25 Best Local Restaurants with a round on the house
Published 26 August 2025

'Well done, Bavette, for getting me outside the M25,' a reader cheers. Quite a way outside too, but the journey to Leeds was evidently worth it to dine at Sandy Jarvis and Clément Cousin's convivial neighbourhood bistro in the northerly suburb of Horsforth. Shelves of books on deep green walls create a smart domestic ambience, and the food does the rest.

It's a Franco-Yorkshire alliance in every sense (M Cousin hails from Anjou on the Loire), and the menu reflects that collaborative spirit. Start with pork and prune pâté en croûte with the house mustard for an inimitably Gallic appetiser experience. Starters might embrace light crab tartelette with fennel, pea shoots and saffron aïoli, before the speciality bavette makes an appearance, tricked out with French beans and frites – the kind of sturdy main course that won't let you down. A more domestic route might yield plaice with potted shrimps, rainbow chard and Jersey Royals.

Italian Candonga could well be a strawberry variety you haven't tried, appearing here in season on Basque cheesecake with yoghurt sorbet; otherwise, the dessert list is pure bistro French – perhaps St Emilion au chocolat or raspberry frangipane with matching sorbet. Wines delve into some of the less heavily trodden byways of France for Jurançon Sec, Gaillac and the Cousin family's own Anjou Cabernet Franc and Grolleau Gris.

‘Boy, would I prefer to keep it a secret for just us locals!’ If there’s one thing York residents, visitors and GFG reporters agree on, it’s the pleasure to be had from a meal at this enterprising hybrid café/restaurant, where fresh modern decor (dark panelled walls, light oak furniture, bright kilims) makes for a relaxed and genuinely welcoming experience. Tomasz Mlynarski and Marta Obuchowska, the enterprising Polish couple behind the Black Wheat Club, are ‘a breath of fresh air for the city’s food scene.’ They operate two services. By day, there's an informal drop-in brunch menu, where the likes of poached eggs with creamy goat’s cheese, pickled radish and pumpkin chilli oil on fabulous home-baked sourdough could be served alongside delicious pastries (we recommend the croissant cinnamon swirls) and very good coffee. In the evening, they ramp things up with a selection of tasty and inventive sharing plates based on superb local ingredients – perhaps grilled asparagus with ginger and anchovy butter beurre blanc or roast chicken ballotine stuffed with herbs and garlic. Expect a concise, intelligent, constantly changing and approachable wine list, too.

‘The whole vibe is incredible,’ writes a fan of this ‘absolutely fabulous’ family-run spot just off Saffron Walden's main square. Chater’s nods to its warehouse origins with high ceilings and polished concrete floors, while the kitchen taps into a local appetite for keenly priced food and good ingredients. Drop in for coffee and cake from 9am, or come for a simple Italian-style lunch, an aperitivo or a full evening meal. Small plates anchor the offer, from cured trout with horseradish and broccoli to chopped beef with crisps. If you're really hungry, a dish of homemade pasta sorts that out pronto: try the canestrini with pork shoulder and cime di rapa. Desserts keep it simple, with tiramisu perhaps lining up alongside white chocolate panna cotta and rhubarb. There is vigorous applause for the Negroni made with red vermouth from the Chater's Vault distillery next door, while Ark Pinot Gris from Mount Farm Vineyards near Sudbury is an appealing entry point on the wine list. Service is every bit as warm.

Sitting modestly amid the hustle and bustle of Levenshulme’s frenetic Stockport Road, Cibus has grown from a market stall to a consistently popular neighbourhood restaurant. Indeed, when you enter you could almost be in the Italian tratt of your dreams – 'it’s always a good sign when one hears diners speaking Italian with the staff,’ observed one reporter. During the pandemic, Cibus delivered pizzas to the housebound and that community-minded service continues.

At first glance, the menu might seem like a roll call of trattoria standards but it also features regularly refreshed regional specialities, coupled with a level of cooking, sourcing and service that would shame many a fancier joint. Alongside top-class Italian ingredients, the owners support local suppliers, and can regularly be seen shopping in the nearby market. Their approach is flexible. You can pop in for a glass of wine and some cicchetti (perhaps aubergine arancini, baked portobello mushrooms with salmoriglio dressing or cod cheeks with peperonata) or settle in for something more substantial – including traditional roasts with a twist on Sundays.

The mainstays of the menu are the highly rated, crispy sourdough pizzas and interesting pasta dishes – ravioli stuffed with salt cod or orecchiette with meatballs and braciole ragù, for example. In addition, there's always a meat dish of the week (perhaps Italian sausages with goat's cheese, mash, onion gravy and greens) as well as a catch of the day. To finish, check out the salted doughnuts fashioned from little parcels of pizza dough – although the ‘gorgeous’ limoncello and Prosecco sorbet also comes highly recommended. Cocktails and digestifs have an Italian accent, likewise the well-chosen craft beers and wine list.

A fine neighbourhood restaurant in a quarter of affluent north London not over-endowed with gastronomic options, Cinder is very much the personal project of Jake Finn, a second larger outpost to go with the original in Belsize Park. Filled with happy natter, it's the kind of place that easily persuades locals not to eat in their PJs at weekends, but throw something on and step out into the wide world instead.

A Josper flame oven is the heart of the operation, the menu working to the format of a fairly lengthy roster of small plates. Some grilled bread with garlicky tahini makes the most appetising start, ahead of one or two cold dishes full of sharply pointed seasoning. Spicy tuna ceviche with sweet potato and coriander or beetroots with feta will disappear like morning mist as soon as they hit the table. The condiment elements of each plate lift them into the realms of the memorable: Turkish Urfa chilli aïoli and red pepper relish laced with chilli oil accompany a trio of cod croquettes, while the satay-style purée of peanuts and cashews that came with our duck breast, red onions and lime leaves made a blackboard special truly special.

Desserts play it safe with decent crème brûlée and baked cheesecake, or there could be freshly cooked doughnuts enriched with BBQ banoffee sauce. The short wine list just about covers enough ground, and there are inspired cocktails too.

Hebden Bridge has always been a hotbed of laid-back cafés and cake shops, but a chic, boho wave has rippled through the stone-built town centre of late: one well-travelled visitor almost felt their compass needle juddering towards Hoxton. That said, the town is still Yorkshire through and through, and here is a place that suits it to a nicety – ‘unfailingly reliable, unerringly delicious, unremittingly relaxed … and brilliant value, too’.

It helps to pronounce Coin in the French manner, as it's on a corner site – a flatiron wedge of a building that was once (what else?) a bank. The decor also lends itself to that high-end vibe, with exposed brickwork, ironwork and plenty of space between the wooden tables. Young, casually dressed waiting staff are a delight, and are efficiently on top of their game.

An inspired and ever-changing sharing menu has plenty of modern brasserie energy, opening perhaps with a clutch of Lindisfarne oysters with lemon and Tabasco or a plate of yellow fine beans, Isle of Wight tomatoes, potato and capers. Wandering into the more robust precincts of the repertoire, one might stumble on gammon with new season’s leeks braised in Sheppy’s cider, while side orders of crispy Maris Peer potatoes with tomato salsa or puffed choux chips dusted in finely grated Parmesan should definitely not be passed up. There are also plates of excellent artisan charcuterie and cheeses (served with quince jelly and a Sevilla cracker). Classic desserts major on set creams and custards.

Fondue Sundays with Bloody Mary chasers sound like fun, likewise the adventurous list of low-intervention wines. In short, ‘Coin has the character, quality and consistency to keep drawing you back… whether it's just for a vermouth, a glass of wine or a long lazy meal with friends’.

A vibrant tribute to the town's evolving restaurant landscape, Counter Culture is driven by chef Ben Harrison, who offers diners a relaxed small-plates experience that marries Basque-inspired cuisine with modern British ways. ‘It feels like you have left your daily life for a taste of escapism and fun,’ commented one reporter. The place is deliberately informal, even if the bar area is now filled with more bookable tables. You can still walk in for a drink and a snack (including excellent gildas), although some of the backstreet San Sebastián vibe seems to have disappeared. The menu is now dominated by ‘brilliantly executed’ tapas plates, so expect the likes of Tresemble beef shin with milk bread, spinach, kohlrabi, and crispy onions or Cornish monkfish with chicken sauce, bacon, sea herbs and crushed peas. To finish, don’t miss the outstanding Basque cheesecake. Service comes with a true Spanish welcome, and the excellent drinks list runs from organic wines to bespoke vermouths made by Atlantic Brewery. In short, ‘the very best of what you look for in a local restaurant.’

‘The equivalent of being wrapped in a big hug,’ writes an ardent fan, adding that 'we always walk in feeling happy, and come out feeling even happier!’ This warm-hearted spot has been flying the flag for ‘delicious feel-good’ bistro food since Dan Fancett opened the place in 2021, and it scores in departments: the menu is stuffed with extremely well-balanced and superbly executed dishes, while the superb front of house team exude good cheer and do a consistently great job.

A set menu is tweaked daily and served in its simplest form at lunch (two choices per course), with a few more options for dinner. It fits the bistro vibe, though the repertoire strays deliciously beyond predictability – from a bowl of local asparagus soup with smoked chalk stream trout to hand-rolled cavatelli with Parmesan emulsion, spring vegetables and basil pistou. In the evening, the kitchen ups its ambition a notch or two, so you might find ceviche of sea bream with chilli and blood orange followed by calf’s liver with pancetta or a thoroughly Gallic combo of French guinea fowl breast with young leeks, white asparagus (French, of course) and a morel/vin jaune sauce. Finish perhaps with dark chocolate and hazelnut tart with pistachio ice cream – we’re in bistro territory, remember – or a sublime panna cotta with ginger and rhubarb.

Restaurant manager Theo Armyras is an engaging enthusiast of all things drinkable and will steer you towards such delicious offerings as a Spanish rosado from Rioja’s family-owned Bodegas Perica (at £11.50 a glass). Selections by the 500ml carafe keep proceedings true to bistro-dom, although there's always plenty to explore – from minerally Chablis Premier Cru, Thomas Labille ‘Montmains’ 2020 to big hitters from Bordeaux and the Rhône Valley.

‘From “oyster happy hour” to beautifully roasted sharing platters, this place has so many nuances to keep locals coming back, and to drag Edinburgh’s food fanatics away from Stockbridge and Leith,’ noted a fan of this ‘relentlessly good’ neighbourhood bistro in Bruntsfield. Fans of tinned fish and other booze-friendly snacks make a beeline for the broody little wine bar in the basement, although the main action takes place in the bright, unfussy dining room at street level. Despite the postcode, chef-patron Stuart Smith’s cooking is anything but parochial, and he is currently delivering some of the best seafood in the city.

Small plates form the bulk of the menu, backed up by ‘market fish’ specials (perhaps ‘perfectly cooked’ John Dory on the bone accompanied by pak choi, carrots, fries and aïoli). Salt cod mousse with herb oil and grilled sourdough is a fixture, but also look for wonderfully sweet Gairloch langoustines with emerald-hued wild garlic mayo or pickled mussels with carrot, buckwheat and fermented peach hot sauce. Away from the sea, you might find Denhead Farm asparagus with white beans, walnut and guanciale or slow-cooked lamb shoulder accompanied by friggitelli peppers, roasted onion and goat’s curd.

For afters, readers have singled out a ‘suitably tart’ lemon posset and a well-judged chocolate mousse with miso caramel and hazelnuts. The comprehensive but accessible wine list has a distinctly French accent and at least a dozen options by the glass, while a separate, more indulgent 'cellar list' is available for those seeking to mark an occasion – or to create one.

‘Cromer is so very, very lucky to have this restaurant in its midst,’ enthused one reporter – delighted that Fino has lifted the town’s seaside spirit and added a touch of effortless cosmopolitan cool. The front bar serves as an informal drop-in, but co-host Ruth Butler’s colourful paintings and the sheer warmth and hospitality of the place will lure you into the smart, blue-hued dining room. There’s a simple elegance to the seasonally changing menu, which is peppered with prime produce from Norfolk and beyond. Cromer crabs are one of the stars (perhaps served with asparagus, spicy tomato syrup and hollandaise foam), while larger plates could plunder the local catch for skate wing or line-caught halibut (with wild rocket vichyssoise), as well as championing Norfolk game (red deer with molasses labneh and sorrel verde, say). There’s plenty of enthusiasm for desserts such as caramelised white chocolate tart, too. Also check out the ‘exceptional-value’ daily lunch specials (£17). Wines by the glass or Lyonnaise pot encourage exploration, while a line-up of unfiltered sherries is a nod to the restaurant’s namesake.

An enterprising local resource par excellence, this ‘really cool’ spot spreads itself like proved dough over two floors of a Grade II-listed building on thriving Trinity Square. The adjoining Hearth Bakery (open Thu-Sun) is great for daytime sustenance (as well as bread), while the first-floor restaurant is in the hands of Ryan Telford, who has stints with big-name chefs including Bruce Poole and Phil Howard under his belt. Each area of the place has its own allurements: perhaps partake of an orange espresso Martini before beginning your ascent.

The format of small plates preceding larger ones may be par for the course, although the smaller items are quite substantial in themselves. Roasted bone marrow with sourdough, parsley and shallot salad has a familiar nose-to-tail ring about it, while Szechuan honey-fried chicken with roasted sesame seeds and smacked cucumber takes its cue from the global larder. If you've paced yourself sufficiently, move on to BBQ salmon with dashi, sea herbs and pickled apple, grilled pork pluma with fennel, choucroute, chanterelles and mustard velouté or a mixed grill for two (open-fire cooking is high on the agenda here).

On Sundays, there are roasts to beat the band (including fish and veggie options), prior to seasonal fruit crumbles, chocolate fudge cake or sticky toffee pudding with bourbon-laced toffee sauce and custard. The good-hearted friendliness of the impressively knowledgeable staff is commended by one and all (‘some of the waitresses are pure sunshine,’ noted one regular). Slates of tangy whites and savoury reds by the glass lead off a wine list that inspires confidence, and bespoke pairings also receive a big thumbs-up.

The sophisticated big sister to Slad’s Woolpack Inn, this all-day bistro marries a modern European menu with a decidedly old-world French vibe. Large windows flood the long, narrow white room with light, while linen-draped tables, black leather banquettes, rich mahogany sideboards and a parquet floor evoke the understated elegance of a bygone era.

The menu is arranged as a series of sharing plates of escalating size, brought in order, so that one might start with an oyster or oeuf mayonnaise from the snacks, before a more substantial dish of clams with Tropea onion and asparagus or beef tartare with pommes allumettes. Portions are generous, with the final dishes (maybe a butterflied mackerel scattered with agretti and bottarga) the size of a conventional main course.

Will Rees (formerly head chef at Wilsons in Bristol) and Oliver Gyde spin magic from sustainably sourced local ingredients, including salad leaves grown in owner Dan Chadwick’s walled garden at nearby Lypiatt Park. Lashings of grass-green olive oil, presumably not locally produced but none the less delicious for it, enriches many dishes and looks so pretty against the white plates. The standout from the short dessert menu is a decidedly grown-up apple tarte tatin, caramelised to within an inch of its life and served with crème fraîche.

Should you wish to take advantage of the impressive list of low-intervention and artisanal wines, Stroud train station is a mere stumble away. Service from the team of young, passionate staff brims with pride and enthusiasm.

‘Always delicious. Always seasonal,’ proclaims one reporter, while another notes that James Carn’s classy venue is ‘totally focused on delivering a culinary experience with personality’. There are a few tables on the pavement and the interior is plainly furnished in café style, complete with a variety of soothing pictures, while service comes from a knowledgeable and passionate team who know how to take care of their customers. A thoroughly modern menu kicks off with an ample choice of nibbles and small plates ranging from cep arancini to cured Suffolk sea bass paired with horseradish, kohlrabi and tartare sauce. As the plates get larger, the combinations of flavours and textures become more artful and stimulating – as in spatchcock quail with black-bean purée and Padrón peppers. At the finishing line, desserts mobilise vivid fruit flavours and there’s often a seasonal trifle too (perhaps cherry and white chocolate). Wines are an imaginative spread offered at prices it's hard to argue with – even at the top end, where some glittering vinous treasures await. In short, ‘the perfect local spot.’

A genuine restaurant du quartier, if ever there was, this Crouch End spot is run by the titular duo of Robert Reid at the stoves and Jean-Christophe Slowik (JC, to the army of regulars) out front. If only one of them is French, he is at least bubbling over with enough unabashed Gallic bonhomie for two. Battleship-grey panelling, undressed tables and a trio of blackboards busily covered in numerous chalk-scribbled specials form a backdrop to Reid's assured bourgeois cooking.

You might easily guess what's on the menu, sight unseen (soupe à l'oignon gratinée, garlic-buttered escargots, Bayonne ham with celeriac rémoulade for starters), although you might not anticipate the panache with which the dishes are realised – or the uncommon quality of the raw materials. Moving on, mains might bring entrecôte or ribeye steaks with béarnaise sauce and piles of frites or smoked haddock in mustard sauce topped with a poached egg.

The non-meat alternative of, say, artichokes with ratatouille and chickpeas in cumin-scented roast tomato sauce shows more consideration for veggies than you might find in many a traditional French bistro. Finish with rum baba and apricot compôte or tarte fine aux pommes. A French wine list covers all bases, with glasses from £7.95, plus still or sparkling Kir to start.

Here is an off-centre hot spot with USP coming out of its ears. Nicole Yeoh and James Harris have set up camp in a smartly tended Winchester pub, the Green Man, to offer sparkling Malaysian/Chinese-inspired cooking that reflects Nicole's upbringing in Penang. It's a winning formula, as is reflected by the torrent of Best Local Restaurant nominations Lucky Lychee receives: 'we try to get here at least once a month for their roti brunch,' noted one regular. Reporters love the lively ambience, the adventurous approach to food and drink pairings and, of course, the razor-sharp precision and invigorating freshness of the cooking. Nicole weaves her magic with a mix of traditional dishes and seasonal awareness, drawing on regionally sourced produce as well as the assertive seasonings and spices of her culinary heritage Off-piste signature turns involve marinating fried chicken in honey and Marmite, with oyster sauce and toasted peanuts in the mix. House-made cordials, South-east Asian softs, orange wines and fizz all help to make this a happy place.

An attractive, modern-looking spot in a parade of shops in the heart of Rhiwbina (a suburb of Cardiff), Mesen offers a relaxed take on contemporary small-plate dining. On the day we visited, it was gloriously sunny and the whole frontage had been opened up to create an alfresco feel, with chairs and tables laid out on the street. Inside, there’s plenty of wood, leather and modern art, with a view into the kitchen at the rear.

The cooking is charcoal-fired, pairing chargrilled meat and fish with fresh, zesty flavours. The juicy, crunchy-skinned charcoal chicken, perfectly matched with ripe peach, cucumber and a fruity dressing, is a case in point, but it's easy to forgo meat altogether with the likes of plump, cheese-filled gnocchi, lightly charred and dressed in a lively walnut pesto. Geographically, the reach is broad, from various rösti and tostadas – perfectly soft and crisp, topped with tender pork belly and a fruity salsa – to rib of beef with Café de Paris butter or native lobster with confit garlic and finger lime.

The charcoal fire also services desserts such as grilled pineapple with grapefruit sorbet, and the whole offering sits comfortably alongside a thoughtful selection of European wines. In addition, there’s a real feeling of team spirit about the place – expect efficiency, friendliness and attention to detail throughout.

*The restaurant closed permanently on 17 April 2026 and will be relocating to The Old Point House in Angle on the Pembrokeshire coast.*

A 'field to fork' farmstead restaurant is always a bracing proposition, and this one, deep in the Pembrokeshire wilds is no exception. Whatever beaten track there might be hereabouts (actually the B4320 near Hundleton), they're off it. It's a testament to the success of the formula that somewhere so remote can still receive as many nominations as it does for our Best Local Restaurant awards, with the super-friendly, helpful and enthusiastic staff receiving lots of plaudits.

You eat in the former milking parlour, perhaps snuggled into one of the old stalls, beneath clumps of pampas hanging from the rafters, with an open kitchen at one end generating a steady stream of ingenious and heterogeneous plates from Michelle Evans' fertile culinary imagination.The seasonal set menu is a rolling feast that changes every day depending on supplies from the farm and beyond, but the following should give a clue to the kind of food on offer: asparagus with crab, pickled chilli, lemon and dill, with the brown meat folded through a silky mayonnaise; baked whole bream with romesco; glossy, golden-crusted mutton, leek and smoked Snowdonia cheese pie served with garden kale and Café de Paris butter. Veggie options are always intriguing too – perhaps wild mushroom and truffle arancini or BBQ hispi cabbage lathered in umami-rich miso butter with some chilli heat and soothing, creamy aïoli.

Dessert could bring chocolate mousse or cherry and tahini ice cream; otherwise, opt for a plate of Welsh cheeses. There might also be honey madeleines by the half dozen, too. 'Even the drinks are in season,' gasped one reporter, wholly appreciative of a rhubarbed-up version of pisco sour – although there are some 'fantastic natural wines from a young importer,' too.

‘On another day, I would have walked past this tiny place and not noticed it,’ commented one reporter after discovering Piccalilli – a ‘hidden gem’ from veteran Nottingham chef Dan Coles. Expect ‘locally sourced and seasonal menus delivered with care and confidence’, all prepared in a tiny open-to-view kitchen. Welsh rarebit croquettes with punchy walnut ketchup might kick things off, ahead of an array of vegetables, fish and meat options – perhaps new season’s asparagus with another croquette (‘actually a cunningly disguised boiled egg’), hake with Cornish potatoes, samphire and parsley sauce or lamb rump with spring pea salad and anchoïade. Dessert might be something enterprising such as parsnip cake with salted butterscotch and goat’s-milk ice cream. To drink, Cidentro cider from Melton Mowbray, plus beers from local names including Lenton Lane Brewery, line up alongside cocktails and a slate of reasonably priced wines. Value for money is assured, especially with the option of a fairly priced set deal, while regular themed nights and special Sunday lunch sessions add to the local fun.

‘Always full of Newnham locals’ (especially when the excellent-value lunch deal is available), this beautifully restored Post Office building is now a fantastic boutique bistro and bottle shop that is enhancing the town’s already ‘cool’ reputation. Owners Ben Thompson and Florence de Maré are both successful designers, and it shows. ‘Ever-present’ head chef Fred Page (ex-Marle at Heckfield Place) commands the room from behind a high-top counter surrounding his open kitchen, but wherever you sit, there are no bad spots here. Likewise, there are no bad choices on Page’s weekly changing menus. Everything is made in-house, from the cordial in your rhubarb Bellini to the unbelievably crispy olive oil-soaked spelt rolls, and Page’s small plates tease out the very best from locally sourced ingredients. Feast on an oozingly rich pig’s head croquette or saltfish beignets before tackling a beef-heart tortilla with chimichurri and chipotle or chalk stream trout with slow-cooked cuttlefish and chickpea stew – ‘all beautifully thought out and presented with an impressive choice of accompanying wines.’ Delightfully warm, personal service makes you feel like an old friend. 

Neil Bentinck took York by storm when he arrived in 2016 and started serving exciting, inventive modern dishes with a pan-Asian twist. Since then, he has barely put a foot wrong, earning Skosh something of a cult following – scoring a table means booking well in advance. There’s nothing showy about the 40-seater restaurant, a palette of grey and yellow, rustic hand-thrown crockery and wooden tables, with a row of stools at the chef's table overlooking the open kitchen.

The name Skosh is a contraction of the Japanese word sukoshi (meaning small), a clue that the kitchen delivers small plates – around 25 of them at prices ranging from a few pounds for a Lindisfarne oyster with cucumber and jalapeño granita to just under a tenner for miso-glazed hake with courgette, pickled lemon and sunflower-seed pesto. You could limit yourself to three dishes per person, but it's worth splashing out – especially when the line-up promises fried popcorn chicken (with a sweetcorn sauce and Thai basil), cauliflower pakoras with mint, tamarind and yoghurt, or tandoori pigeon skewers. It’s only a mouthful, but a cube of sea trout cured in kecap manis (sweet soy sauce), topped with marshmallow and finished with peanut and lime is outstanding, while their lovely sourdough is served with Acorn Dairy butter and gunpowder salt.

And if there is one unmissable item, it’s ‘hen’s egg’, a dish that has been on the menu since day one: a ceramic eggshell is filled with a mousse of Summerfield's cheese, but dig down and you'll find a mix of egg yolk, crunchy crumbs, leeks, black vinegar and sweet sherry (ingredients are tweaked from time to time). Drinks are equally eclectic, from seasonal cocktails and craft beers to a slate of global wines. 

At this pint-sized wine shop, bar and café, it was once a case of turning up and hoping, but an online booking system now ensures the avoidance of disappointment. And disappointed you would be if you were to miss the locally supplied menu on offer here. Start with smart nibbles of anchovy and ricotta crostini or the covetable air-dried mangalitza ham from Coombeshead Farm (with some Coombeshead sourdough on the side).

A spring visitor gasped at the deliciousness of St Eia's take on the classic rarebit, as well as Newlyn crab piled heftily on toast and served with cucumber pickle. Vividly dressed salads might mobilise Stichelton, pear, walnuts, quince and radicchio into a colourful assemblage, but heartier appetites are not neglected either –especially when platefuls of beef bourguignon and mash are at hand.

Neal's Yard cheeses are hard to resist in the context, but sweet things range from lemon posset to mincemeat frangipane tart with clotted cream. An excellent wine list embraces much from the biodynamic and skin-contact universe. A glass of something inspiring might tempt you to take home a bottle of it from the well-stocked shelves.

‘Still the standout restaurant in the area and a credit to Pen Llyn,’ declared a fan of this bistro tucked discreetly between a butcher's and a bakery in the seaside village of Abersoch. It's a front-room bistro operation done in soothing neutral colours, with calming lake views on the walls to counterpoint the happy buzz of customers. Chef-owner Si Toft is on a mission to showcase the best Welsh produce and runs a tight ship: expect Anglesey black beef, Cardigan Bay fish and Penderyn whisky to crop up regularly on the frequently changing menus. Smoked haddock with a potato scone and laverbread butter sets the tone, but there are more modern offerings too – from red mullet with lentil salad to prime Welsh lamb rump with caramelised cauliflower, pomegranate and mint dressing. A canny understanding of sweet treats results in wacky ice lollies (perhaps rhubarb and custard) as well as classic dark chocolate torte with Aperol sorbet. Cocktails are great fun, while the wine selection includes some of the new generation of Welsh producers.

With prime raw materials harvested from the day-boats less than 40 metres from its front door, the laid-back Dory Bistro ensures that Pittenweem is amply supplied with ‘classy food all year round’. Ruth Robinson's kitchen teems with Cumbrae oysters, lobsters, crabs, langoustines and locally landed fish – not to mention garden pickings and game from nearby estates – and there’s an art gallery to wander around while you work up an appetite. The regular menu makes all kinds of classic moves, culminating in the ‘catch of the day’ served with seaweed and sorrel beurre blanc. The kitchen’s clean, classic style (‘with a touch of adventure’) also shows in desserts such as a layered vanilla and miso ice cream with miso pearls. Visitors applaud the specials board too – particularly as it also features ‘the most amazing aperitifs’. As for wine, expect plenty of on-trend varietal whites to match the fish-friendly menu. Wonderfully friendly local staff add to the pleasure of eating at this harbourfront gem.

In a Devon barn where grain was once threshed, the Lost Kitchen inspires readers with fresh ideas, a menu supplied by local farmers, and wood-fired cooking that scores highly on the all-important 'scrumptiousness' scale. A gorgeous terrace overlooking the gardens is a must when the sun comes out. Sharing plates mobilise plenty of assertive flavours, as do the tempting pizza variations, while grilling and roasting bring out the best in meat, fish and veggie options. A flexible approach means you can pop in for cake and a hot drink at most times, but tables go quickly for main meals, so always book ahead. West Country cheeses and multi-layered fruity desserts are not to be missed. Everyone agrees that the phenomenal staff help make this an experience to remember, as does the in-house beer and cider brewing. Meanwhile, there are enough wines by the glass to ring the changes for repeat visits.

It may be tiny, with just four tables and a counter across the window, but the Small Canteen has a big heart. ‘Like dining in an old friend’s house,' notes one. The concise menu is squashed and smudged onto a blackboard in Sam Betts’ ever-so-slightly chaotic ship, which is run with immense verve and generosity. Start with good chewy bread plus sprightly dips, before moving on to a bowl of crab broth with tortellini or a heart-warming plateful of braised ox cheek with potatoes, carrots and bacon. Everything here is rich, abundant and delicious. Customers feel 'part of something special’, and tables are so closely packed you get to know your neighbours, who may also provide good reports of puds such as pear and polenta cake with honey and pistachio. We don’t know how Betts manages to pull off such a ‘masterclass of creativity and restraint,’ but we are very glad he does – especially when the blackboard also lists cocktails, juices and organic lemonade. Otherwise, there are organic wines by the carafe and obscure craft beers, too.