Root Wells

Expect vibrant colours, vivid flavours, seductive aromas and inspired creativity by the bucketload at this vegetable-led, sharing- plates restaurant – part of Josh and Holly Eggleton’s Pony Restaurant Group. Chef Rob Howell (who opened the original Root in Bristol’s Wapping Wharf) masterfully incorporates influences from India, South East Asia, South America, Italy, France and Spain into a regularly changing seasonal menu.

A spring meal saw plump butter beans served in a verdant, concentrated broth of wild garlic and cavolo nero, further enlivened by dots of fresh, brightly flavoured ewe’s curd. Beautifully cooked Wye Valley asparagus was paired with an aerated, citrussy Alicante sauce and a crispy-coated runny egg that added extra richness and texture. Snacks, including ethereal cheese choux puffs (a signature of the restaurant) and crisp cauliflower bhajis with a tangy tamarind sauce delivered as much flavour and enjoyment as the larger dishes. To conclude, Basque cheesecake might be paired with milk jam, while rub baba could be enlivened with apricot and fennel cream.

An open kitchen adds some theatre to the elegant and comfortable dining room, where service couldn’t be more enthusiastic and welcoming. The short list of mostly European wines features organic, biodynamic and low-intervention bottles, with most priced at under £50 and great value across the board.