10 Good Food Guide restaurants for a Burns Night celebration Published 23 January 2024
A trusty MacSween’s and some neeps and tatties are all very well for a homemade Burns Night, but nothing beats the ceremony of celebrating the Scottish bard in good company. Prepare to be regaled by Robin the bagpiper at Sam’s Riverside, raise a dram at Cannonball in Edinburgh or join fellow dinners in reciting the Address to a Haggis before tucking into haggis doughnuts at The Golden Ball in Henley.
Eco-conscious fire-fuelled eatery next to the 40FT Brewery
In a foodie courtyard behind Dalston Junction, the inviting smell of burning embers and charring now mingles with the aromas of hops and freshly baked loaves. Those embers are from Acme Fire Cult – a low-budget, eco-consciou… Read more
In a foodie courtyard behind Dalston Junction, the inviting smell of burning embers and charring now mingles with the aromas of hops and freshly baked loaves. Those embers are from Acme Fire Cult – a low-budget, eco-conscious eatery devoted to fire-fuelled cooking, with plenty of noise and loud music adding to the vibe and more than half the tables outside, under cover and close to the smoky action. But this isn’t just another dude-food BBQ joint: here, vegetables are elevated to a starring role, with rare-breed meats and day-boat fish providing the support acts. There’s also much use of micro-seasonal ferments and by-products from the 40FT Brewery next door – Acme even makes its own version of Marmite from leftover yeast.
The menu is a globe-straddling line-up of unorthodox but exciting modern dishes: coal-roasted leeks with pistachio and romesco are a favourite with readers (‘salty, sweet, delicious and utterly incredible’), likewise tomatoes with green goddess and sorrel. As meat and fish are introduced, you might find chunks of lamb makhani meatballs (a homely dish with ‘subtly balanced spices’) a Tamworth pork chop with mojo rojo or whole gilthead bream slathered with guanjillo chill butter. For afters, there’s usually a choice of two seasonal offerings, perhaps saffron and honey-poached pear with sesame and vanilla yoghurt.
Saturday means brunch, while on Sundays everyone piles in for the sharing platters of grilled and smoked meats piled high on dripping toast (‘it’s the only place where I’d happily be outdoor for my roast,’ commented one fan). To drink, mezcal margaritas fly out of the bar, seven taps dispense brews from 40FT and the concise wine list is a knowledgeable, well-researched slate.
A ‘very reliable’ Mayfair fixture since 1916, the self-titled ‘grand dame of Swallow Street’ is still shucking oysters with a vengeance under the stewardship of chef/patron Richard Corrigan. These days, reg… Read more
A ‘very reliable’ Mayfair fixture since 1916, the self-titled ‘grand dame of Swallow Street’ is still shucking oysters with a vengeance under the stewardship of chef/patron Richard Corrigan. These days, regulars agree that its two great assets are the ground-floor Oyster Bar and the spacious gem of a terrace on Swallow Street itself (heated and covered for year-round bonhomie).
If you’re indoors, the best seats are indubitably at the marble-topped bar counter, where you can watch the chefs expertly flashing their thick-bladed oyster knives and doing the business on ‘natives’ and ‘rocks’ from places as far apart as Donegal, Oban and Jersey – although one fan reckons the Pembrokeshire specimens deserve a special mention. Otherwise, squeeze into one of the close-packed tables for a more formal and ‘extremely fresh’ piscine blowout – perhaps scallop ceviche dressed with jalapeño, mint and lime ahead of Dover sole meunière or pan-seared turbot with olive-oil mash and langoustine sauce.
Readers have praised the impeccable Cornish fish stew packed with myriad different species in a tomato and saffron broth, although you can also feast on classics such as fish and chips, fish pie and Bentley’s handsome shellfish platters. Pudding might be crème caramel with Armagnac-soaked prunes or a bitter chocolate mousse embellished with cherries, gold leaf and amaretto. The classy fish-friendly wine list is priced for Mayfair’s big spenders, although it does offer some excellent bargains by the glass.
Scottish all-rounder tailor made for tourists and locals
‘Everything you want for a night out – lovely place, great food and friendly, knowledgeable service,’ noted one visitor eager to sample Edinburgh’s touristy charms at this historic restaurant owned by … Read more
‘Everything you want for a night out – lovely place, great food and friendly, knowledgeable service,’ noted one visitor eager to sample Edinburgh’s touristy charms at this historic restaurant owned by the city’s redoubtable Contini family – there’s even a whisky bar next door for those who fancy a dram or two.
An old cannonball lodged in the outer wall of the premises gives the place its name and you can even sample local haggis ‘cannonballs’ (with pickled turnips and whisky cream) for that extra ‘och aye’. But that’s where the frivolous clichés end. This venue is serious about Scottish produce and knows how to handle it with aplomb, serving battered Peterhead haddock, East Coast lobsters with garlic butter and braised beef featherblade accompanied by confit garlic crumb, red cabbage and parsnip purée.
Many vegetables come from the Contini Kitchen Garden (Jerusalem artichokes with roast cod, for example), and cheeses are true Scottish patriots such as Lanark Blue and Elrick Log. To conclude, desserts offer comfort in the shape of a chocolate cannonball with pumpkin and crème fraîche or spiced crème brûlée with Tarocco blood orange. ‘The style of food is terrific,’ says one fan, and the short, sharp wine list kicks off with organic house selections from Spain.
Slip away from the frenzy that surrounds Liverpool Street station into this charming little piece of Paris (formerly Galvin Hop). You’ll find all the expected tropes here: red-check tablecloths, windows stencilled with brass let… Read more
Slip away from the frenzy that surrounds Liverpool Street station into this charming little piece of Paris (formerly Galvin Hop). You’ll find all the expected tropes here: red-check tablecloths, windows stencilled with brass letters advertising ‘bière’ and ‘tarte flambée’, and efficient waiters in blue-striped tops. Order up a bowlful of blistered Padrón peppers, or share one of those snackably crisp tartes. Move on to a chunky pork terrine studded with whole pistachios, sweetened with prunes and perked up with pickles – or a serving of burrata, whose mild softness is invigorated by a draping of Bayonne ham and the charred edge of roasted delica pumpkin. Mains could be a piece of pearly cod on a heap of creamy coco de Paimpol beans with wilted spinach, or Ibérico pork that ripples with flavour-giving fat and comes with celeriac, caramelised apple and chunks of black pudding to create an autumnal feast of a dish – the standout of our October visit. To finish? A classic tarte tatin could fit the bill, or a bright buttermilk panna cotta heaped with blackberries and scattered with shortbread. It’s always good to see wines by the 500ml carafe – in keeping with the Parisian bistro vibe. Look out for the lunchtime prix-fixe – £28 for three courses – if you fancy lingering over a déjeuner that’s easier on the pocket than many similar restaurants.
Patricia Michelson started selling cheese in 1992 with a consignment of Beaufort Chalet d'Alpage; today, her esteemed Marylebone emporium/deli is a turophile’s treasure-trove with some 200 specimens in its temperat… Read more
Patricia Michelson started selling cheese in 1992 with a consignment of Beaufort Chalet d'Alpage; today, her esteemed Marylebone emporium/deli is a turophile’s treasure-trove with some 200 specimens in its temperature-controlled cheese room. But there’s more. Head to the adjoining café ‘at No 6’ for bespoke cheese selections prettily arranged on wooden boards, plus a roll call of daytime treats ranging from breakfast croissants, eggs and suchlike to headlining lunches – artisan charcuterie, pâté en croûte with prunes, wild boar tagliatelle, twice-baked Gruyère soufflé and myriad home-baked sweet things. Drink coffee from Le Piantagioni or something from the European wine list. It’s normally walk-ins only, but on Fridays they open late and take bookings.
A little creative reconfiguration of its ground-floor space has worked well at this old Soho player. Where once a revolving door scuttled you into a large lobby, there is now a more direct route in, with crimson banquettes against… Read more
A little creative reconfiguration of its ground-floor space has worked well at this old Soho player. Where once a revolving door scuttled you into a large lobby, there is now a more direct route in, with crimson banquettes against cafe-curtained windows and smart linen-clad tables setting the scene. A good deal of its business is pre-theatre, so the evening session proceeds in measured waves, but service is attuned to timing without the need for anyone to feel hustled. Jeremy Lee has always worked at the popular end of the Anglo-French spectrum. A warm cuttlefish salad comes with finely shaved fennel, celery and a tangle of caramelised onions for sweet, earthy depth, while simple seasonal veg starters such as beetroot with a soft-boiled egg, or asparagus vinaigrette, get their early-doors chance to shine. Pie of the day is an amply satisfying behemoth, perhaps harbouring chicken, guinea fowl and lardons within its suet crust, the chips crisp and plentiful. Other meats might take in lamb shank or onglet, while mackerel with gooseberries and horseradish has been promoted to the grandeur of a full main course. Finish with île flottante in its carapace of honey-coloured caramel, or densely textured lemon tart with good crème fraîche. A handful of wines by the glass head up a list that hits its stride in the classic French regions.
Sam Harrison’s ‘wow factor’ brasserie has quickly become a local institution, where friends are cherished and first timers are welcomed with arms open wide. It's joyous, buzzy, unpretentious and a godsend fo… Read more
Sam Harrison’s ‘wow factor’ brasserie has quickly become a local institution, where friends are cherished and first timers are welcomed with arms open wide. It's joyous, buzzy, unpretentious and a godsend for the neighbourhood – especially as the man himself and his wonderfully accommodating staff help to create that special frisson of ‘show and anticipation’. The glorious setting by the river ‘feels a million miles from central London’, while the airy, clean-lined dining room (lots of light and glass) emanates an invitingly civilised glow. There’s also a much-in-demand outdoor terrace and a ‘spectacular’ bar – don’t miss the ‘oyster happy hour’. As for the cooking, seasonality rules and the kitchen is big on provenance, supporting local suppliers and the community (‘they even use ingredients from a farm on a nearby inner-city school,’ observed one fan). The result is a rolling roster of refreshingly straightforward but creative dishes noted for their bold, up-front flavours. Seafood platters go down a storm, but also expect anything from mussels with ‘nduja, spring onion and samphire to lamb rump accompanied by potato terrine, purple sprouting broccoli and wild garlic. Devotees of cheeseburgers, spatchcock poussin and lobster rolls won’t be disappointed, while those who are sweet of tooth can delight in desserts such as buttermilk panna cotta or rhubarb pavlova with lemon curd. Sam’s set menu is one of the capital’s bargains and locals descend in their droves for the terrific Sunday lunch blowout. There are also ‘special wines to discover’ from a well-chosen list offering affordable access and a decent selection by the glass.
Big-hitting local destination serving ambitious and elaborate food
‘The best Henley restaurant by a country mile!’ is just one of the many reports we’ve received about this comely pub since its reopening in November 2022. Located a mile or so outside the town in a bucolic settin… Read more
‘The best Henley restaurant by a country mile!’ is just one of the many reports we’ve received about this comely pub since its reopening in November 2022. Located a mile or so outside the town in a bucolic setting, the Golden Ball is a blend of old and new: the odd beam and various nook-like dining spaces balanced by modern colours and furniture, plus a classic blues soundtrack and a little garden out back. The food is ambitious and elaborate, reflecting Henley-raised Ben Watson’s time as sous-chef at Core by Clare Smyth, as well as his wife Priya’s Punjabi heritage.
Praise is lavished on the 'excellent value’ set lunch, where ham hock terrine with red cabbage purée could be followed by pheasant breast with braised leg bourguignon, then cheese from the Nettlebed Creamery. But the concise, regularly changing carte also keeps locals returning for more. We were shoehorned into a tiny alcove, but things looked up with the arrival of freshly baked, perfectly weighted white bread, served gratis with a choice of butters (whipped and spiced). First courses raise the bar even higher, witness a generous and flavoursome serving of tender pulled oxtail topped with creamy bone-marrow emulsion and served with a pot of thick dhal makhani. More bread made a good foil for this rich assembly. No complaints, either, about a meaty slab of John Dory, well-balanced with lightly cooked kale, mash and Jerusalem artichoke purée – enhanced with roasted girolle and a highly savoury mushroom and toasted yeast velouté.
Dessert, however, was a misstep, with mundane fruit letting down an otherwise expertly wrought dish of roasted and caramelised warm apple, puff pastry and lemon thyme ice cream – why do chefs from top kitchens rarely look beyond Granny Smith? Service, from Priya herself, was assured and welcoming, and care has also been lavished on the brief wine list – right down to our glass of juicy Vinho Verde.
*Owen Kenworthy has left the Pelican to take up the role of chef-patron at Julie's in Holland Park. Watch this space. *
Big, solid and glamorous, this strikingly converted Notting Hill corner pub has the exceptional atmosphere of… Read more
*Owen Kenworthy has left the Pelican to take up the role of chef-patron at Julie's in Holland Park. Watch this space. *
Big, solid and glamorous, this strikingly converted Notting Hill corner pub has the exceptional atmosphere of a genuinely valued neighbourhood hangout. That could mean squeezing through a throng (drinking top picks from Portobello Brewing and Bristol’s Lost and Grounded) to get to the dining room. The pay-off is in the gathering of chef-director Owen Kenworthy's estimable experience (Brawn, Primeur, The Wolseley) and a menu of modern British gems with provenance high on the priority list. Among the pub classics – sausage roll, Welsh rarebit, mince on toast and beef tartare (with Gentleman's Relish and crisps) – there's lots of fish. Hake, flakey and translucent comes smothered in brown butter, big langoustines are fresh enough to be eaten head-first, and a fabulous lobster and monkfish pie with lobster-head gravy provides indulgence for two to share. Veggie dishes aren't the ascetic alternative, though, if confit leeks with black-garlic sauce and crispy onions or Crown Prince pumpkin with sour cream are the measure. To finish, it's trifles, possets and parkin. The wine list is carefully curated and offers value at all price points.
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