Jamavar
Mayfair, London
Spread across two floors on one of the capital's most exclusive streets, this extravagant Mayfair hot spot is a luxurious prospect – think swathes of marble flooring, copper-gold framed mirrors, mother-of-pearl insets, dark wood panelling, alluring lighting and lots of polished leather. Originally created for the Leela Palaces, Hotels & Resorts group in India, Jamavar arrived in London in 2016 and continues to serve up some of the most sophisticated Indian food in town. Underpinned by prime seasonal produce, an indulgent menu criss-crosses the Subcontinent, adding a few modern-day twists and delivering the likes of Narangi prawns with tangy orange-blossom butter, coconut chips and dried lime granules, which got our meal off to a bright start. Also worthy of attention was a tantalising fillet of Malai stone bass, marinated with mace and green cardamom before being cooked in the tandoor, the delicate flavours perfectly matched by an avocado and mint chutney. A rich, gamey curry of kid goat with cinnamon and fresh fenugreek leaves was another standout, while the searing heat of the tandoor worked wonders on some large morels, allowing their umami to mingle with green peas, tomato and mint chutney. Skilled and sensitive craftsmanship continued right to the end when a seasonal rasmalai hit the sweet spot perfectly – the spongy wheat confection served with a creamy syrup flavoured with winter berries and saffron. The wine list is big and international, with the emphasis on European growers; prices reflect the prestigious postcode although, commendably, there are more than 25 selections by the glass too.
