Quince

‘Brilliant cooking, kind owners, great team, seriously reasonable pricing,' commented a fan of this well-liked venture from Ben Hughes and Rafael Lopez (formerly at the Goods Shed in Canterbury). The intimate, simply decorated restaurant in a small Victorian seaside town two miles east of Margate really is a breath of fresh air. Seasonality is at the heart of the compact menu – this is where local means local – and the two chefs prove their pedigree by following the calendar unerringly. They also have no truck with bizarre marriages of ingredients or avant-garde techniques. Game season, for example, has delivered a fabulous roast partridge breast and confit legs accompanied by nothing more than a dollop of bread sauce, watercress (fresh and puréed) and roasting juices. This dish came from the excellent-value set lunch (preceded by a delicate Crown Prince squash and Shropshire Blue tart), but the brief, regularly changing carte exudes an elegant simplicity in presentation and flavour, too. A starter of beautifully judged, meltingly tender ox cheek with cauliflower and mustard cream could be followed by a perfectly timed hake fillet with salsify and mussels in a pool of rich, pungent, aromatic saffron sauce. We also lapped up the showstopping finale – a cheese course of creamy, semi-soft Burwash Rose, turned into something extraordinary with the addition of a slice of carrot cake and a dash of sweet quince purée. This is triumphant cooking, displaying an instinctive feel for what is right and natural on the plate. The wine list is built on interest, appeal and value, with good choice by the glass and bottle (from £25.75).