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Argoe

Cornwall, Newlyn - Seafood - Restaurant - ££

Overall Rating: Good

Uniqueness:Does the establishment stand out in the context of the local area? Good

Deliciousness:How delicious is the food? Good

Warmth:How warm is the service and the hospitality in general? Very Good

Strength of recommendation:How enthusiastically and widely would you recommend the establishment? Very Good

If you’re looking for the freshest Cornish seafood, treated with simplicity and culinary intelligence, look no further than this purpose-built, wood-clad building overlooking Newlyn’s picturesque harbour, just a few steps from the town’s famous fish market. In agreeable weather a table on the terrace is a prime spot, but the views are just as good from inside the intimate dining room. Co-owned by Rochelle Canteen's former head chef Ben Coombs and Newlyn fishmonger Richard Adams, Argoe's short menu is dictated by the day's catch. For one visitor, Sunday lunch was a masterclass in less-is-more cooking based on sustainable varieties of seafood: deep-fried whole megrim served with a punchy aïoli and grilled John Dory simply garnished with a lemon wedge were both 'cooked to perfection'. At the same meal, a superlative fish soup of deep flavour was as good as many a more famous version. Desserts are a knockout too, if a generously proportioned and beautifully bake...

If you’re looking for the freshest Cornish seafood, treated with simplicity and culinary intelligence, look no further than this purpose-built, wood-clad building overlooking Newlyn’s picturesque harbour, just a few steps from the town’s famous fish market. In agreeable weather a table on the terrace is a prime spot, but the views are just as good from inside the intimate dining room. Co-owned by Rochelle Canteen's former head chef Ben Coombs and Newlyn fishmonger Richard Adams, Argoe's short menu is dictated by the day's catch. For one visitor, Sunday lunch was a masterclass in less-is-more cooking based on sustainable varieties of seafood: deep-fried whole megrim served with a punchy aïoli and grilled John Dory simply garnished with a lemon wedge were both 'cooked to perfection'. At the same meal, a superlative fish soup of deep flavour was as good as many a more famous version. Desserts are a knockout too, if a generously proportioned and beautifully baked American-style strawberry shortcake featuring ripe, flavour-packed berries and lashings of cream is anything to go by. The crème caramel-like baked custard with rum-soaked raisins is a must-order, too. Some may find the truncated list of low-intervention wines (just three whites and one each of sparkling, rosé, orange and red) a little limited, especially as they are offered on tap only, but a 500ml carafe of Mâcon Blanc 'went down a treat' – as did some well-made Negronis and a snack of homemade crisps with a butter bean dip. Add in genuinely welcoming service and a relatively modest bill and you have an irresistible, hugely enjoyable proposition.

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VENUE DETAILS

The Strand
Newlyn
Cornwall
TR18 5HWGB

01736 362455

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OTHER INFORMATION

Counter seating, Wheelchair access, Credit card required

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