Porter & Rye

With its altar-like, meat-ageing cabinet and a blackboard listing premium cuts, Porter & Rye reveres the ‘cow as king’ and customers duly pay homage. Inside, it's small with mezzanines maximising the tables, although judicious use of glass and subtle lighting achieves an overall effect that is more cosy than cramped. The informal welcome from easy-going but competent staff further fuels that laid-back feel. Stools for bar and counter dining – plus a grazing menu for those on the hoof – add capacity at busy times.

The menu offers small plates, big plates, cuts and big cuts, plus a token vegetarian option, game and seafood, although everyone is here for the beef – impeccably sourced, lovingly aged and carefully prepared. Carpaccio is moistened with truffled goat's milk and gets a satisfyingly salty hit from shredded pecorino. Delicate veal sweetbreads sit on walnuts and red pepper pesto – an atypical arrangement, although the earthy flavours work together. The full range of standard steaks are supplemented by a market selection of bigger sharing cuts (tomahawk, chateaubriand, porterhouse) priced by weight and age. The cooking is exact, accompaniments include some standout beef-dripping fries, and the ‘select your own weapon’ steak knife is a nice touch.

For some, however, the crowning glory is the traditional Sunday roast with its duo of thick-sliced meat and braised ox cheek complemented by an extensive range of oven-roasted vegetables, a suitably gnarly yorkie and glossy bone-marrow jus. Desserts might include the popular sticky toffee Alaska with its caramelised dome of meringue hiding a ginger-infused ice. Wines come from a short list of popular favourites with a steak-friendly focus. Prices are kind and most are available by the glass, although there are a few ‘opulent’ choices for those wanting to splash out.