For part of the nineties and noughties, the town’s foodie reputation rested with one late, sadly missed star: crazy diamond Paul Kitching, whose accuracy, finesse and creativity made fine-dining Juniper a huge draw. Now it’s the reborn and much-imitated Altrincham Market, brainchild of Jenny Thompson MBE and Nick Johnson MBE, which has created a whole new culinary ecosystem.
Space at the shared refectory tables in their grand old Market House is at an understandable premium, creating a frenetic but satisfied buzz. Many reputations have been launched from the counters that line the food hall, where you order on-app and wait for runners to deliver the goods.
Among the most celebrated vendors are Rubens Mezze Grill, whose wraps are always right, and Honest Crust. Sourdough pizza-slingers of impeccable quality, Richard Carver’s outfit also has a real commitment to community, producers, and making great salads. To take away, chocolatier Sam Joseph’s caramel brownie and other dessert bars are as finely-made as their handcrafted truffles, but they’ll also do you a good pudding. Every business here has earnt their spot, and out on the other side in the covered market, multi-garlanded sourdough bakery Lovingly Artisan is a must-do for its dark rye, heritage grains and enriched speciality loaves.
As is so often the way, a clutch of great food businesses has been attracted to the surrounding streets. Family café and bakery Most, its glass cases fit to burst with a huge range of cruffins, knots, swirls and pains suisses, is a gooier counterpoint to Lovingly Artisan.
Tapas bar Porta, which also has sites in Chester, Salford and now West Didsbury, has a cosy, cave-like appeal and a handful of outside tables. The menu is reassuringly short and rammed with classics like Picos de Europa with caramelised walnuts, sultanas and honey or tenderstem with romesco sauce and almonds; specials like Galician octopus with paprika and octopus keep things interesting.
Nearby you’ll find Rigatoni’s, a close-quarters pasta specialist offering robust, flavour-forward dishes including soupy broccolini with anchovy butter, chicken stock and pangrattato, and southern Italian wines sourced by the Market’s resident wine bar, Reserve.
The Italian specialisms continue on Stamford New Road at Bar Etna, Sicilian to its core and family-friendly to the extent that it offers a play area and the occasional free cuddle. Clamber past the buggies to peruse shelves laden with cannoli shells and gaudy pottery, but stay in your seat for rich pasta con le sarde or brioche stuffed with gelato. Also on this strip is Harcourt the Hong Kong-style pub with an extensive tap list including its own collaboration with local heroes Cloudwater, and beer measures starting at a third of a pint. The street food and main dishes here are by turns punchy, crunchy, subtle and masterfully fried, and the syrup-soaked Hong Kong French toast is a thing of eggy legend.
On a sunny day Altrincham can feel like the centre of its own coffee-washed little universe (try the Federal cart or friendly California Coffee & Wine, but it’s worth a mooch on the fringes. On busy Manchester Road, Asuke Sushi deals playfully with the reality of running a Japanese restaurant in a relatively small town; a little bit of everything, including sushi tacos and poke bowls, served to a swinging soundtrack.
On the other side of town, no visit to Alty FC’s Moss Lane ground should pass without bobbing into The Good Catch for Trafford’s finest fish and chips with tubs of homemade tartare sauce, and no walk round Stamford Park to feed the ducks is complete without a doughnut from A Bloc, whose coffee and walnut yum yum would be wasted on wildfowl.
