Daffodil Mulligan

Shoreditch, London

Rating: Good

Modern British/Global | Restaurant

Overall Rating: Good

Uniqueness: Very Good

Deliciousness: Good

Warmth: Good

Strength of recommendation: Good

The atmosphere is casual at this modern, lively restaurant and bar with its polished concrete floor, exposed steel girders and natural timber tables. Popular with young professionals from the area’s hi-tech Silicon Roundabout hub, a meal here is a joyful, head-spinning whirl around the culinary globe. Part of Richard Corrigan’s group of restaurants (Corrigan’s, Bentley’s), Daffodil Muliigan's menu arguably comes closest to representing the freewheeling, eclectic style that helped the chef make his name back in the 1990s. Tuck into the deliciously charred ember-baked bread (a large charcoal grill and wood-fired oven dominate the open kitchen) or the chef's famous soda bread with buttermilk and butter while you choose between more than 30 options on the regularly changing menu. Look out for the signatures: Hereford beef tartare with oyster cream; pig's cheek skewers with tamarind and brown crab chip-shop sauce, and the addictive salt-chilli fried chicken. But there is much else to tempt. A full-flavoured, richly satisfying twice-baked crab and Parmesan soufflé accompanied by a delicately smoky bisque hollandaise perhaps, or a generously proportioned and hugely enjoyable lamb dish – cutlet, loin and slow-cooked belly – served with caponata, black olive crumb and ricotta. For dessert, traditionalists should stick with the classic chocolate fondant with caramel and sea salt; alternatives such as Jerusalem artichoke with chocolate and coffee, or ‘tea and cereal’ (featuring a heavily smoked prune purée with tea-marinated prunes, hay-infused ice cream and puffed rice) may prove a bridge too far. Lunchtime deals are a bargain, service is friendly, efficient and attentive, and the fairly short wine list opens at £30. If the convivial atmosphere gets you in the party mood, head to the atmospheric Gibney’s basement bar for an excellent pint of Irish stout to go with a programme of live music, comedy and sports broadcasts.

P Barklem

13 November 2023

The fried chicken with mustard and pickles called us back to this buzzy restaurant/bar. The beef fat mashed potato (served in a very heavy stone bowl) is a thing of utter joy. Sticky Pork Belly with blackberry sauce was worth going back for next time. Service was impeccable from start to finish.

Rating: Good

Modern British/Global | Restaurant

Overall Rating: Good

Uniqueness: Very Good

Deliciousness: Good

Warmth: Good

Strength of recommendation: Good

Dining Information:

Separate bar, Wheelchair access, Credit card required

70-74 City Road, Shoreditch EC1Y 2BJ

020 7404 3000

P Barklem

13 November 2023

The fried chicken with mustard and pickles called us back to this buzzy restaurant/bar. The beef fat mashed potato (served in a very heavy stone bowl) is a thing of utter joy. Sticky Pork Belly with blackberry sauce was worth going back for next time. Service was impeccable from start to finish.