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The Kirkstyle Inn and Sportsman’s Rest

Northumberland, Slaggyford - Modern British - Pub with rooms - ££

Overall Rating: Good

Uniqueness:Does the establishment stand out in the context of the local area? Good

Deliciousness:How delicious is the food? Good

Warmth:How warm is the service and the hospitality in general? Very Good

Strength of recommendation:How enthusiastically and widely would you recommend the establishment? Good

What might once have been the rectory of the euphoniously named village of Slaggyford has been a hostelry since Victorian times. Outdoor tables will be a definite summer lure to hikers on the nearby Pennine Way, but the considered transformation of the Kirkstyle Inn into a modern dining pub with rooms seals it as a valuable regional asset. Nick Parkinson (formerly of the Royal Oak, Paley Street) was persuaded to forsake the embrace of Berkshire for these wilder environs by an enterprising property developer, but the new home feels like a perfect fit. The cons, including fitted wine shelves, are all definitely mod but the makeover doesn't seem ersatz; the flagstone floors are undisturbed and, most importantly, the kitchen is off and running. A starter of North Sea crab, peas and chopped fermented asparagus was a bravura dish, the various green elements in perfect balance with the creamily dressed, fresh crustacean. Elsewhere, loose-textured duck liver parfait was offset by the sharpness...

What might once have been the rectory of the euphoniously named village of Slaggyford has been a hostelry since Victorian times. Outdoor tables will be a definite summer lure to hikers on the nearby Pennine Way, but the considered transformation of the Kirkstyle Inn into a modern dining pub with rooms seals it as a valuable regional asset. Nick Parkinson (formerly of the Royal Oak, Paley Street) was persuaded to forsake the embrace of Berkshire for these wilder environs by an enterprising property developer, but the new home feels like a perfect fit. The cons, including fitted wine shelves, are all definitely mod but the makeover doesn't seem ersatz; the flagstone floors are undisturbed and, most importantly, the kitchen is off and running. A starter of North Sea crab, peas and chopped fermented asparagus was a bravura dish, the various green elements in perfect balance with the creamily dressed, fresh crustacean. Elsewhere, loose-textured duck liver parfait was offset by the sharpness of blackberries and the textural snap of granola. An aspirational main course of halibut, which came with beurre blanc cut with fragrant dill oil, plus a mishmash of brown shrimps, chanterelles, pickled grapes and samphire, turned out to be a safer wager than the more prosaic fish and chips; alternatively, you might opt for breast and confit leg of guinea fowl with crushed potatoes, morels and leek. To finish, rhubarb and pistachio crumble with rhubarb sorbet was pleasantly tart and fresh, while cherries and almonds offered inspired contrasts to a dark chocolate crémeux. Drinking is a particularly happy experience, especially as prices begin at a mere £3 for a small glass of Chilean Merlot. Even the 'classed growth' claret and white Burgundy are offered at prices that will have city types green with envy.

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VENUE DETAILS

Slaggyford
Northumberland
CA8 7PBGB

01434 671526

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OTHER INFORMATION

Accommodation, Private dining room, Separate bar, Wheelchair access, Parking, Electric car charging, Family friendly, Dog friendly

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