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Mambow

London, Clapton - Malaysian - Restaurant - ££

Malaysian-flavoured east London original

Overall Rating: Very Good

Uniqueness:Does the establishment stand out in the context of the local area? Very Good

Deliciousness:How delicious is the food? Very Good

Warmth:How warm is the service and the hospitality in general? Very Good

Strength of recommendation:How enthusiastically and widely would you recommend the establishment? Very Good

Abby Lee’s Malaysian restaurant has grown from a 2020 pop-up via a temporary kitchen in Peckham in 2022 to a bricks-and-mortar site in Clapton. It remains a small-scale independent, with room for just 40 covers (20 of which are in a covered backyard). Maybe it’s a little scuffed and scruffy (a football shirt-clad waiter might take your order, and the edgy soundtrack won't be to everyone's taste), but Mambow is well worth a visit – especially if you get a thrill from electrifying cooking and can survive without luxurious trappings. Lee has taken some time out of the kitchen recently, but co-owner Vanessa Fernandez has deputised more than capably. Our most recent lunch coincided with the addition of several new season’s dishes to the menu: a lively octopus terrine – a carpaccio, really – with green tomato sambal, cucumber kerabu and green Szechuan peppercorn vinaigrette; a ripe tomato salad topped with a mound of crunchy anchovy, coconut and ginger; ...

Abby Lee’s Malaysian restaurant has grown from a 2020 pop-up via a temporary kitchen in Peckham in 2022 to a bricks-and-mortar site in Clapton. It remains a small-scale independent, with room for just 40 covers (20 of which are in a covered backyard). Maybe it’s a little scuffed and scruffy (a football shirt-clad waiter might take your order, and the edgy soundtrack won't be to everyone's taste), but Mambow is well worth a visit – especially if you get a thrill from electrifying cooking and can survive without luxurious trappings.

Lee has taken some time out of the kitchen recently, but co-owner Vanessa Fernandez has deputised more than capably. Our most recent lunch coincided with the addition of several new season’s dishes to the menu: a lively octopus terrine – a carpaccio, really – with green tomato sambal, cucumber kerabu and green Szechuan peppercorn vinaigrette; a ripe tomato salad topped with a mound of crunchy anchovy, coconut and ginger; and a new-to-us Hokkien stir-fry of qin beh kuih (a type of rice cake, squidgier than Korean tteokbokki), infused with pork stock and served with pork mince, lard and Chinese sausage. To drink, there are iced teas, ciders, a short list of natural wines and a trio of cocktails (developed in collaboration with hip cocktail outfit Malik Acid), which can take all those full-on, upfront flavours in their stride.

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D Gale

30 July 2025

First of all this is a restaurant run by two women. In my youth women chefs were as rare as hens teeth and I have always waved the flag for women chefs, as I have grown up. Here the two women chef proprietors, via their ...
First of all this is a restaurant run by two women. In my youth women chefs were as rare as hens teeth and I have always waved the flag for women chefs, as I have grown up. Here the two women chef proprietors, via their mothers, aunts and grandmothers have created a wonderful menu of Malaysian style dishes all of which you will find nowhere else that I know of. Don’t come here for old favourites. Chilli is present but not overpowering and spicing and flavouring are as original as the ingredien...
First of all this is a restaurant run by two women. In my youth women chefs were as rare as hens teeth and I have always waved the flag for women chefs, as I have grown up. Here the two women chef proprietors, via their mothers, aunts and grandmothers have created a wonderful menu of Malaysian style dishes all of which you will find nowhere else that I know of. Don’t come here for old favourites. Chilli is present but not overpowering and spicing and flavouring are as original as the ingredients. I hate congee, a sort of rice porridge, but at Mambow it is boiled, dried ,then steamed, cut into strips with a sauce added and is delicious. As you can see the chef owner was willing to take time to talk to me about what she was doing. The service was good enough, but could have been more polished, perhaps that is something they want to work on. Really only one waitress is all there is room for, but she was a bit rushed, being on her own. The place is crowded and noisy with a young person’s vibe, but the clientele when I visited was older and whatever vibe you seek you will find the food top class. The two deserts were lovely. Plenty to drink. Prices as cheap as can be managed in the current climate, so expect to spend £70 a head without alcohol. Or chose less and cheaper dishes. We had the stuffed skate which was wonderful as it should be at nearly £30 per portion. You order several dishes and share. The people at the next table ordered less dishes and presumably spent less. Lower Clapton Road, where the hell is that?....obviously in Hackney where it is leading the charge of a wave of new style restaurants. One thing check the address and number in Lower Clapton Road as the signage is as modest as the tastes are immodest. And the front door is hidden by a bus stop when there is a bus in it.
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VENUE DETAILS

78 Lower Clapton Road
Clapton
E5 0RNGB

Make a reservation

OTHER INFORMATION

Counter seating, Outdoor dining, Credit card required

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