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Mambow
London, Clapton - Malaysian - Restaurant - ££
Malaysian-flavoured east London original
Abby Lee’s Malaysian restaurant has grown from a 2020 pop-up via a temporary kitchen in Peckham in 2022 to a bricks-and-mortar site in Clapton. It remains a small-scale independent, with room for just 40 covers (20 of which are in a covered backyard). Maybe it’s a little scuffed and scruffy (a football shirt-clad waiter might take your order, and the edgy soundtrack won't be to everyone's taste), but Mambow is well worth a visit – especially if you get a thrill from electrifying cooking and can survive without luxurious trappings. Lee has taken some time out of the kitchen recently, but co-owner Vanessa Fernandez has deputised more than capably. Our most recent lunch coincided with the addition of several new season’s dishes to the menu: a lively octopus terrine – a carpaccio, really – with green tomato sambal, cucumber kerabu and green Szechuan peppercorn vinaigrette; a ripe tomato salad topped with a mound of crunchy anchovy, coconut and ginger; ...
Abby Lee’s Malaysian restaurant has grown from a 2020 pop-up via a temporary kitchen in Peckham in 2022 to a bricks-and-mortar site in Clapton. It remains a small-scale independent, with room for just 40 covers (20 of which are in a covered backyard). Maybe it’s a little scuffed and scruffy (a football shirt-clad waiter might take your order, and the edgy soundtrack won't be to everyone's taste), but Mambow is well worth a visit – especially if you get a thrill from electrifying cooking and can survive without luxurious trappings.
Lee has taken some time out of the kitchen recently, but co-owner Vanessa Fernandez has deputised more than capably. Our most recent lunch coincided with the addition of several new season’s dishes to the menu: a lively octopus terrine – a carpaccio, really – with green tomato sambal, cucumber kerabu and green Szechuan peppercorn vinaigrette; a ripe tomato salad topped with a mound of crunchy anchovy, coconut and ginger; and a new-to-us Hokkien stir-fry of qin beh kuih (a type of rice cake, squidgier than Korean tteokbokki), infused with pork stock and served with pork mince, lard and Chinese sausage. To drink, there are iced teas, ciders, a short list of natural wines and a trio of cocktails (developed in collaboration with hip cocktail outfit Malik Acid), which can take all those full-on, upfront flavours in their stride.

D Gale
30 July 2025
VENUE DETAILS
78 Lower Clapton Road
Clapton
E5 0RN
OTHER INFORMATION
Counter seating, Outdoor dining, Credit card required