Lucky Lychee

With so many chains dominating the centre of Winchester, it's refreshing to discover James Harris and Nicole Yeoh’s impeccable Malaysian restaurant, just a 10-minute walk away. The couple have taken over the Green Man pub and created an inviting, welcoming space. Serene, confident and much-loved locally, it’s a draw for those dining for pleasure, or when a relatively informal meal is in order – several tables were tucking into the £13 early-evening express dinner of 'night market' fried chicken (or oyster mushrooms) with jasmine rice and a sweet-sour mango and cucumber salad when we visited.

The menu, divided into small and large plates, combines carefully sourced British ingredients with a fusion of Chinese and Malay culinary traditions from Nicole’s Nyonya heritage: chargrilled beef satay, for example, showcases medium-rare Hampshire bavette steak that’s been marinated in galangal, ginger, tamarind and sweet soy butter, accompanied by a wonderful wild garlic sambal (foraged by James). South Coast day boats provide the seafood for dishes such as hot-and-sour poached monkfish tail, or there could be a vivid pairing of Wye Valley asparagus with burnt tomato and garlic confit sambal.

A highlight of our visit was char sui pork neck (from Sussex), marinated in Cantonese BBQ sauce and grilled to perfect tenderness, with hoisin and black cherry glaze, orange chilli sauce and English pak choi. Desserts are in a similar vein, from banana spring rolls to pandan burnt Basque cheesecake served with Hampshire strawberries. The bar offers keg, cask or bottled beers and a creative selection of vibrant cocktails, while everything on the enterprising spice-friendly list of global wines comes by the glass or bottle.