishes to the menu: a lively octopus terrine – a carpaccio, really – with green tomato sambal, cucumber kerabu and green Szechuan peppercorn vinaigrette; a ripe tomato salad topped with a mound of crunchy anchovy, coconut and ginger; and a new-to-us Hokkien stir-fry of qin beh kuih (a type of rice cake, squidgier than Korean tteokbokki), infused with pork stock and served with pork mince, lard and Chinese sausage. To drink, there are iced teas, ciders, a short list of natural wines and a trio of cocktails (developed in collaboration with hip cocktail outfit Malik Acid), which can take all those full-on, upfront flavours in their stride.

There are currently two Marays in Liverpool, one at the Britannia Pavilion on Albert Dock and this outlet, at the top end of restaurant-heavy Bold Street. Sitting cheek-by-jowl with eateries of every complexion, it is dedicated to Levantine meze (labneh, houmous et al) and bigger traditional dishes (lamb shawarma, spiced lentil and rice majadara). There's a popular, good-value lunch too, while well-chosen cocktails and wines are a decent match for the food. 

Part of the local Lewis family stable of hotels and restaurants, this bakery has been luring crowds with enticing oven smells since it first opened. With tea rooms attached, it draws in casual tourists seeking solid Scottish in-hand sustenance along with those stocking up for the week. Their breads showcase quality small-batch flours and slow fermentation, and they offer a full portfolio of pies to please the purist (‘Scotland in pastry’), as well as fat, fulsome sausage rolls with a variety of enhancements. There are also meringues ‘the size of a baby's head’ and sweet indulgences galore. Scones are examplars of their kind, while brownies and blondies will fuel you up the steepest of local hills.

If you're looking for a genuine New York-style pizza in Manchester, this pioneering family-run spot is the place to visit. Nell's specialises in 14-inch and 22-inch whoppers served whole or by the slice, and the owners pay attention to the details – buying from accredited British producers, slow-fermenting their dough for 36 hours and offering seasonal twists on the classics: try the OG cheese version or the ‘Sidewalk’ (crushed tomato, salsa verde, red onion, vegan ‘nduja, roasted peppers and artichoke). For afters, sweeten the deal with one of Nell’s ice-cream sandwiches. Service is swift, the Common bar is great for socialising and there’s seating outside throughout the summer. Branches in Chorlton, Kampus and Altrincham.

Replacing much-loved greasy spoon Lockside (immortalised in Only Fools and Horses as Sid's Café), this upmarket yet down-to-earth fish and chip joint (with add-ons) deserves to inspire just as much affection. Wooden-clad, with large porthole windows at the front, it looks like an ark that has somehow drifted out of the Cumberland basin and got wedged underneath a flyover. Inside, the attention to detail – from the pretty stoneware salt cellars to the tropical fish wallpaper in the ladies' loo – creates a delightful backdrop.

The short menu is dictated by what's come off the boats in Brixham and Newlyn that morning. Don't skip the starters – chef-owner Daniel Rosser's time in the kitchens of London's Sabor and the Seahorse in Dartmouth shines through in dishes such as a rich and spicy Cornish fish soup loaded with hefty chucks of cod, mussels and a large croûton topped with pungent aïoli. Main courses include deep-fried chip shop staples, say cod loin or haddock fillet in a delightfully light batter, plus hand-cut chips (from sacks of potatoes you can see piled near the kitchen), homemade mushy peas and tartare sauce served on a scallop shell.

However, it's the grilled dishes that really impress: a fat whole Cornish sole, adorned with a vibrant green garlic and herb butter, is beautifully fresh and light. Puddings are schoolroom favourites of the sticky toffee pudding variety, although the dark chocolate mousse with clotted-cream ice cream is a decidedly adult affair. The short but thoughtfully assembled wine list is predominantly white, with more than half offered by the glass.

When Ombra opened its doors by the banks of the Regent's Canal back in 2011, today’s gentrification was a long way off. Now this former retail site is custom-built for a taste of Venetian-style bacaro cool. Drop by on spec, have a drink and a snack with some fresh bread from the owners’ bakery Forno – whatever you fancy. It's the perfect setting with its edgy but wonderfully whimsical interior design, tinted floor-to-ceiling windows and heated terrace for alfresco socialising.

Chef Mitshel Ibrahim (ex-Clove Club) conjures up some rare inventions, taking his cue from the traditions of regional Italian small-plates grazing, but adding flavours that are all his own – how about Carlingford oysters topped with startling cherry mustard? As for his light and crispy crostino topped with the most translucent home-cured pancetta, it ranks as ’one of the singularly most delicious mouthfuls I have ever tasted,’ drooled an inspector.

Other prize nibbles might range from a ‘cauliflower mushroom’ (sparassis) with Calabrian chilli and egg yolk to cured mackerel tartare with fennel and blood orange, although you must leave room for some silky hand-rolled pasta. Tagliatelle with well-judged anchovy butter and a generous amount of shaved truffle is a ‘triumph of less is more’, while crab tortelloni with crab ragù and hen of the woods brings delicacy as well as flavour to the table.

The menu also includes a couple of heftier ‘secondi’ too (a show-stopping dish of melting sweetbreads in perfectly balanced pea and mint velouté, say), while classic ‘dolci’ could herald panna cotta with poached pears or chestnut and roasted quince semifreddo. Since ‘ombra’ is Venetian dialect for a weeny glass of wine, it’s no surprise that drinkers have a ‘really interesting’ choice of Italian low-intervention tipples to sample. There are cool spritzs and aperitifs too.

Tucked away in a small courtyard off Angel Row, this new venture from veteran Nottingham chef Dan Coles occupies the lofty hidden unit that previously housed Kushi-Ya. Inside, it’s still a sparse space with lots of original beams, bare brick and cast iron radiators, plus posies of dried flowers to soften the mood. Dishes arrive ‘well-staggered’ from the tiny open-to-view kitchen, with the emphasis firmly on locally sourced, seasonal ingredients. Snacks set the tone, from crusty soda bread served with Marmite butter or whipped cream cheese and chives to plump, juicy skewered sausages with a sweet marmalade glaze and mustard dipping sauce.

To follow, there’s a choice of meat, fish and vegetable dishes highlighting rather than obscuring the quality of the produce on offer. A serving of perfectly cooked, pearlescent cod came with a spot-on hollandaise sauce and crunchy samphire, while a well-rested, blushing hanger steak showed similar restraint, with some asparagus and a dill-flecked sauce gribiche as bedfellows. Dessert might bring crème brûlée or a parsnip cake with honey butterscotch and stem ginger ice cream, although we were bowled over by a richly flavoured but feather-light chocolate mousse accompanied by whipped Chantilly with spikes of sour cherry livening up the whole shebang. 

To drink, Cidentro cider from Melton Mowbray, plus beers from Nottingham’s Neon Raptor, Thornbridge and other local brews, line-up alongside cocktails and a slate of reasonably priced wines. There’s a genuine neighbourhood feel to the place and value for money is assured, especially with the option of a one-course weekday ‘worker’s lunch’ (Wed-Fri) including a glass of wine or beer. Regular themed nights and special Sunday lunch sessions involving Midlands drinks specialists add to the local fun.

With its altar-like, meat-ageing cabinet and a blackboard listing premium cuts, Porter & Rye reveres the ‘cow as king’ and customers duly pay homage. Inside, it's small with mezzanines maximising the tables, although judicious use of glass and subtle lighting achieves an overall effect that is more cosy than cramped. The informal welcome from easy-going but competent staff further fuels that laid-back feel. Stools for bar and counter dining – plus a grazing menu for those on the hoof – add capacity at busy times.

The menu offers small plates, big plates, cuts and big cuts, plus a token vegetarian option, game and seafood, although everyone is here for the beef – impeccably sourced, lovingly aged and carefully prepared. Carpaccio is moistened with truffled goat's milk and gets a satisfyingly salty hit from shredded pecorino. Delicate veal sweetbreads sit on walnuts and red pepper pesto – an atypical arrangement, although the earthy flavours work together. The full range of standard steaks are supplemented by a market selection of bigger sharing cuts (tomahawk, chateaubriand, porterhouse) priced by weight and age. The cooking is exact, accompaniments include some standout beef-dripping fries, and the ‘select your own weapon’ steak knife is a nice touch.

For some, however, the crowning glory is the traditional Sunday roast with its duo of thick-sliced meat and braised ox cheek complemented by an extensive range of oven-roasted vegetables, a suitably gnarly yorkie and glossy bone-marrow jus. Desserts might include the popular sticky toffee Alaska with its caramelised dome of meringue hiding a ginger-infused ice. Wines come from a short list of popular favourites with a steak-friendly focus. Prices are kind and most are available by the glass, although there are a few ‘opulent’ choices for those wanting to splash out.

Of all the multifarious eating and drinking opportunities in the heart of Soho, this ‘warmly welcoming’ little restaurant is one of the more compelling. Rita’s goes about its business with gusto, its popularity not surprising given the casual vibe, the warmth of the service and straight-to-the point modern American-style cooking. It’s not going to win any prizes for inventiveness – dishes tend to be simple assemblies built around seasonal British produce – but barbecued beef tartare with garlic, raw vegetables and lots of herbs, and a special of corn-crusted turbot served on a heap of courgettes and set in a puddle of herb butter – were good calls on a warm spring evening. Salt-fish taquitos have been praised, fried chicken parmigiana puts in an appearance, and flavours are ramped up with prime cuts and sharing steaks (order with ‘wrong way’ French fries). Desserts feature the likes of sunflower ice cream with caramel sundae, and the express lunch of, say, fried chicken roll, Caesar salad or eggplant panino is good value. Cocktails star alongside a European wine list stuffed with on-trend low intervention producers.

Expect vibrant colours, vivid flavours, seductive aromas and inspired creativity by the bucketload at this vegetable-led, sharing- plates restaurant – part of Josh and Holly Eggleton’s Pony Restaurant Group. Chef Rob Howell (who opened the original Root in Bristol’s Wapping Wharf) masterfully incorporates influences from India, South East Asia, South America, Italy, France and Spain into a regularly changing seasonal menu.

A spring meal saw plump butter beans served in a verdant, concentrated broth of wild garlic and cavolo nero, further enlivened by dots of fresh, brightly flavoured ewe’s curd. Beautifully cooked Wye Valley asparagus was paired with an aerated, citrussy Alicante sauce and a crispy-coated runny egg that added extra richness and texture. Snacks, including ethereal cheese choux puffs (a signature of the restaurant) and crisp cauliflower bhajis with a tangy tamarind sauce delivered as much flavour and enjoyment as the larger dishes. To conclude, Basque cheesecake might be paired with milk jam, while rub baba could be enlivened with apricot and fennel cream.

An open kitchen adds some theatre to the elegant and comfortable dining room, where service couldn’t be more enthusiastic and welcoming. The short list of mostly European wines features organic, biodynamic and low-intervention bottles, with most priced at under £50 and great value across the board.

The inconspicuous entrance – look for the pillarbox-red door – doesn’t give much away. Take the lift to the 4th floor and pull back the velvet curtain for the grand reveal. The huge arched windows of Palladian-style Sessions House (once the country’s largest courthouse) flood the former judges’ dining room with light by day, and reflect the flickering candlelight by night. It feels like stepping onto a period film set, the distressed paintwork and salvaged furnishings evoking a faded louche decadence.

Former sous-chef Abigail Hill is now running the kitchen, and her seasonally inspired food captures and reflects the artful aesthetic. The single-sheet roster of Med-accented dishes runs from the diminutive to the substantial and can be enjoyed in a three-course format – though each dish is delivered to your table when ready, so it’s arguably better to approach the menu as a pick-‘n’-mix.

Hill composes the food as much for the eye as for the palate, and any sense of pared-back austerity is banished by seductive richness and decadence: thick, buttery slices of lightly cured trout, properly seasoned and accompanied by a tart cream, heady with perfumed bergamot, for example, or rare onglet with a cloud of finely grated Spenwood cheese, which further heightens the almost gamey umami of the beef. This is well-judged and skilful stuff. Elsewhere, roasted muscat grapes bring bursts of sweet acidity to a winter creation of rich and astutely cooked pork with collard greens.

Vegetable dishes are given minor billing, though offerings such as shards of raw Badger Flame beetroot with walnuts and Jerusalem artichoke purée or a standout combo of purple sprouting broccoli with pistachio crumb and ewe’s yoghurt go a long way to absolving this. To finish, chocolate torte is a worthy Sessions classic. The wine list, supplied by Keeling Andrew (importers, distributors, consultants and founders of Noble Rot), is well-suited to the grown-up Sessions crowd (over-18s only): expect a stylish assortment of crowd-pleasers and hip appellations, plus an impressive by-the-glass range and plenty for those who want to delve a little deeper.

Looking pretty in pastel shades, the boutique charms of this small, upbeat restaurant are a perfect fit for Mayfair, and for Bruton Place – which is becoming quite the foodie street these days. Silva comes across as somewhere that supports special-occasion dinners as much as informal lunches, and the cooking is as joyous as it is seasonal.

The day kicks off with breakfast (brunch at the weekends), then moves on to a short, modern menu packed with Mediterranean flavours – and one that delivers some real treats. Consider Cornish crab ravioli with a creamy langoustine sauce, or crisp-skinned wild sea bass fillet cooked all’acqua pazza style and served with courgette and green olives – a perfect exemplar of the classic simplicity that is the kitchen’s hallmark. Equally straightforward and satisfying was a creamy heap of stracciatella cheese with slices of caramelised flat peach and hazelnuts, followed by a chunk of steamed halibut with broccoli purée on sauce vierge, topped with a tangle of monk’s beard and tomatoes.

Elsewhere, lamb cutlets (with courgette and marjoram jus) have been praised, and similar contentment is to be found among desserts – especially a chocolate pavé with coffee ice cream. The mood is relaxed, and service is spot on. The wine list offers satisfying scope, with a good selection by the glass (priced for the location).

With forested hills sloping onto fields of grazing sheep and the Gothic remains of Byland Abbey towering over the entrance, this pub with rooms is a dream ticket – no wonder it was snapped up by chef Tommy Banks (the Black Swan at Oldstead is nearby). Inside, there’s a little bar with a snug for those wanting a drink, but the main action takes place in the three dining rooms, one of which is the former piggery – an expansive room with beams, giant flagstones and a double-facing log-burning stove, all illuminated by a conservatory-style skylight. The mood is relaxed and staff stay on top of their tasks, while cute details in the handsome finishes speak of Tommy Banks’ pedigree.

The food also makes a connection to the Banks family farm (without labouring the point), and chef Charlie Smith serves up a procession of seriously appealing, modern pub-style dishes – an incredibly original Dexter steak tartare, perhaps, cut into uniform nuggets resembling translucent rubies decorated with grated wild horseradish, fermented peppers and smoked bone marrow. Elsewhere, there might be a light, elegant plate of smoked Pablo beetroot with ewe’s curd, preserved Yorkshire rhubarb and linseed crackers for texture. Some of the meaty main courses such as a pork rib chop with fermented mushroom béarnaise could do with a little finessing, although fish dishes hit the spot – judging by a pitch-perfect serving of cod with a splendid mussel cream sauce and purple-red potatoes on the side.

Everything is executed with flair, professionalism and a deep respect for local ingredients – and that extends to the dazzling roasts served for Sunday lunch (check out the rare-breed Berkshire pork and Herdwick lamb from the family farm, just two miles away). If you're looking for real value, however, order the mighty Dexter cheeseburger with fries, plus a pint of Yorkshire-brewed ale and a shared dessert – say a soft-serve sundae topped with Douglas fir, blackcurrant and white chocolate. Aside from real ale, drinks include seasonal cocktails, homemade libations and a short but decent selection of wines with plenty by the glass.

A 20-year tenure at the Oxford Arms in Kirtlington earned Bryn and Oxana Jones a strong pedigree that stood them in good stead when they relocated to Scotland in 2022. It also gave them the opportunity to sensitively refresh and expand this historic coaching inn on the scenic, remote and – at times – dramatic road across the Borders between Moffat and Selkirk.

The Gordon Arms is a genuine family affair – Bryn in the kitchen, Oxana front of house – and guests are drawn into the comforting solidity of well-banked fires, convivial chat and a sense of respite and restoration from travel. Seasonality, sustainability and local sourcing are evident across the carte and monthly changing five-course tasting menu – and there's a keen eye for value, too. You’re welcome to have just one dish or three kindly priced courses.

Expect carefully prepared, rustic food from a chef who understands the quality of his raw materials and is content to let them shine. A satisfyingly hearty game terrine reflects the Borders location, embracing whatever came out of the gamekeeper’s bag that day, simply complemented by homemade plum chutney and sourdough. Venison salami from the Yarrow Valley, meanwhile, is partnered by unapologetically chunky celeriac rémoulade.

Lamb loin ‘melting in the mouth and tasting divine’ has all the flavour you’d expect from a life on the surrounding heather-clad hills, while a roseate venison Wellington is the perfect exemplar of that dish. For dessert, look for Oxana’s deft touch in a flourless chocolate and hazelnut torte alongside Armagnac prunes or classic orchard-based fruit desserts from the garden. The wine list is well-focused, with some interesting and affordable options as well as a decent selection by the glass or carafe.

Although it's been refurbished to extend the eating counter for groups of four, provide velvet-lined booths for couples who want privacy and add larger tables for up to 10, the real energy at this buzzing Israeli-inspired joint in Chinatown nevertheless centres on the stools at the counter facing the open kitchen. The easiest way to decide what to eat is simply to watch the procession of dishes being assembled in lickety-split time for neighbouring diners and choose whatever looks tastiest. Otherwise, graze on a couple of snacks – nuggets of zaatar chicken schnitzel or bitesize lamb skewers with carob molasses, say – while perusing the menu. The kubaneh is an essential accompaniment whatever you order, a puffy dome of golden-brown bread that could be the perfect embodiment of 'tear and share'. Dunked into tomato and tahini sauces, it is a course in itself but it’s also an essential conduit for mopping up the last morsels from any plate: the confit garlic yoghurt beneath a fleshy pair of spiced lamb cutlets, say, or the sunset-orange chimichurri pooling around slices of rare ribeye. Vegetables are a good shout: aubergine served as baba ganoush or as a carpaccio with white miso; a risotto made with freekeh and stirred with kale and dukkah. However, most of the fish and meat dishes come with some intriguing interpretation of greenery: an Israeli spin on kimchi with bream, or a jumble of kohlrabi, molasses and feta beneath dusky-pink chunks of tender glazed octopus both get a big thumbs-up. There’s wine to drink – the Lebanese house Cinsault rosé from the Massaya Winery is lovely – but cocktails are arguably even better: try the Bumblebee, a food-friendly mix of gin, honey, ginger and lemon. The Palomar may no longer feel like the hippest venue in town, partly because so many places have copied the formula – not least its Covent Garden sibling, the Barbary. But when the flames are shooting up behind the counter and your new-best-friend chef is offering a shot, there are few more thrilling perches around Soho.

Originally a tiny garret above Bath’s deservedly popular Landrace community bakery (recently doubled in size), this charmingly relaxed and welcoming small-plates bistro has since expanded into a more generously proportioned second room. Stone walls adorned with framed posters and high shelves lined with empty wine bottles provide the decoration here. A corner bar with counter seats complements the black-topped tables on the scruffy wood floor.

Chef Rob Sachdev’s passion for sourcing incredible produce as locally as possible is evident throughout the menu. Sharing is the name of the game here, with dishes ranging in size from generous snacks to full-on main courses. Take it from our reporters, you'll kick yourself if you don’t start with the Cheddar curd fritters. Among the small plates, a thrillingly super-fresh combo of ewe’s curd, pea, broad-bean tops and crostini, glistening under a slick of grass-green olive oil, positively sings of summer. 

Larger dishes always include some seasonal pasta (perhaps nettle tagliatelle with Wye Valley asparagus or pappardelle with Westcombe veal ragù, sage and Parmesan) alongside complex and satisfying ideas such as beef rump with chickpeas, rainbow chard and salsa verde. Desserts, meanwhile, are a great advert for the bakery's patisserie skills, as in a warm cherry and almond tart (moreish, rich and crumbly) or pain perdu with lemon curd and candied zest. An adventurous list of natural and biodynamic wines offers a chance to be pleasantly surprised by something new: even the house white – a boldly flavoured, organic Catarratto from Sicily – doesn't play it safe. 

Framlingham’s 'Castle on the Hill' may be the stuff of song these days (thanks Ed Sheeran) but this neighbourhood Italian, just a few steps down from that hill, deserves a hit serenade too. ‘Spot-on, absolutely delicious,’ noted one diner, applauding a Dover sole, precisely roasted to that moment when the flesh slips easily from bone. Its only accompanimemts were peas and spinach sott’olio, and a length of seared chard, because 'that's all a fish of such deliciousness needs'. Two sardines ask for nothing more than a spoonful of bright salsa verde, while butter-soft slices of beef carpaccio sit perfectly with a squiggle of classic Harry’s Bar dressing and shards of Parmesan. Watson and Walpole is a place to eat deliciously all’italiana, so come hungry. Begin with frittura of brown shrimps or burrata with crushed broad beans and peas, proceed to some spectacularly fine handmade pasta, a secondo of meat or fish, and a dolce dessert. Pasta-wise, pappardelle with a gentle lamb ragù clinging to the silky ribbons stands out, so too orecchiette filled with sweet, summery crab. You could be in a seaside Puglian trattoria or – in the case of the pappardelle – a hilltop Umbrian eatery. Chicken, simply grilled, comes with colourful zucchini and chilli-pepped salsa etrusca, while a generous pork chop with borlotti beans offers something much heartier. Less hungry? You're more than welcome to drop by for a bowl of 'pasta e via' or a pizza from the hard-working wood-fired oven. To finish, the tiramisu has been described as ‘probably the best either of us has ever eaten, light, creamy and with lots of booze’. Italy’s wines in all their beautiful diversity fill a compact and reasonably priced list, with a ‘jolly decent’ Garganega from Veneto opening the offer at £20. Head round the back of Watson & Walpole to find Beviamo, a cool, informal space that is continuing the restaurant’s Italian vibe by serving up pizza by the slice from the wood-fired oven and offering cocktails such as negroni, amalfitano (a mojito with limoncello) and espresso martini alongside wine and beer.