Mackerel Sky Seafood Bar

It's as well to be aware of the drill at this lively seafood spot smack in the middle of Newlyn: there's no booking, so turn up early and be prepared to wait. The place is fairly small, though for a real definition of ‘small’, look at the space the kitchen team is working in, and you might need to sit outside. Bring a woolly hat. Inside, high stools at long tables make comfortable perches for the laminate menus, on which you note your choices in marker pen. Happy? You will be when the dishes start rolling out.

Scallops with Cornish dukkah and hog's pudding is an inspired mix of traditions, while panko-crumbed prawns come with Asian slaw, or there is katsu-dressed crispy sole. Everything makes a hearty impression – these are the sorts of dishes you can devour with impunity. Finesse isn't the point, and there are plenty of paper napkins on hand for mucky pups.

If you're a stickler for tradition, there will still be beer-battered white fish with tartare sauce, or mussels in creamy cider with crusty bread. Finish with lemon and thyme posset, or chocolate mousse and miso caramel. A handful of wines rises adequately to the task in hand. The additional venue two doors along opens as an overspill in summer, and for weekend set lunches in the winter.