Best restaurants in Cornwall
Published 17 September 2024

There's an appealing homely feel to Joe Wardell's welcoming bistro, which sits among stone cottages by Mousehole harbour. Weathered floorboards, foursquare undressed tables and a tiny terrace for clement weather are the setting for confident seafood cookery and more besides. Wardell did a period of training with Raymond Blanc, which accounts for the carefully considered balance of flavours in dishes that might otherwise sound perfectly familiar.

Newlyn crab soup with rouille and Parmesan toast is full of savoury intensity, or consider a bowl of mussels to get you started, comfortingly served in cream with garlic and rosemary. The house fish pie topped with pangrattato is a signature dish worth travelling for, or there could be scallops roasted in their shells, dressed in curried lime butter, with contrasting textures of parsnip purée and crispy shallots.

If you're not a devotee of the sea, go for something like thyme-roasted chicken breast with smoked bacon and lemony pea risotto. Rhubarb and custard pavlova with white-chocolate crumble makes an interesting change for afters, if you can tear yourself away from the sticky toffee pudding. Hearty breakfasts are a draw, and there is also a coastal apartment, the Boatwatch, overlooking the harbour for longer visits.

There's no more appetising way to eat fresh seafood than overlooking a harbour, with a busy fish market close by. Such is the scene at Argoe, which is perched above Mount's Bay at Newlyn. Classic European ways inform the menus, which might kick off with an appetiser of marinated octopus or deeply flavoured home-smoked cod's roe offset by sharp gherkins.

Summer visitors were mightily pleased with their crab, green beans and tomatoes, as well as 'meaty’ balls of minced and braised ray with saffron onions. A whole megrim sole straight from the grill provides a world of ozone-scented satisfaction, dressed in nothing more than browned butter and lemon (‘a faultless piece of fish cookery’), while grilled lobsters (‘deliciously fresh and rich’) are reckoned to be particularly good value, simply doused in herb butter.

A winter menu might feature smoked hake with white beans and leeks, with hand-dived scallops, sardines and black bream being given the grill treatment. There are also a few creative veggie alternatives too – perhaps  roast carrots with pickled walnut and a soft boiled egg. Desserts are simple but far from a mere afterthought, taking in the likes of rhubarb pavlova or clementine sorbet blasted with vodka. A short list of constantly changing but quite pricey low-intervention wines has included a pét-nat version of Beaujolais rosé and a skin-contact German Riesling.

Coombeshead is a working, developing farm with owner Tom Adams making new decisions all the time about what livestock to keep, what to grow that will best suit the soils, and how to present the bounty of the land to its best advantage. The accommodation aspect of the business is its principal attraction (not least for the excellent breakfasts) but a four-course evening menu at £65 is well worth a detour.

Proceedings open with the famously good bread served with sunny-yellow farmhouse butter before a starter of mangalitza pork terrine or a simple preparation of just-picked vegetables. Main courses could be a hefty leg of guinea fowl, served with stewed tomato and string beans, plus dressed salad leaves. Our inspector's dessert – a perfectly rendered frangipane tart of haskap berries with clotted cream – felt like the best kind of farmhouse cooking.

As for wine, it's a matter of browsing the cellars for yourself and picking out something suitable. If you've arrived hot-foot from far away, take a long, meandering wander around the fields. Smell the wild garlic. Look at the chickens and the piglets. Relax.

At one end of a parade of shops and cafés above Carlyon Bay, there is more culinary glamour to Edie's than might first appear. Co-owner and chef Nigel Brown has worked at several fine-dining aristocrats, but Edie’s looks and feels like a true neighbourhood spot – not least because it is run with such sympathetic charm. Contemporary European brasserie cooking is the name of the game, with a good-value fixed-price menu supplementing an impressively adventurous carte delivered with a ‘real eye for detail’ – even in the simplest, most straightforward dishes. Freshly landed Cornish seafood is always a good shout, be it lobster with courgette and tarragon hash brown or hake partnered by a colourful melange of golden beetroot, radish, pancetta and herb yoghurt dressing. Otherwise, there are always plenty of takers for the dry-aged fillet steak with chips, beef tomato and peppercorn butter. Finish with something sweetly seasonal such as strawberry soufflé with elderflower juice or lemon posset with raspberries and Turkish delight. The short, helpfully annotated wine list is notable for its reasonable mark-ups.

Owned by David Gingell and Jeremie Cometto-Lingenheim, the duo behind London venues Westerns Laundry, Primeur and Jolene, this Cornish venture is built on similar foundations: simple cooking, provenance, sustainability and natural wines. Housed in a former bank, yards from Fowey's quay and waterfront, it offers a bijou menu dominated by seafood, while the petite wine list promises a selection of natural tipples from small producers. Note: Fitzroy is a seasonal restaurant, closed from October to March.

Calum and Tracey Greenhalgh's tiny, no-fuss daytime café (just round the corner from the acclaimed Outlaw’s New Road) is all about fish and shellfish. The catch from the Evan George, Calum's boat, takes centre stage and responsible fishing is the name of the game. Visitors delight at the sight of a counter full of tempting seafood – lobsters, crabs, mackerel and much, much more. Crab sandwiches remain a firm favourite, otherwise look out for lobster salad, smoked mackerel pâté, or the feast platter, which is just that: whole lobster, dressed crab, Porthilly oysters. Drink house wine, Prosecco or local beers. Seasonal opening.

On the harbour head in peaceable Porthleven, Kota feels every inch the rustic Cornish bolthole, with its red tiled floor, mutually reflecting mirrors and engaging, friendly staff. What lifts it out of the ordinary are the flavour combinations Jude Kereama brings to all of his dishes. With both Maori and Malaysian/Chinese heritage, he has an ingenious approach to seasoning and spicing, as well as an understanding of textural variation – and the results never seem to fall short.

Eat from the carte or choose the six-course tasting menu, which offers similar dishes with apposite wine pairings (‘pure fine dining,’ according to one reader). Nibbles of smoked mackerel doughnuts or oysters with rhubarb vinegar set the tone, ahead of hand-dived scallops with turnip, apple, buttermilk and lovage or lemon sole with a rich coconut and lobster bisque, sea buckthorn and grapes. Meat also gets a look-in, be it pork belly with cauliflower, plum boshi and cabbage or beef with black garlic, maitake mushrooms and smoked potato.

Finish perhaps with sweet-savoury choux bun with Jerusalem artichoke ice cream, black-garlic caramel and truffle praline or baked cheese and hibiscus mayo accompanied by a rhubarb, raspberry and custard crumble. The 50-bin wine list favours Kereama's Kiwi birthplace, with Riesling allowed to demonstrate its food-friendly paces – either varietally or blended, acerbically dry or with the citric sweetness of late harvesting.

Facing Jude Kereama’s acclaimed main restaurant, Kota, this second-string eatery is a first-floor space that feels a little like a loft apartment. A very long room offering good views over the harbour, it serves up an Asian-inspired menu of popular favourites – say salt-and-pepper squid, tempura tofu, soft-shell crab bao, seafood laksa, vegetable ramen or chicken massaman – with one or two western interlopers in the shape of mushroom arancini, feather-blade steak or fish and chips. Drink cocktails or wine from £25.

It's as well to be aware of the drill at this lively seafood spot smack in the middle of Newlyn: there's no booking, so turn up early and be prepared to wait. The place is fairly small, though for a real definition of ‘small’, look at the space the kitchen team is working in, and you might need to sit outside. Bring a woolly hat. Inside, high stools at long tables make comfortable perches for the laminate menus, on which you note your choices in marker pen. Happy? You will be when the dishes start rolling out.

Scallops with Cornish dukkah and hog's pudding is an inspired mix of traditions, while panko-crumbed prawns come with Asian slaw, or there is katsu-dressed crispy sole. Everything makes a hearty impression – these are the sorts of dishes you can devour with impunity. Finesse isn't the point, and there are plenty of paper napkins on hand for mucky pups.

If you're a stickler for tradition, there will still be beer-battered white fish with tartare sauce, or mussels in creamy cider with crusty bread. Finish with lemon and thyme posset, or chocolate mousse and miso caramel. A handful of wines rises adequately to the task in hand. The additional venue two doors along opens as an overspill in summer, and for weekend set lunches in the winter.

The Friskney-Bryers have created ‘a Fowey institution’ in their converted boatshed restaurant overlooking the comings and goings of small craft out on the creek. The couple are fully committed to seasonality and sustainability, and their staff are also impressively clued-up when it comes to all things local. An infectiously informal vibe prevails in the main dining room with its long communal table, festoon lights, open kitchen and simple blackboard menu. Each week, the kitchen has a fish soup on the go, made from trimmings that can’t be used elsewhere; otherwise, the roll call of fabulous seafood specialities, might take in anything from cured pollack with fermented chilli dressing or confit sea bass with Cornish ‘earlies’, mayo and lovage to salt fish gratin. Away from the sea, you might also find slow-cooked lamb bolognese or nettle gnudi with mushrooms, and it's hard to resist the chocolate mousse with caramel and salt. To drink, a handful of natural wines by the glass do the trick – or you might fancy some grape juice from the Tamar Valley.

It may be hidden away at the front of the Bedruthan Hotel (walk through the hotel and down through the standard restaurant to get to it), but large windows along the front of this 'very minimalist' space make the most of views overlooking Mawgan Porth beach and cove. To start, you are simply brought a selection of tapas-style snacks, perhaps mackerel tacos with ponzu, pickled shallots and cucumber, truffle arancini with black garlic, or baba ganoush with dukkah and sumac. Mains and desserts are then chosen from a brief menu. At inspection, 'beautifully cooked' pan-fried cod served with a mini fishcake on a bed of mushy peas, accompanied by a crisp fondant potato ‘chip’ (plus pickled mussel and 'tartare beurre blanc' to cut through the richness) was a clever take on fish and chips, while pork belly was bolstered by a hit of smoky 'nduja ragù. Desserts could be raspberry and pistachio millefeuille or crème brûlée, and there are local cheeses too. The wine list is unfussy and good value, with bottles starting at £23.

* At lunchtime, guests can now order individually priced dishes in addition to the 'Fish Kitchen to Share' tasting menu. *

‘I saved the best till last,’ commented a visitor to this ‘remarkable small restaurant’ overlooking the slipway. Housed in the oldest building in the fishing village where Doc Martin was filmed, it’s all ancient, gnarled ships’ timbers, a very low ceiling and the definite feeling of pouring a quart into a half-pint pot (the tiny bathroom requires a determined effort at self-compression). The whole place is run with great enthusiasm, with the six-course tasting menu – ‘lovely, simple, brief’ – moving along at a reassuring pace. It’s another string to Nathan Outlaw’s bow, a local, seasonal and sustainable commitment filtering down from parent Outlaw’s New Road at the top of the village. Here, the offerings might take in diced cured bass, dressed in spiced pumpkin ketchup and served on a crisp blue corn tostado (so popular it’s fast achieving cult status); a lobster dumpling in seafood broth, which comes with a piece of sensational sesame toast; and crisply breadcrumbed megrim sole, with pickled slaw and jalapeño mayonnaise. Elsewhere, John Dory was excellent at inspection, big enough in flavour to stand up to an old-school creamy mushroom sauce. With the bounty of the seas getting star billing, you might expect dessert to be a perfunctory offering, but not so. A dome of browned Italian meringue contains seductively tangy passion fruit and lime parfait on a coconut shortbread biscuit base. There are some aristocratic wines on the short list, with both Cornwall and the classic French regions showing up well. Note, the tiny dimensions mean that the Fish Kitchen gets booked up way ahead.

He may not have the public profile of all-conquering Rick Stein, but Paul Ainsworth is a big player in Padstow these days – and this engaging Georgian townhouse is his gastronomic HQ. Cool artwork and a ‘great soundtrack’ add some upbeat vibes to the two modest dining rooms, while staff get a special mention for their thoroughly professional attitude and ‘sense of humour’. That said, Ainsworth's cooking is indubitably the star of the show. The menu is divided into four sections highlighting the chef’s technical prowess, his loyalty to seasonal produce and his bold culinary imagination. Ainsworth's modish approach and his pairing of disparate ingredients may seem tantalisingly outré, but the results invariably draw ‘sighs of pleasure’: ‘bird’s liver’ with carrot ketchup and smoked eel; truffle-cured cod with roast chicken and manzanilla; ‘all of the pigeon’, various gamey conceits including a confit leg wrapped in crispy shredded kataifi pastry sitting on umeboshi condiment (made from Japanese salted plums), followed by a dark pain au chocolat filled with the remaining bits of the bird. To finish, there might be some artisan cheese with 'apple pie', but all eyes inevitably turn to the near-legendary ‘Fairground Tale’ (as seen on TV). Roll up for three edible sideshows: the ‘old tyme coconut shy’ (a towering bitter chocolate and coconut soufflé with chilled cocoa and rum custard); a miniature, hand-painted wooden carousel bearing a chocolate bar and a crunchy brown-butter choc ice wrapped in paper; and finally, ‘all the fun of the fair’ – a wickedly rich muscovado-glazed doughnut served warm with raspberry curd and butter-roasted peanuts. Matching this is a wine list stuffed with bottles that the owners like to drink; France claims pole position but the range is global, and there are some tasty by-the-glass selections too. ‘A brilliant dining experience that made the six-hour drive down from Kent more than worthwhile,’ concluded one couple.

The serene white building on a broad sandy beach with fabulous panoramic views is most directly reached by a stepped footpath that descends from the main road. It is wholly unlit at night. Set your phone to torch, and take care. Fish and seafood are the specialities (whole Dover sole or shellfish linguine, perhaps), with enticing meat and vegetarian options too (Indonesian curries, fried halloumi with tomato and bean cassoulet). A serviceable wine list comes at manageable prices.

If you’re looking for a casual, cut-price take on the 'Padstein' experience, this all-purpose eatery in the frenetic hinterland of downtown Padstow should fit the bill. Drop by for breakfast or a cup of coffee, feed the kids at lunchtime or book in for a ‘very enjoyable evening’ against a backdrop of bright colours, white walls and light-wood furniture – there are even three bedrooms upstairs if you fancy staying over. As you might expect, the kitchen majors in seafood from the Padstow boats, so dip into an assortment of Rick Stein’s greatest hits at user-friendly prices. Briny freshness and globetrotting flavours collide in classics such as Thai fishcakes, mussels with black beans, garlic and ginger or grilled hake with spring onion mash and soy butter. The kitchen is also happy to go off-piste, offering chargrilled rump steak with peppery rocket, thin-cut chips and béarnaise sauce, as well as a veggie stew of tomatoes, aubergines and tamarind – plus sourdough for dunking. For afters, sticky toffee pud with clotted cream is the go-to option. A cluster of fish-friendly wines (from £23) provide suitable refreshment.

Deep within the reticulated thoroughfares of St Ives, Source Kitchen is worth seeking out. The place is dedicated to the abundant glories of mostly local artisan produce, in a space that looks very much the place to be for an unhurried lunch break – or as evening deepens. Snack options open the menu in fine style, with house pickles and ‘seaweed-kraut’ or coppa and cornichons to prime the palate.

Dayboat fish is always worth a look, perhaps for gurnard in Mediterranean array with blood-orange, fennel and herbs, a whole brill Goan-style, or monkfish tail in green peppercorn sauce. Premium grass-fed Cornish beef onglet dressed with zhoug could well be the sole meat option, its exemplary quality hardly needing any alternative. Lighter lunch dishes encompass carrot risotto with kale and crispy sage, or butterflied mackerel from the local bay, sauced with salsa verde.

The chocolate mousse with olive oil and sea salt is not to be missed at any cost, but if you need a little more waking up, the affogato should assist. Stithians (a mature, slightly wilder cousin of Yarg) is served in splendid isolation as a cheese course, accoutred with hot honey and walnuts. A short wine list opens at £9 a glass, and is supplemented by some artfully crafted cocktails.

At this pint-sized wine shop, bar and café, it was once a case of turning up and hoping, but an online booking system now ensures the avoidance of disappointment. And disappointed you would be if you were to miss the locally supplied menu on offer here. Start with smart nibbles of anchovy and ricotta crostini or the covetable air-dried mangalitza ham from Coombeshead Farm (with some Coombeshead sourdough on the side).

A spring visitor gasped at the deliciousness of St Eia's take on the classic rarebit, as well as Newlyn crab piled heftily on toast and served with cucumber pickle. Vividly dressed salads might mobilise Stichelton, pear, walnuts, quince and radicchio into a colourful assemblage, but heartier appetites are not neglected either –especially when platefuls of beef bourguignon and mash are at hand.

Neal's Yard cheeses are hard to resist in the context, but sweet things range from lemon posset to mincemeat frangipane tart with clotted cream. An excellent wine list embraces much from the biodynamic and skin-contact universe. A glass of something inspiring might tempt you to take home a bottle of it from the well-stocked shelves.

The stone-built St Kew, dotted with hanging baskets, and with an expansive trestle-tabled garden full of mature trees behind, dates from the reign of Edward IV, and aims to cover as many of the requirements of a village pub as possible. There are four dining areas, all imbued with an infectious air of country-inn conviviality, and the kitchen also works to the principle of broad choice.

In between the chicken Caesar salad, beer-battered haddock and short-rib cheeseburgers with pickles and fries, there are some more speculative options for the adventurous: raw scallop with ponzu, brown crab emulsion and apple; beetroot gnocchi with courgettes, romesco and feta; pork chop with pea and bean fricassee, Cornish new potatoes and cider sauce, for example. 

Desserts cover a lot of ground, from sticky toffee pudding with toffee sauce, ginger crumb and clotted cream to poached pineapple with coconut ice cream. There's usually some Cornish cheese too (perhaps Trelawny from Whalesborough Farm Foods in Marhamchurch), while Sunday roasts might bring apple-smoked sirloin and rare-breed pork belly with their time-honoured seasonal  accompaniments – all cooked with consummate care and attention to detail. Local beers and ciders are the jewels in the crown of a drinks list that also takes in some well-chosen mainstream wines.

* Chef Angus Bell and the team from nearby restaurant Mine are now running the kitchen. Watch for a new review coming soon.*

Smartly updated as a pub/restaurant with three boutique apartments upstairs, this born-again Victorian pub (circa 1892) is reaping the benefits of a modest makeover – although the views of Falmouth harbour from its dining area are as entrancing as ever. The chef is keen on Cornish ingredients, and fish from the local boats is a strong suit – perhaps BBQ monkfish partnered by chicken butter, smoked potatoes and mussels. The kitchen also has its own butchery and a ‘waste nothing’ philosophy that yields some intriguing results on the plate, from shepherd’s pie nuggets with the pub’s own brown sauce to smoked beef-cheek dumplings with smashed peas and pickled onion rings. Not surprisingly, top-notch Sunday roasts are a given here, and readers are full of praise for the ‘perfectly cooked’ rump of aged beef with all the trimmings (including ‘Yorkies as big as your head’). For afters, don’t miss the blackberry cheesecake mess or the ‘divine’ sticky toffee pudding with a ‘burnt’ banana, Pedro Ximénez caramel and clotted cream. Service is ‘attentive but not overbearing’, while the drinks list features some well-annotated global wines alongside expertly crafted cocktails and local ales.

Gorran is apparently a thing of many parts – Haven, High Lanes and Churchtown – but they are essentially one. Just by the titular church is the Barley Sheaf pub, which has stood since Queen Victoria's accession but has been sensitively freshened and spruced into the modern era, with a clean light look, a black slate floor and many local artworks on a seascape theme for sale. The cooking keeps its feet firmly in the pub ethos, rather than pitching into pretension, so there are steak and ale pies, fish and chips, and sausage and mash for the traditionalists, but some more cutting-edge dishes too. A hefty ham hock croquette in golden crumb is crammed to capacity with bright pink meat, and accompanied by a warm serving of celeriac rémoulade bristling with mustard seeds and a dollop of truffle mayo. That could be followed by plaice in chicken jus with chestnuts and cavolo nero. Veggie dishes lack nothing for substance and richness, if our wild mushroom ravioli with capers and celery in a thickly memorable tomato ragù is any indicator. Finish with sticky toffee pudding and clotted cream, or an inspired cheese selection. A simple wine list just about does the job, but could afford to be a little more adventurous in the context.

Overlooking the western end of Porthmeor Beach, away from the tourist hugger-mugger of downtown St Ives, the Fish Shed is swathed in scents of the sea. If you turn up sandy-footed from pottering on the beach, nobody will object. Populist seafood dishes take in the likes of crab Scotch egg, Cornish mackerel tartare or crisply battered Korean-style monkfish, and the bracing freshness of it all comes as standard – although execution can be a little muted. For afters, there could be a fairly hefty miso treacle tart with Cornish honey and yoghurt sorbet – enough for two, unless you're an incorrigible dessert fiend. A short wine list opens at £7.50 a glass.

Tucked away in tranquil St Keverne, not far from Helston, the Greenhouse fits neatly in among its neighbouring cottages. It's the kind of place that readers characterise as a 'gem', appreciating the intimate feel of the dining room and a host, Neil Woodward, who enjoys talking about food. Out back, Leonie Woodward conjures a larder of seasonal organic ingredients into dishes that draw inspiration from various global cuisines, with stunning results. Seafood is an obvious strong point: there may be Japanese-influenced treacle-cured trout with nori and tomato ponzu to start, but regional traditionalists will covet Falmouth Bay scallops roasted on the half-shell with lemon, garlic and seaweed butter. For main course, it might be butter-roasted monkfish in crab velouté with cockles and leeks, while the Asian theme resounds again for miso-roasted pork belly and anise-scented tenderloin with roasted beetroot and raisins. Finish with a baba, doused not in rum but carob liqueur, paired with a poached pear, and given the regional imprimatur of a clod of clotted cream. Organic and biodynamic wines, as well as local Cornish ales, are the stock-in-trade of the brief drinks list.

Named after a brooding rocky promontory which is said to resemble the grotesque head of a gurnard, this gloriously remote clifftop inn is unmistakable, with its moniker emblazoned on the roof and its mustard-yellow exterior positively gleaming in the sunshine. Inside, all is cosily weatherproof, with open fires and comfy sofas for those who fancy a pint of real ale or cider in the bar. There’s an equally unfussy vibe in the dining room, where vivid primary colours, scrubbed-wood tables and paintings set the tone. Given the location, it’s no surprise that locally landed seafood is a mainstay of the menu – and that includes the ugly old gurnard from time to time. More likely are dishes such as cod paired with braised beef short rib, roasted shallot and gremolata or hake jazzed up with a global grab-bag of vada pav, aubergine pickle, dukkah and coriander. Otherwise, home in on duck leg with wild garlic and goat’s cheese orzo or roast broccoli with nettle and Stilton purée. Desserts are the heart-warming, comforting kind – perhaps sticky toffee pudding topped with a dollop of Cornish clotted cream for good measure. The owners’ slogan is ‘eat, drink, sleep’, so expect some idiosyncratic libations and guest rooms for those wanting to stay over.

This addition to the Pig Hotel collection is an imposing 15th-century building overlooking the waters of Harlyn Bay near Padstow. 'Rustic and relaxed' is an apt description. On arrival, you’ll pass the resident pigs and chickens, while inside all is 'fashionably shabby'. Reception has an open fire and forms part of the surrounding lounge area, a homely spot for chilling out. The open kitchen chimes perfectly with the rustic feel of the restaurant, which is spread across several rooms, creating an intimate setting. Most produce is sourced from within a 25-mile radius, some is home-grown, and the results could be summed up as follows: 'simple cooking, simple local ingredients, no fuss, great staff'. Our visit took in a 'very refreshing' chilled beetroot soup given heft with a dollop of horseradish cream followed by red mullet served with a sweet onion purée and crispy, salty ‘Mr Bartlett’s’ coppa, plus sides of Cornish new potatoes with wild-garlic salt and buttered garden greens. After that, a foraged elderflower jelly teamed with a Bacchus sorbet providing a light finish. British wines are championed on a list that opens at £33. In season, there's a popular lobster shed across the driveway in front of the hotel; here, visitors can tuck into flame-grilled steaks and seafood after a day at the beach.

Formerly home to the coastguard’s horse-drawn rocket-firing equipment, this cute, single-storey Victorian building brings a unique energy to the handful of retail and café outlets lining the Boscastle estuary as it flows into the sea. There is modest seating inside and a surprisingly generous all-weather courtyard, thanks to huge, heated umbrellas, and the red-brick property provides a contrast to the centuries-old, whitewashed cottages for which the village is known. A daily changing blackboard menu features fish-led sharing plates using local catch, lamb that roam the pastures above the restaurant (gently braised Trebiffen lamb shank with a spicy Shanghai pepper sauce is typical), with room for excellent local vegetables to play a starring role too. Puddings make less of an impression, but local and artisanal cheese are worth a punt. A bijou drinks list includes wines, cocktails, beers and non-alcoholic tipples to suit all pockets.

Sitting majestically at one end of Padstow, Rick Stein's family-run flagship is truly one of the heritage addresses of British gastronomy. In business continuously since 1975, it has played a major role in overcoming what was the national ambivalence about seafood. Those who always claimed they liked fish but didn't know what to do with it have been inspired by a range of dishes that has never shied away from stepping off the straight and narrow – witness the likes of Indonesian fish curry with green bean and coconut salad, or vigorously spiced monkfish with roasted butternut squash and crispy chicken skin.

At heart, though, it's sterling tradition that is celebrated most fulsomely here, producing hearty Provençal-style fish soup with rouille and croûtons, platters of cold or hot fruits de mer, and main courses such as casseroled hake, chargrilled sea bass with tomato, butter and vanilla vinaigrette, or the show-stopping lobster thermidor in cream and Noilly Prat, served with skinny chips. People appreciate the bright, relaxing atmosphere and the first-class service, and even if the cost of it all can mount up formidably, it is usually felt to be worth the outlay.

Bistro-style desserts round things off with classics such as lemon tart, chocolate fondant or passion-fruit pavlova. Wines by the glass open with a quality Muscadet Sur Lie, the kind of seafood-friendly white that has all but disappeared from other lists. The quality throughout is highly commendable, but markups may well be found too hot to handle.

A stone's throw from the harbour wall, this characterful, whitewashed building is perfectly positioned for anyone wanting to enjoy a great-value, globally inspired brasserie menu while watching the boats on the water. The airy, ground-floor dining room spills out on to a small terrace, with the owners' Deli & Ice Cream Emporium close at hand. Expect a daily menu ranging from warm English asparagus with pea purée, Rosary goat’s cheese, toasted milk bread and herb oil dressing to soy- and honey-glazed Primrose Herd pork belly with a hog’s pudding, champ croquette, crackling, celeriac purée, pak choi and apple sauce.

Fabulous views of St Michael's Mount are just part of the attraction at this pared-back but child-friendly café at Tremenheere Sculpture Gardens. Lunch might be local hake with Bombay potato terrine, rainbow chard and a coconut and tomato sauce (plus a glass of white on the side), or simply opt for pudding (sticky pear and date, perhaps) with a fancy hot chocolate. There are breakfasts, Sunday roasts and the odd evening session too, but the seasons and weather dictate the scale of what's available, so check first. Note: all tables are reserved for sit-down meals in summer; coffee and cake available from the takeaway hut.