Counter Culture

A vibrant tribute to the town's evolving restaurant landscape, Counter Culture is driven by chef Ben Harrison, who offers diners a relaxed small-plates experience that marries Basque-inspired cuisine with modern British ways. ‘It feels like you have left your daily life for a taste of escapism and fun,’ commented one reporter. The place is deliberately informal, even if the bar area is now filled with more bookable tables. You can still walk in for a drink and a snack (including excellent gildas), although some of the backstreet San Sebastián vibe seems to have disappeared. The menu is now dominated by ‘brilliantly executed’ tapas plates, so expect the likes of Tresemble beef shin with milk bread, spinach, kohlrabi, and crispy onions or Cornish monkfish with chicken sauce, bacon, sea herbs and crushed peas. To finish, don’t miss the outstanding Basque cheesecake. Service comes with a true Spanish welcome, and the excellent drinks list runs from organic wines to bespoke vermouths made by Atlantic Brewery. In short, ‘the very best of what you look for in a local restaurant.’