Member perks at 2023’s Best Local Restaurants
Published 30 May 2024

Playing a starring role at the Artisan Market in Edgbaston, Chapter covers a lot of bases in one stylish, streamlined package. Weekend breakfasts should start the day as you mean it to go on, a smart bar with glitzy cocktails opens out to a terrace for drinking in the Birmingham sun, and dining takes place in a smartly attired room with op-art banquettes and an open kitchen. It all looks great (or 'annoyingly photogenic, if your partner insists on snapping') and the whole show is run by a team of impressively knowledgeable staff. Menus (fixed-price or carte) deal in the kind of modern brasserie dishes that city-dwellers love to eat: Caesar salad made with smoked mackerel; ham hock rarebit; chicken ballotine with couscous and chimichurri; market fish in, say, curried cream or lemon and caper butter. Simple bistro desserts won't lack for takers when it comes to strawberry pavlova or a chocolate and pistachio mousse topped with raspberries and a brandy snap. Sunday roasts are an invaluable local amenity, especially for locals who are partial to crackled pork rack or dry-aged beef rump with Yorkshire pud, perhaps served with a side of cauliflower cheese. Drappier Champagnes head up a by-the-glass wine list that isn't pedantic enough to give vintage dates, even for the reds.

Hebden Bridge has always been a hotbed of laid-back cafés and cake shops, but a chic, boho wave has rippled through the stone-built town centre of late: one well-travelled visitor almost felt their compass needle juddering towards Hoxton. That said, the town is still Yorkshire through and through, and here is a place that suits it to a nicety – ‘unfailingly reliable, unerringly delicious, unremittingly relaxed … and brilliant value, too’.

It helps to pronounce Coin in the French manner, as it's on a corner site – a flatiron wedge of a building that was once (what else?) a bank. The decor also lends itself to that high-end vibe, with exposed brickwork, ironwork and plenty of space between the wooden tables. Young, casually dressed waiting staff are a delight, and are efficiently on top of their game.

An inspired and ever-changing sharing menu has plenty of modern brasserie energy, opening perhaps with a clutch of Lindisfarne oysters with lemon and Tabasco or a plate of yellow fine beans, Isle of Wight tomatoes, potato and capers. Wandering into the more robust precincts of the repertoire, one might stumble on gammon with new season’s leeks braised in Sheppy’s cider, while side orders of crispy Maris Peer potatoes with tomato salsa or puffed choux chips dusted in finely grated Parmesan should definitely not be passed up. There are also plates of excellent artisan charcuterie and cheeses (served with quince jelly and a Sevilla cracker). Classic desserts major on set creams and custards.

Fondue Sundays with Bloody Mary chasers sound like fun, likewise the adventurous list of low-intervention wines. In short, ‘Coin has the character, quality and consistency to keep drawing you back… whether it's just for a vermouth, a glass of wine or a long lazy meal with friends’.

Rightly valued by locals who feel 'so lucky' to have this airy, family-run bistro on their doorstep, Four & Twenty is a true indie. In a Lakeland town, that means being something to everyone – which is accomplished by bringing local ingredients and good technique to every occasion. Consequently, a celebratory dinner with good-value matched wines looks just as 'seasonally superb' as a speedy (and terrific value) set lunch. The 'spectacular' signature Cheddar cheese soufflé, twice-baked and incredibly light, is a reliable way to start, or try a house-made pressed terrine of Cumbrian pork and chorizo (perfect with a glass of Penny Lane Pinot Noir from New Zealand). To follow, the 'attention to detail' that customers love sees smoked butter added to a pile of crushed potatoes in a dish of well-timed cod, summer vegetables and chive butter sauce, or some locally produced St James cheese added to the veggie lasagne (packed with wood-roasted peppers and spring vegetables). Everything is generously served, including desserts such as sticky toffee pudding or an airy upside-down strawberry cheesecake, scattered with shortbread crumbs and accompanied by a scoop of strawberry ripple ice cream; if that's too much to contemplate, coffee and (local) toffee might fit the bill. 

The intersection of Fourth Avenue and Church Road provides the distinctly American-sounding name of this popular wine shop and eatery opposite the old Hove Town Hall. With its bottle-stacked shelves and counter seating, the whole place feels assiduously dedicated to the business of serious (but fun) eating and drinking, and while the ethos of mixing and matching plates has effectively evolved backwards (as elsewhere) into the considerably more antiquated mode of a smaller plate followed by a larger one, the net is still flung wide for inspiration. Pickling and preserving are enthusiastically favoured. Cured chalkstream trout with saffron-pickled endive in blackcurrant-leaf oil might compete with aubergine miso in katsu with pickled carrots or prosciutto di Parma with flat peach panzanella and black garlic glaze. Among the larger possibilities may be rump of Herdwick hogget with goat's curd in lamb and basil dressing, or sea bass offset with a torrent of assertive flavours from seaweed gnocchi, sorrel and fermented blueberries. And with a whole world of appetising nibbles ranging from whipped cod's roe to houmous with preserved lemon, zaatar and lavosh crackers, no appetite need go unsatiated. Just make sure to leave room for the banana parfait, fennel-pollen panna cotta or affogato with a tot of Pedro Ximénez. If you enjoyed the glass or two of wine you tried with the food, buy a bottle to take home. The stylistically arranged list has been chosen with an authoritative nose and palate. Small glasses start at £7, half-bottle measures at £18.

An enterprising local resource par excellence, this ‘really cool’ spot spreads itself like proved dough over two floors of a Grade II-listed building on thriving Trinity Square. The adjoining Hearth Bakery (open Thu-Sun) is great for daytime sustenance (as well as bread), while the first-floor restaurant is in the hands of Ryan Telford, who has stints with big-name chefs including Bruce Poole and Phil Howard under his belt. Each area of the place has its own allurements: perhaps partake of an orange espresso Martini before beginning your ascent.

The format of small plates preceding larger ones may be par for the course, although the smaller items are quite substantial in themselves. Roasted bone marrow with sourdough, parsley and shallot salad has a familiar nose-to-tail ring about it, while Szechuan honey-fried chicken with roasted sesame seeds and smacked cucumber takes its cue from the global larder. If you've paced yourself sufficiently, move on to BBQ salmon with dashi, sea herbs and pickled apple, grilled pork pluma with fennel, choucroute, chanterelles and mustard velouté or a mixed grill for two (open-fire cooking is high on the agenda here).

On Sundays, there are roasts to beat the band (including fish and veggie options), prior to seasonal fruit crumbles, chocolate fudge cake or sticky toffee pudding with bourbon-laced toffee sauce and custard. The good-hearted friendliness of the impressively knowledgeable staff is commended by one and all (‘some of the waitresses are pure sunshine,’ noted one regular). Slates of tangy whites and savoury reds by the glass lead off a wine list that inspires confidence, and bespoke pairings also receive a big thumbs-up.

Students of regional British food will know all about ‘singing hinnies’ – a type of griddled scone once popular in Northumbria’s mining communities. ‘Hinny’ is also a local term of endearment. It's a fitting name for this family-friendly seafront venue specialising in trencherman helpings of self-styled ‘Geordie comfort food'. Loyal fans keeps things convivial even in winter, while a front terrace comes into play during the summer, but wherever you sit, expect canny service from bright young staff who know their way around the menu.

The kitchen is proud to cook everything ‘properly from scratch’, be it homemade black pudding with serrano ham, poached egg and mustard dressing, haggis Scotch eggs with rhubarb ketchup or that traditional Geordie hotchpotch, pan haggerty with winter vegetables. Fish from North Shields also gets an outing, from crispy squid with piquillo pepper, saffron and chilli aïoli to whole grilled sole with sautéed new potatoes and minted mushy peas. If meat is what you crave, look no further than the beef featherblade braised in red wine and served with celeriac purée and chickpea chips.

Singing hinnies finally put in an appearance when it comes to dessert, spread with fruity jam and Chantilly cream, or you could tuck into the kitchen's ‘legendary’ sticky toffee pudding slathered in salted caramel. To drink, local ales such as Blackfriars St Dominic’s or Ouseburn porter from the Hadrian Border Brewery make a worthwhile alternative to the varied choice of wines and cocktails.

A little slice of French bonhomie in north Oxford, Pompette is not only a godsend for Summertown locals, but also draws in diners who are prepared to undertake a long trip to sample its wares. With its walls emblazoned with artwork, a gorgeous summertime terrace and professional but personable staff, no wonder it is reckoned to be ‘a real gem’. And that’s before we get to the food. Chef/co-owner Pascal Wiedemann spent 14 years shaking the pans in big-name London kitchens (from Racine and Terroirs to Six Portland Road), before bringing his vision of bourgeois French cuisine to the city of dreaming spires. 

His menu is entrenched in the classics (with the odd European detour) and everything is crafted with ‘care, passion and precision’. Lyonnaise ‘cervelle de canut’ cheese dip, soupe de poissons, chalk stream trout with horseradish beurre blanc and onglet steaks share the billing with houmous, sumac and flatbread, cavatelli with datterini tomatoes and pecorino or charred cauliflower with pops of pomegranate and pistachio. French farmhouse cheeses, île flottante, Basque cheesecake and canelés de Bordeaux with salted rum caramel (Friday and Saturday nights only) round off a simple but satisfying offer. 

Alternatively, drop by for authentic French saucisse frites on Tuesday, poulet frites on Wednesday or steak frites on Thursday night, if you prefer; they even do a proper petit-déjeuner from 10am as well as a regular apero hour (5-6pm, Tue-Sat). Pompette is the charming French word for tipsy, so we do need to mention the libations: Ricard, Lillet Blanc, Picon Bière and Normandy cider all get a look-in alongside a list of patriotically French wines – including a big selection from Alsace (the owner’s homeland).

‘Brilliant cooking, kind owners, great team, seriously reasonable pricing,' commented a fan of this well-liked venture from Ben Hughes and Rafael Lopez (formerly at the Goods Shed in Canterbury). The intimate, simply decorated restaurant in a small Victorian seaside town two miles east of Margate really is a breath of fresh air. Seasonality is at the heart of the compact menu – this is where local means local – and the two chefs prove their pedigree by following the calendar unerringly. They also have no truck with bizarre marriages of ingredients or avant-garde techniques. Game season, for example, has delivered a fabulous roast partridge breast and confit legs accompanied by nothing more than a dollop of bread sauce, watercress (fresh and puréed) and roasting juices. This dish came from the excellent-value set lunch (preceded by a delicate Crown Prince squash and Shropshire Blue tart), but the brief, regularly changing carte exudes an elegant simplicity in presentation and flavour, too. A starter of beautifully judged, meltingly tender ox cheek with cauliflower and mustard cream could be followed by a perfectly timed hake fillet with salsify and mussels in a pool of rich, pungent, aromatic saffron sauce. We also lapped up the showstopping finale – a cheese course of creamy, semi-soft Burwash Rose, turned into something extraordinary with the addition of a slice of carrot cake and a dash of sweet quince purée. This is triumphant cooking, displaying an instinctive feel for what is right and natural on the plate. The wine list is built on interest, appeal and value, with good choice by the glass and bottle (from £25.75).

It might not boast sea views, but this low-slung little restaurant in a pretty coastal village on the shores of the Moray Firth does have a sunny little beer garden, while the interiors exude a cool, vintage seaside-chic vibe. Ruth and Barry Scott care about provenance, with a blackboard by the door highlighting local producers from Moray and beyond: haddock and monkfish from Peterhead, 'langoustines straight from the harbour' and the 'best hand-dived scallops ever tasted'. Starters on the all-day menu include a moreish salad of roasted beets, braised leeks, lightly whipped feta and walnuts alongside deliciously spicy Thai-style Shetland mussels. To follow, the seafood chowder with crispy gnocchi and zhoug in a fiery chilli and coriander sauce is a creamy medley of piscine pleasures, while steaks and seasonal game provide a more meaty alternative. Dessert might bring an orange and almond cake with tart raspberry sorbet or indulgently retro knickerbocker glory. Bread and cakes are baked in-house, and there's a range of artisan, stone-baked pizzas and pizzette topped with, say, salty anchovies and salsa verde or rosemary, sea salt and olive oil. To drink, the craft beer is from the Spey Valley and the Salty Dog house gin is made by the Benromach Distillery in Forres, although the wine, produced by the owners' friends at Albet i Noya in Catalonia (the first organic vineyard in Spain), has further to travel. Factor in 'beautiful' cocktails and 'service from cheerful and knowledgeable staff,' and the Bothy make a great little pit stop.

Slaggyford's finest, the Kirkstyle, has been a watering hole since the 19th century, although it did service as the local rectory for many centuries before that. In ravishing open moorland near the Cumbrian border, it capitalises on its rugged location by bringing in pedigree produce from across the county of Northumberland. Pasture-raised sheep and cattle, together with seasonal game and fish, adorn Connor Wilson's enterprising menus, and the immaculate presentational style is full of contemporary chic, although it doesn't occlude the essentially straightforward approach to its distinguished ingredients.

A party who undertook an intrepid three-hour drive weren't disappointed, but instead sang the praises of a pigeon pie starter in cherry gravy, as well as the concluding Darling Blue (cheese) panna cotta with plums and walnuts ('a work of alchemy'). Lucky locals also take full advantage of this 'fantastic community hub'. Diners might kick off with a scallop alongside mushroom and spelt ragoût and hollandaise, while mains pump up the volume for pork collar and crispy jowl with carrot and fermented hispi, or pollock and mussels with celeriac and kale. There are, of course, crowd-pulling Sunday roasts, and if you're after something offbeat to finish, look to madeleine with blackberries and woodruff.

The magnificent wine list wouldn't let the side down at a Mayfair boutique, albeit at mark-ups that Mayfair hasn't seen in half a century. French classics lead the charge, but are followed by a Brazilian Chardonnay, a German Pinot, Swiss Dôle, Uruguayan Tannat – it's all good.