Our favourite Indian restaurants across Britain
Published 29 October 2024

A few blocks from the South Promenade and Blackpool's Pleasure Beach, this neighbourhood Indian is everybody's idea of an invaluable local resource – ‘it definitely makes Highfield Road a better place to eat, drink and socialise,’ notes one resident. The name means something like 'At the sign of the pomegranate', and behind a leafy-green frontage, the place exudes a family feeling, with cooking that is steeped in the Subcontinent's ancestral traditions. Sharing platters encourage a sense of togetherness (try the yakni Kashmiri pulao served straight from the stove), although most of the menu works in the expected way, with naan breads and parathas served alongside main dishes such as beef bagla bhuna, Afghan chicken or a family-style lamb curry.  You might preface these treats with Darjeeling chicken momo (dumplings) or the unmissable lahsuni houmous accompanied by a tandoori roti. Other attractions include a highly popular supper club, occasional live music, charity events and a proper Indian breakfast/brunch offer. Varietal wines do their job, while fruity cocktails offer a true taste of Blackpool. 

‘Serving up exceptional curries since 1985,’ Forest Hill’s beloved Babur just keeps on rolling – and it's still the go-to option for locals wanting prettily plated Indian food that’s a cut above your average high-street curry house. It’s also family-run, ‘rooted in the local community‘ and run by kindly staff who give everyone a ‘genuinely warm welcome’. Over the years, it has become increasingly stylish and distinctive, with a hand-painted kalamkari horoscope in the foyer, low-hanging lights, exposed brickwork and wooden partitions holding elaborate floral displays.

Meanwhile, the kitchen scours the Subcontinent for regional ideas while offering dedicated menus for those with special dietary needs. The full repertoire bypasses kormas and dhansaks in favour of more intricate, modern ideas such as goat tikka with a cumin puff and aubergine mash, steamed shoulder of lamb (marinated for 100 hours) with beetroot rice, or spiced stone bass with chana masala yoghurt and papaya chutney. Vegetable dishes and sides are also full of promise – think garlicky spinach with sweetcorn and mushrooms or thinly sliced fried potatoes dusted with mango powder.

To finish, try the milk sponge cake with saffron gel or the chocolate fondant spiced with cumin. On Sundays, Babur’s ‘help yourself’ family buffet is something of a local institution in its own right. The wine list has been knowledgeably assembled with food in mind, but it would be remiss to ignore the zippy Asian-themed cocktails.

It’s easy to walk past Bibi. One’s eye tends to be drawn to North Audley Street’s flashier inhabitants, such as The Ivy Asia or Roka. But this bijou space, which combines the look of a luxurious railway dining car with a private members-only club feel, is by far the more interesting option – its sociable vibe, warm service and small-plate Indian cooking seducing most who cross its threshold.

Chet Sharma's modern Anglo-Indian cuisine fuses different culinary influences from across the Subcontinent with the absolute best of British produce. His delicate blend of spices, the unique tangy, sour notes, the subtle hint of heat that lingers gently on the palate, the extra layers of taste and texture, translate into creative small plates such as the never-off-the-menu interpretations of nimbu pani or the signature Sharmaji’s Lahori chicken, all carried off with the same sure touch and stunning presentation.

The best seats are the comfortable counter stools that grandstand the long, narrow kitchen, though there are some black-leather booths along the opposite wall. It's pricey (the five-course lunch taster is a good introduction). But limber up with a cocktail, lean into the warmth of the service and the extremely well-chosen (if expensive) wines, and this is a great option for an unstuffy celebratory meal.

Anyone who has seen the movie The Lunchbox will know about the ‘dabbawalas’ who bike thousands of tiffin tins to office workers across Mumbai and other Indian cities. This casual sibling of Jamavar brings some of that homespun subcontinental spice and flavour to central Mayfair, with plenty of (Bombay) bustle and noisy chatter to go with the smoky aromas. Against a slick Art Deco backdrop inspired by the city’s first-class railway carriages, the kitchen doles out dishes full of up-front punch and invigorating freshness, with touches of glamour and panache thrown in for good measure. Some of the best things are the small plates – pao buns stuffed with lamb keema, peppery spiced scrambled eggs with truffle oil and naan, crispy new potatoes with Tulsi chilli chutney. If something more substantial is required, look to the line-up of tandoor-fired dishes, biryanis and curries – from Goan-style stone bass tikka with chilli paste to Malabar lamb or a version of chicken Madras involving coconut milk and ‘southern spices’. Dhals, vegetables and sides will please all palates and persuasions, while dessert might bring masala chai panna cotta with strawberries and figs. On Sunday, the Bombay Bustle 'brunch bundle' is a local hit. To drink, east-west cocktails are quite the thing here, (try the signature G&T made with Nagpur orange bitter and gin distilled in a 100-year-old copper pot); otherwise glug a bottle of Indian beer or something from the global wine list.

The fact that this vibrant suburban Indian is in a residential area well away from Stockport’s main drag means that it’s still a proper locals’ restaurant – even though its fame has now spread far beyond SK7. Much of the credit must go to owners Sandeep Gursahani and Donya Bonyadi, who put their heart and soul into the place, treat kids with affection and ensure that standards remain ‘sky-high’. The interior is a riot of colour (posters, framed photographs, murals, bright orange napkins), while ‘incredibly friendly’ staff are always happy to guide diners through the menu. Check out the Indo-Chinese specialities and dishes from Sindh province (Sandeep’s homeland), although there are well-rendered regional winners wherever you look. Regulars know most of the repertoire by heart but there is always the odd surprise, such as a lightly spiced chicken kebab – hunks of juicy meat, each on a hanging skewer, set over smouldering charcoal to give the whole thing a delicious smokiness. Hits are many and varied, from the crispest masala dosa with soothing coconut chutney to the ‘Mumbai sizzler’ (a fiercely hot metal skillet with cubes of paneer, onions, a stuffed pepper, makhani sauce and rice) – perfect with a superb onion and chilli kulcha. Fans of Bollywood movies will recognise the curious names of some dishes: Lai Bhaari, for example, is a fabulous lamb creation with a gorgeous sauce (sweet jaggery, sharp tamarind, earthily savoury peanuts). To finish, try a ‘sizzling brownie’ or the mini white chocolate and cinnamon samosa. Drink Indian beer or one of the Bollywood-themed cocktails.

It may have grown into a mini-chain with three venues plus an active brewery and taproom, but Mill Hill, Leeds is where it all started for Bundobust 10 years ago. The atmosphere here is still as electric as ever, with a menu that's vegetarian by happenstance rather than design and encourages sharing. Must-orders include okra fries seasoned with black salt and mango powder, paneer tikka, and gobi Manchurian – a sweet, spicy nod to the Indo-Chinese sub-genre. Twelve keg and two cask lines pour a selection of beers from the Bundobust Brewery in Manchester, plus collabs and guest brews, while the cocktail/mocktail list brings flavours from the kitchen to the bar with various house-made infusions.

Manchester's fine 'rice 'n' three' tradition comes to Salford in the form of this Gujarati café, MediaCity's most wholesome (and popular) indie offering. A daily dish rotation – pick three to eat with fluffy rice – includes treasures such as lamb karahi or floaty-light coconut and spinach tarka dhal. It's a popular al-desko takeaway, but you can eat in from cardboard bowls at the basic bench seating. Either way, the correct response to the offer of chillies and chutneys is 'all of them, please'. 

Camellia Panjabi was one of the first restaurateurs in London to showcase, in a modern idiom, the many-splendid iterations of Indian regional cooking. This is upscale food that shines with glittery excitement and regal flavours in a glamorous setting. On arrival, you are engulfed in a wave of attention; some might feel a touch overwhelmed, but for others it’s a magic carpet ride to the glory days of the Raj. The cavernous interior is glitzy, glossy, lavishly crammed with gilt, crystal, shimmering lights, framed colonial prints, large artworks and etched glass.

The food is equally polished: dabba gosht was a creamy, nutty lamb stew; baked crab balchao served in its baking dish was gently spiced and topped with crispy breadcrumbs. Other small plates might include baked venison samosa or scallops in Mangalorean sauce. There is an Indian barbecue selection offering the likes of tandoori Amritsan sea bass or Afghani chicken tikka, as well as roster of slow-cooked dishes that includes 'Parsi wedding' duck, Bengal lamb curry and a delicious nut-thickened Karwan fish curry made with halibut. The waiting staff are happy to convey any request to modify the spicing back to the kitchen.

Desserts are equally wide-ranging within the national compass: dark chocolate and Punjabi rum tart, cherry shrikhand or perfect Persian kulfi, elegantly moulded like citrus segments and served on a silvery plate. The Sunday brunch is also worth noting, as is the Pukka Bar lunch. 

Shake off the humdrum location (beside the busy Otley Road in north Leeds) and relax into the easy enjoyment of Dastaan. Sibling of the original restaurant in Epsom, with Nand Kishor Semwal (ex-Gymkhana) as executive chef, it bears many of the same hallmarks: faultlessly warm, attentive service and a fresh, snappy menu which skirts all the curry-house clichés. Start with spinach and kale bhajiya or generous, charred wedges of paneer tikka with bright mint chutney before delving into a pork cheek vindaloo or Malvani fish curry. The vast 130-cover dining room has its own bar serving up cocktails, mocktails, local Kirkstall Brewery beer on draught and a selection of mainstream wines.

Occupying the ‘bow end’ of the astonishing boat-shaped One Chamberlain Square building overlooking Birmingham Town Hall, this branch of Dishoom is nothing if not eye-catching. Inside, its take on a Bombay’s classless Irani cafés also pays homage to that city’s Swadeshi Market with all sorts of exhibits, paraphernalia and archive material – or you can enjoy priceless people-watching from the vast outdoor terrace.

Roll up early for buttery maska buns with hot chai or a chicken kathi roll, lunch on a couple of small plates (perhaps a pau bhaji or a chicken and mango salad), or feast on tandooris and grills such as the ‘perfectly spiced’ masala prawns. These share the billing with various ‘Ruby Murrays’, mutton pepper fry and the house special – in this case Goan monkfish curry strewn with curry leaves.

Of course, you can always go down the traditional curry-house route (spicy samosas and light bhel puris followed by a ‘succulent’ chicken biryani) but feedback suggests that this is less rewarding and far less fun than hands-on sharing. To finish, opt for something sweet and soothing such as a creamy kulfi. Drinkers are also spoilt for choice, with a bewildering array of cocktails, sodas, international wines and esoteric beers (one fan recommends the Dishoom IPA, ‘a very worthy and refreshing brew’).

The Dishoom group has the knack of picking atmospheric locations for its various restaurants, and this Edinburgh outpost is no exception – although one local thought it felt ‘a bit like a pub’. Occupying three floors of a handsome Art Deco building overlooking St Andrew Square, it is dedicated to hirsute Scottish botanist and all-round man of the people Sir Patrick Geddes, who helped improve living conditions in Edinburgh's Old Town during Victorian times and had strong links with Bombay. Appropriate, since Dishoom aims to recreate the essence and ambience of that city's classless Irani cafés, with a lively all-day menu of Anglo-Indian tiffin and tucker.

Roll up early for buttery maska buns with hot chai or a chicken kathi roll, lunch on a couple small plates (perhaps a hot potato vada pau or chickpeas, halwa and pickles in a puffy puri); otherwise, get sociable by sharing a feast of different dishes. Grills such as Dishoom’s invigoratingly spiced lamb chops share the billing with slow-cooked biryanis, various ‘Ruby Murrays’ and the house special – salli boti (braised lamb in rich gravy served with crunchy ‘crisp chips’ and buttered roomali roti).

To finish, a creamy, cooling kulfi fits the bill admirably. Drinkers are also handsomely served with a bewildering array of ‘sharbats’, coolers, esoteric beers, wines and cocktails on offer: don’t miss the special Horniman’s Old Fashioned, named after Benjamin Horniman - a friend of Patrick Geddes and editor of The Bombay Chronicle.

Hugely popular, not least for its 'super-fair' pricing and vibrant, inclusive atmosphere, this South Indian favourite takes a masterly approach to carbs. Dosas, which can be roasted with homemade ghee or stuffed with the house potato masala, are big, crisp and shiny, while the parathas are gloriously ragged and the pooris puffy. Eat them with veggie and vegan curries such as tempting tamarind chickpeas, though there are homespun takes on chicken and lamb classics too. Everything comes together on Sundays for 'particularly good' sapaad feasts, popular across the generations. A new outdoor space is getting noticed.

In recent months, a number of restaurant openings have put the spotlight on Notting Hill as a broadly based foodie destination. Empire Empire, from Harneet Baweja of the Gunpowder group, is one of them. Inspired by India’s 1970s disco scene, it’s a cosy dining space with an old-school look rather than Bollywood-style overkill: think coloured tiled flooring, dark wood furnishings, oval-shaped lighting and white tablecloths. In addition, there's a jukebox and a photo booth, while vintage album covers of Indian disco performers and artwork by leading artists, Jorgensen Chowdhury and Rabin Mondal, adorn the whitewashed walls. Infectious Indian disco tunes provide fun and energy and the whole place is run in a relaxed and amiable manner. The food focuses on northwest India and the Punjab, with nashta (snacks) and starters, kebabs and tikkas, biryanis and curries. We enjoyed moreish deep-fried golden-brown fish and prawn Amritsari pakoras, and the charcoal grill was put to good use for a tender bihari ribeye beef kebab. Flavours are big and rich with spice – witness a gamey sag gosht and a bhindi dopiaza packed with tomatoes and onion. The naan bread, fresh from the oven, is irresistible, while sweet and spongy gulab jamun with ice cream figures among the desserts. To drink, cocktails and beers line up alongside a concise list of natural wines.

Named after a potent South Indian spice mix, not the black chemical explosive, this cute, cosy and cramped canteen on a backstreet near Spitalfields Market is East London’s take on a traditional Indian roadside dhaba. You can’t book, space is tight, and the decor is bare bones (think exposed brickwork, functional furnishings and no-frills crockery), but the kitchen delivers on its promise. Home-style recipes from the owners’ native Kolkata are reworked and recast as intriguing small plates with plenty of up-front fire and spice – as in egg curry masala, the house chaat with Norfolk potatoes or punchy venison and vermicelli doughnuts (a top call on the succinct menu). Alternatively, if sharing is your preference, go for bigger plates such as steamed sea bass infused with mustard, pork ribs and tamarind kachumbar or spinach with tandoori paneer. For afters, the must-have dessert is the Old Monk rum pudding – a boozy ‘bread and butter’ riff, served with an extra shot of liquor if you want it. Two dozen spice-friendly wines (from £30) match the food; otherwise, plump for a can of thirst-quenching Disco lager or a frisky gin wala Negroni. 

Originally inspired by colonial India’s Days of the Raj polo clubs, this thoroughbred from the JKS group (Trishna, Hoppers etc) is a classy Mayfair package spread over two levels connected by a mirrored staircase. Most of the action takes place in the ground-floor dining room and bar, with its richly upholstered leather seating, whirring ceiling fans, old prints and stag’s heads – not forgetting hunting trophies from the Maharaja of Jodhpur.

The menu shines the spotlight on grills, game and chops, all given a thrilling contemporary spin to match the gussied-up surroundings – from Goan-style salmon tikka with tomato chutney to guinea fowl pepper fry served with a Malabar paratha or tandoori lamb chops unexpectedly pointed up with walnut chutney. Elsewhere, pork cheek vindaloo and a wild muntjac biryani sound inviting, while fans of rogan josh and chicken butter masala also have plenty to cheer about. For something more esoteric, home in on the assortment of ‘nashta’ small plates, perhaps minced kid goat methi keema with pao bread or duck-egg bhurji scrambled with lobster and served alongside a Malabar paratha. Desserts (meetha) continue the mashed-up crossover theme, as in a take on tiramisu involving rasgulla (a syrupy, sponge-like Asian classic) or a Basmati rice pudding (kheer) spiced with cardamom and accompanied by mango sorbet.

The standalone bar dispenses cocktails and reinvented punches, alongside nibbles of Amritsari shrimps or Punjabi samosas with sweet/sour tamarind-spiked 'saunth' chutney. Otherwise, specially brewed 4th Rifles Pale Ale and a compendium of thoughtfully selected wines (including some English sparklers) suit the food admirably.

A neighbourhood favourite on the route of one of south Manchester's most characterful passeggiatas, Indique continues to generate enthusiastic feedback. The kitchen's hand with flavour extends across its Indian street food, grills and signature curries, with classic vegetable dishes especially well-judged. Striking presentation and the odd visual flourish may be contemporary, but they contribute to a sense of old-fashioned care.

Taking its name from the intricate 16th-century lace shawls of Kashmir, this lavish Mayfair spot has become a ‘beacon for those seeking both luxury and authenticity’ – a meticulously orchestrated celebration of India’s culinary heritage in the heart of London’s West End. Inside, colonial grandeur meets modern flair with soft, warm lighting, swathes of marble, mother of pearl inserts and gorgeous, carefully curated artworks.

Jamavar’s refined, sophisticated design chimes perfectly with the food, which offers indulgence, invention and meticulous attention to detail – especially when it comes to sourcing prime seasonal produce. Small plates pull in ideas and flavours from across the Subcontinent, with the peppery bite of a perfectly crisp, garlicky soft-shell crab vying with kathal bhel – an inventive twist on the classic theme with jackfruit, tamarind and sun-dried tomato taking centre stage (‘it’s street food, yes, but not as you know it,’ thought one reporter).

Elsewhere, there is a lusciously rich Malvani prawn curry in a velvety coconut-infused sauce, while dum tarkari biryani is a fragrant delight with its delicate blend of spices and subtle nuances. Or look to the tandoor for a version of chicken tikka enlivened with sweet basil, pickled radish and yoghurt or dip into the roster of curries – perhaps butter chicken or laal maas (eight-hour slow-cooked Hampshire lamb shank with Rajasthani chilli).

Skilfully crafted sides such as gobhi mutter (cauliflower with peas) add extra layers of taste and texture to proceedings, while desserts are guaranteed to delight and surprise – as in a pistachio milk cake strewn with rose petals or mango rasmalai (‘a work of art’ combining a light wheat biscuit with mango cream and a tangy chutney). To drink, one reporter enjoyed the refreshing ‘tropical escapism’ of a Lychee Cooler, although the hefty international wine list offers more than 25 tempting selections by the glass.

In an area of south London crying out for decent places to eat, we have high hopes that this 'really good', all-day Indian newcomer will succeed. Kachori certainly sticks out from the local competition. Found on the ground floor of a new development by Elephant and Castle tube station, it exudes coolness; the room is big and glossy, scoring highly with its slick bar, black-and-white chequered flooring, dark wood furnishings, oval cut-glass lights and muslin canopies over gold-coloured banquettes. You might think you are in W1 but, even with the growing gentrification of this area, it's unlike anywhere else in SE17. The kitchen is headed by Brinder Narula (ex-Gymkhana, Benares), who has developed a menu inspired by the cooking of northern India – so expect small plates, burgers with an Anglo-Indian twist, biryanis, tandooris and grills, as well as enticing larger plates. We started with the restaurant’s namesake, a huge ball of truffle-infused green-pea kachori (a deep-fried sticky snack), as well as melt-in-your-mouth spice-infused guinea fowl tikka served with 'tempered curd rice'. Spot-on spicing was also a feature of bigger dishes, from shelled jumbo prawns cooked in the tandoor and teamed with avocado raita to a richly favoured goat bhuna with cumin, cloves, pickled ginger and turmeric, while a vegetarian stir-fry of soft portobello mushroom was neatly contrasted by the crunchiness of pak choi. To finish, do make room for the masala chai brûlée. Other plus points include friendly service, a fairly priced set lunch, a dozen cocktails and a short wine list, with bottles from £25.

A well-trodden restaurant site hard by Chelsea’s Cadogan Hall is the setting for this solo outing from ex-Tamarind chef Peter Joseph. Like Tamarind, Kahani (the name means ‘story’ in Hindi) occupies a high-ceilinged basement room that has been gilded with luxe features (seductive low lighting, stylish wall coverings, crimson banquettes, armchair seating), while food is prepared in an open-to-view kitchen. The chef made his name with a repertoire of dishes that fused Indian spices and cooking techniques with British ingredients – and Kahani’s menu tells a similar tale. Small plates open the show: seared scallops coated in star anise and served with smoked pepper chutney and shrimp pickle is typical, although veggies might prefer the spiced green-pea cake with cranberry chutney. Bigger dishes focus on the chargrill and tandoor, from venison keema accompanied by a truffle naan to grilled stone bass coated with brown garlic and sun-dried tomato purée. Specials and ‘dawat’ (feasting) dishes are also worth a punt – perhaps a chargrilled sirloin kebab with truffle oil, ground fennel and royal cumin. Apart from a ‘medley of kulfis’, desserts are westernised classics – toffee and date pudding with custard sauce, for example. A full vegan menu, pre-theatre deals and even an Indian ‘weekend roast’ are further inducements for well-heeled Chelsea locals, who are also happy to pay handsomely for exclusive spice-friendly bottles from the ritzy wine list.

The Sanskrit word ‘kutir’ means ‘a small cottage in the middle of nowhere’; in fact, Kutir (the restaurant) occupies a luxe Chelsea townhouse not a million miles from Buckingham Palace – although inspiration comes from India's wildlife lodges ('away from the hustle and bustle of everyday life'). There's no doubting that chef Rohit Ghai's cooking is transportive, with its compellingly creative take on Indian cuisine including ‘expedition’ tasting menus (with optional wine pairings) that can ‘surprise and delight’.

Pressing the doorbell to gain entry adds to the sense of exclusivity, as does the smart decor which references India's stunning natural world. The atmosphere is ‘perfect for special occasions’, helped by staff who can be guaranteed to deliver ‘great service’; there’s also a delightful terrace for summer dining. Traditional ideas get decidedly modern treatment, as in a duck starter that is fruitily embellished with cranberry, kumquat, pickle and chutney, while the tandoor yields such esoteric, smoky delights as paneer tikka with sorrel, lime murabba, tomato salsa and crispy rice or a quail naan with truffle, masala scrambled egg, mince and oil.

Seafood also shows up well when it comes to main courses including wild jumbo prawns with coconut and curry leaf or pan-seared sea bass with jaggery and yoghurt rice. Guinea fowl arrives in a biryani, while desserts might feature a take on crème brûlée involving heritage carrots, reduced milk and orange. The globetrotting wine list has slim pickings below £40, although there’s a decent choice by the glass or carafe. Otherwise, drink Indian lager, IPA or something from the innovative list of Indian-inspired cocktails.    

There are some restaurants that surprise you, as with this branch of the four-strong Masala Zone mini chain. After a refit, it looks and feels just right, from its glowing golden lights, rich colours and comfortable chairs to the touches of glamour thrown in for good measure. But we shouldn’t be too surprised – this restaurant is part of a highly regarded group, including Chutney Mary, Veeraswamy and Amaya, owned by Ranjit Mathrani, Namitha and Camellia Panjabi. On offer is a short menu of Indian favourites from across the subcontinent: a comfortingly rich, silky northern-style butter chicken sitting adjacent to a version from Mangalore redolent of chilli and warming spices; a modern-day chicken tikka next to a classic korma; and a Goan prawn curry appearing alongside that northern Indian staple, lamb rogan josh. Expect vegetable curries, biryanis and thalis, too, and the excellent homemade paneer (prepared daily) is not to be missed. In addition, there’s a wide choice of street snacks served as starters, perhaps gently spiced lamb sliders in caramelised onion pao bread and, from Mumbai’s Chowpatty Beach, a superb sprouted lentil bhel (a crispy salad tangy with tamarind); otherwise, choose five or seven small dishes to make a satisfying main or two-course meal. Keen prices and charming service ensure regular full houses, and it’s worth getting into the mood by flirting with one of the spiced-up cocktails. The wine list works well with the food (everything is available by the glass, carafe or bottle).

Consistency is the watchword at this ‘beautiful’ family-run Indian restaurant, and there’s hearty applause for its delicate, precise and creative approach to Indian cuisine. By all means choose a classic jalfrezi, dhansak or korma, but the elegantly presented riches of Montaz are best displayed elsewhere on a contemporary menu that changes with the seasons. 

As an opener, you might find samosas filled with slow-cooked diced lamb’s liver and potato or a clever chaat involving crispy Jerusalem artichoke, sweet mint chutney and pomegranate. Regional home-style dishes are cooked low and slow – try the beef Chettinad with grated coconut and Kashmiri chilli marinade or tandoori grilled duck fired with green chilli and achari bhuna sauce. Also check out the Montaz signature dishes – perhaps 12-hour slow-cooked ox cheek with aloo bhurta, wilted spinach and tomato kachumbar or nalli ghost (lamb shank with an onion sauce perfumed with rose petals).

To drink? A gentle Chenin Blanc from the Sula Vineyards in Nashik, Maharashtra is a fine match, though it has to be said a cold Cobra beer hits the spot too. Readers appreciate the restaurant’s lovely vibe and superb service, adding that everyone who dines here is ‘sure to have a full stomach and a smile on their face’.

There is a genuine feeling of affection radiating from the many readers’ reports we receive for this cutting-edge Indian restaurant. To be sure, it’s an unashamedly smart destination and visitors appreciate the comfortable, softly lit lounge and the dining room’s elegant neutrality as well as the sense of theatre provided by the spectacular open kitchen.

Birmingham-born Aktar Islam has been pursuing his own path here since 2018, his culinary style vigorous and imaginative, a mix of aspirant riffs on familiar Indian recipes and stellar British seasonal produce. Once you’ve snagged a reservation expect clever textures, thrilling contrasts and exact spicing. From the palate-awakening shot of cucumber, green chilli and apple juice served with snacks such as an ethereal oyster emulsion with perfectly judged chilli broth and coriander oil to petits fours that might include a pistachio-crumbed madeleine straight out of the oven, the chef’s intricately realised multi-course menus pulse with innovation and flavour.

Sublime tandoori sand carrot jumbled with mini lentil pakoras is given added vibrancy with mint and coriander, while other stand-outs range from aloo tuk (pink fir potato with mango and tamarind) to a tantalising slice of tender hogget loin fringed with beautifully flavoured fat and served with its slow-cooked shoulder – made all the more memorable by a subtle hint of heat that lingers gently on the palate. Beyond these anchor points, we were equally delighted by a buttery, flaky just-baked milk bread, and an intriguing ‘After Eight’ chocolate finale involving pine ice cream and mint compôte.

Service appears to have thawed since our last visit; the front of house staff and the chefs who delivered dishes to our table were on the ball and warmly welcoming. Drinks impress too. Cocktails blended to match the cuisine are a particular strength, and the wine list – also carefully tailored to complement the spicing– flies you first-class around the world, with by-the-glass choices from £16.

* Avinash Shashidhara has announced his departure from the restaurant after a five-year stint. More details to follow.* 

Avinash Shashidhara honed his craft at Claude Bosi’s Hibiscus (RIP) and the River Café but has gone back to his roots at this comfortably relaxed Indian restaurant on the site of the once-legendary Gaylord curry house. Pahli Hill (named after a Mumbai suburb) looks and feels just right, with its glowing lights, fragrant aromas, colourful Indian paintings and woven cane chairs. Limber up with a cocktail or two in the subterranean Bandra Bhai bar before returning upstairs for a menu of regional sharing plates executed with skill, precision and subtlety. Anything from the grill or tandoor is a sound bet, perhaps Cornish monkfish (marinated in mango pickle) with monk's beard, grilled corn and lime or meltingly tender lamb cutlets, spiced with black pepper, cumin and curry leaves – all mollified by a cooling mint raita. Other top calls have included crisp Pondicherry fried squid with pumpkin and Guntur chilli chutney, a gorgeous ‘home-style’ fish curry packed with mussels and halibut, and a dish of Chettinad-style veal shin with black pepper, fennel and chilli, best eaten with some flaky flatbread fresh from the tandoor. Service does its job admirably, and there are plenty of thoughtfully chosen spice-friendly wines to match the food.

The edge-of-Leeds location isn't glamorous but Prashad continues to draw fans from all over Yorkshire; there are some very smart cars in the car park. Minal Patel's cooking style and creativity have grown steadily over the years; her food has always been fragrant, with vivid aromatics the dominant feature, but today the most significant difference is in the presentation. What was once a fairly rustic offering is now a masterclass in creative plating without being outright dots-and-dribbles cheffy. The notion of an amuse-bouche was once a stretch, but now it’s likely you’ll get a spoon of slow-roasted dhal with gram-flour vermicelli and beetroot chutney. Sweet and earthy, it’s the perfect way to kick-start a meal. Among the classics are kopra pethis (fresh coconut dough balls, precisely spherical, zesty and moist) and mausmi ghota (essentially a crunchy-on-the-outside/soft-on-the-inside ball of spiky root ginger and herby mint with mashed Jerusalem artichokes), while sanku (a deeply traditional dosa) is presented as dinky ice-cream cones. Kofta (spiced lentil dough balls revved up with caraway-infused tomato rasam) hit all the senses, while the paneer and cauliflower biryani is a salty-sweet-heat firework. The setting is a cavernous former pub but there's no doubt you're in an Indian restaurant (complete with flashes of pink bling); there's also a subtle, sophisticated vibe, emphasised by the seven-course tasting menu, a delicate distillation of regular dishes and a great introduction to the depth and complexity of Minal Patel's cooking. Excellent craft beer pairings match the food, Cobra is on tap, and there’s an all-vegan and organic wine list – in addition to cocktails and mocktails.

Specialising in the culinary traditions of Kerala in southern India, Tharavadu generates a voluminous stream of plaudits from loyal customers. It has the kind of fanbase that not only returns regularly, but has acquired some knowledge of the distinctive regional specialities the kitchen deals in. The former captain of India's test cricket team, Virat Kohli, is a confirmed supporter, and there ought to be no arguing with an endorsement like that. In the warm embrace of hospitable staff, everybody feels welcome, and the kitchen hits one highlight after another. The mutta roast starter, a preparation of boiled eggs in chilli-hot tomato and onion, served with appam, is technically a breakfast dish, but who's counting? A more conventional way in might be with adipoli chemmeen, grilled prawns alight with their spice marinade, served with lemon chutney. Fans dream of the meen koottan, a classic coastal fish curry replete with Keralan seasonings and kokum mangosteen, best ordered with house paratha. Lamb mappas is a traditional Easter dish of the regional Christian community, incorporating spinach and a complex mix of garam masala and other spices. There's fresh okra in mustard as a side-order, zesty lemon rice to accompany, and cardamom and saffron vermicelli if you've any room left. A decent wine list, from £17.95, should cope with the cooking.

If you can’t get a decent Ruby in Bradford then it’s a poor reflection on a city that’s home to some of the most venerable ‘curry houses’ in the land. Not that longevity necessarily means quality but there’s usually a reason a restaurant’s clientele stays loyal. The International has retained a cult standing since 1976 and it's still family run. There is little secret to its success: reliably good, freshly cooked, homely food served in a lively, modern but unpretentious setting at exceptionally good-value prices. Plus waiting staff who welcome you in as part of The International family with jolly smiles and service that is speedy, helpful and patient when you’re wavering over what to choose. There are plenty of tried-and-tested old-school favourites such as shami kebabs, samosas, lamb chops shashlik, karahis, biryanis and baltis. Traditional Punjabi desi dishes are also worth exploring – lamb on the bone, paya (lamb's trotters), maghaz (brains) and nihari (baby lamb cooked overnight) – alongside more complex ideas such as chicken nawabi khana and lamb masaledar. The menu indicates the spiciness of each dish but individual preferences and requests are graciously taken into account. Vegetarian choice is exemplary and, given the generous portions, it's quite possible to make a full meal of several ‘sides’ or appetisers – and no one bats an eyelid if you want to take leftovers home. All main dishes are served with a choice of chapatis, rotis, rice or super-fluffy naan. There's no dessert menu, and no alcohol either (though you can bring your own), but there is a selection of mocktails and lassi. The International’s sister restaurant is on Sticker Lane, with seating for 300.

Following on from the Tamil Prince in Barnsbury, Prince Durairaj (of Roti King fame) has repeated the formula in what was the old Charles Lamb pub on Elia Street, just behind Angel station. The Tamil Crown is almost a carbon copy of its predecessor, although it feels calmer and there’s more space: the venue is spread over two floors with a traditional dining room upstairs and a ground-floor space including a bar, complete with a cosy fireplace, candles and a sofa – ideal if you fancy a pint and a quick bite.

Staff are keen to upsell, but we prefer to keep it cheap and simple by ordering just one dish – the beef masala uthappam (like a smaller, thick dosa spread with spicy meat) is an ‘absolute standout’. Quite a few staple dishes have made the move from the Prince to the Crown, notably regional classics from the eponymous Tamil Nadu region of the subcontinent: the crispy okra fries, robata lamb chops and Thanjavur chicken curry are all present and correct, although our prawn moilee suffered from cloying coconut overkill.

The billowing, flaky roti breads are excellent (as you would expect given Prince Durairaj’s background) and drinkers have plenty of ales on tap, as well as some spiced-up cocktails and well-chosen wines. Also check out the Sunday menu, with its masala-roasted chickens and lamb shanks plus Indian veg, roast potatoes and gravy. 

Occupying a former pub in the Barnsbury quarter of Islington, this regional Indian restaurant has become a huge hit with knowledgeable locals. Set up by chef Prince Durairaj (previously at Roti King) and JKS GM Glen Leeson, it offers a smartly attired interior featuring dark walls and a weathered bare-wood floor, plus bar counter seating and a bamboo-shielded terrace out front. As the name indicates, the cooking is at least partly oriented to the southern states of India – and it displays plenty of brio. Proceedings might start with fried prawn and curry-leaf varuval, dressed in an assertive spicy paste. Hailing from the northern reaches of the Subcontinent, the huge, puffed chana bhatura (deep-fried bread accompanied by chickpeas and raita) is something of a showstopper. Returning to Tamil Nadu, the Chettinad lamb curry has impressive depth of flavour, with exhilarating spicing and tender meat, or there is an equally zesty Thanjavur chicken dish. Small, candy-like chunks of paneer are the stars of a butter masala. Durairaj's previous experience shows in the superb buttery roti, an accompaniment that should not be missed. To conclude, gulab jamun is unctuously sweet (as expected), but with a firmer, more satisfying texture than is typical. If that seems a bit much after the substantial preceding dishes, look to mango lassi for refreshment. There is some sound drinking on offer too, with cocktails and mocktails boasting Indian flavours – the rebooted Piña Colada with cinnamon, toasted coconut and lime zest is a doozy. An imaginative wine selection opens at £29 (£8 a glass), while water is served in repurposed gin bottles.

Operating since 1984 on Soap Street, This & That is thought to be the birthplace of ‘rice ‘n’ three’. After the influx of migrant workers to Manchester’s textile mills in the 1960s, South Asian food started being served across the city, predominantly in the industrial centre of town – the Northern Quarter. Canteens like This & That were originally created to feed the workers of the nearby warehouses, but nowadays they are filling the bellies of people who live in town, tourists and office workers alike. Quite literally a plate of rice with a choice of three curries, this plate of food has been around since the 1980s and continues to be one of the most popular choices in the city for a quick wholesome meal under 10 quid. Whilst rice ‘n’ three is thought to have started at This & That, many places serving the meal are still going strong today. Check out our local guide. 

Taking its inspiration from the Subcontinent's street-food vendors, Urban Choola offers an inviting mix of curry-house stalwarts and less predictable dishes. Expect anything from rogan josh, creamy Goan fish curry, rich dhal makhani and sticky gulab jamun to 'incredibly flavoursome' onion, kale and spinach bhajiyas or nalli gosht (tender osso buco-style lamb shank in a tomato-based sauce) – all delivered with due care and attention to detail. Cocktails complement a short but reasonably priced selection of spice-friendly wines. All in all, good-value food backed by warm, welcoming service.

Atul Kochhar was among the first generation of chefs to reinvent Indian cooking for the modern age. At his second Marlow address (he also runs Sindhu by the riverside), a gentle atmosphere is created by means of muted woodland colours, a sequence of matching framed pictures and festoon lighting across the ceiling.

However, there is plenty to excite the imagination on a series of resourceful menus that might feature tandoori broccoli with tomato chutney and pomegranate to start, or perhaps baked spiced scallops with cauliflower purée and herb-scented ghee. Spicing is generally found to be on the mild side, so don't expect to be blasted with chilli – certainly not when lobster cooked in the tandoor comes with caramelised tomato and coconut korma alongside a grilled pineapple salad.

A knowledgeable reader was particularly impressed by what Kochhar makes of traditional dishes like dhal makhani and saag gosht, but it is the more speculative ideas such as muntjac venison with aubergine, celeriac purée and a sauce of berries and chocolate that will tantalise a novelty-hungry crowd. By the time desserts are offered, the influence of Subcontinental cooking may have receded to a dot on the Indian Ocean horizon – or so it seems with carrot cake and walnut brittle, or chocolate fondant with berry salsa. Prepare your palate with an apposite cocktail such as a fragrantly fizzy jaggery and coriander mojito, before moving on to full-bodied wines with bags of tang.

Like all good things, the UK’s oldest Indian restaurant (estab. 1926) has spawned a string of imitators under the aegis of Ranjit Mathrani, Namitha and Camellia Panjabi (the family behind Chutney Mary, Amaya and the Masala Zone group), but Veeraswamy simply shrugs off the years and carries on as before. A lift whisks you from street level to the first-floor dining room where large windows overlook Regent Street and the warm, cossetting decor nods to the Days of the Raj with vintage memorabilia. Backstage, chefs deftly layer flavour upon flavour in home-style cooking that blends renditions of the classic repertoire with some exceptional house specials. Ideas are lifted from all over India: Malvani prawn curry from the south Konkan coast comes in a rich sauce heady with turmeric, red chilli, coconut and dried kokum flower, while an unusual crab biryani from Bhatkal (in the coastal area of western India) is a superb exploration of the power of aged basmati rice to absorb flavours – here saffron and cinnamon leaf – while letting the delicacy of the fresh crustacean to shine. Street food puts in an appearance too: momos (Tibetan dumplings) are now fully absorbed into Indian street culture – here they are filled with chicken, softly steamed and finished in the tandoor. The sourcing of ingredients is important too. Welsh lamb supplies the tender chops that are grilled with a blend of cloves, fennel and rose petal, and go so well with a fine pineapple curry. And one of the most likeable things on the menu is the excellent homemade paneer prepared using full-fat Jersey milk and served in a light tomato sauce with peppers, garden peas, and cashew nuts. Naan fingers with garlic and sea salt are light and soft, service is friendly and attentive, and wines have been chosen for compatibility with the food.