World Cider Day: the best places to raise a glass
Published 02 June 2026

Now boasting a countryside setting to match the ‘wow’ factor of his cooking, Merlin Labron-Johnson’s second iteration of his wildly successful Bruton restaurant is already a proper destination. With four letting rooms now available, plus kitchen-garden tours and a purpose-built tea house in the pipeline, the ever-ambitious chef now affords guests the chance to immerse themselves in the wellspring of his farm-to-table philosophy: the British countryside and its abundant produce.

Looming stark and white in the green Somserset countryside, the new premises occupy a former country pub that has been both stripped back and dramatically extended. The plain walls and bare flagstone floor of the reception lounge, where aperitifs and the first amuse-bouche are served, give no clue to the architectural drama beyond. An almost theatrical space, the main dining area opens directly into the kitchen, housed in a giant glass box looking out across fields at the back. Ask to be seated here so that you can watch Labron-Johnson and his team calmly weaving their magic.

No menus are offered until the meal is finished, but your trust will be repaid by a series of snacks, palate cleansers, pre-courses and specialities that wring extraordinary flavour from the humblest of ingredients – just consider a limpid tomato tea with droplets of grass-green fig-leaf oil, or a clutch of French beans on a pillow of almond cream, accompanying lamb served three ways, each detonating like a flavour bomb in your mouth. Later courses might include a quenelle of melon sorbet in a delightfully refreshing pool of cucumber and shiso water with spruce oil, or churros with meadowsweet ice cream, blackberry compôte and surprisingly pungent marigold leaves. Optional supplements are also available, say a cheese course of Baron Bigod melted over fruit bread, topped with black truffle and drizzled at the table with honey from the restaurant’s own hives.

Excellent service comes courtesy of a small army of cheerfully enthusiastic and highly capable young staff who are happy to chat about suppliers they have visited or what’s growing on the restaurant's two organic smallholdings. The wine list has been greatly expanded, though it still focuses on low-intervention bottles from small producers. Wine pairings remain a good-value choice and are carefully explained by the charming sommelier. We suggest allowing several hours to enjoy the full experience, rounding off with a lazy coffee and digestif.

London escapees Ivor and Susie Dunkerton started making organic cider and perry on their Herefordshire smallholding back in 1980 and their enterprise has reaped rich rewards ever since. The business is now run by their son and production has moved to Cheltenham, but inquisitive travellers can still visit the original cider mill – and its adjoining restaurant, housed in a beautiful Grade II-listed 400-year-old barn nearby. Run by local chef Sophie Bowen, it eschews folksy, homespun fodder in favour of stylish contemporary food inspired by ingredients from the surrounding countryside. At lunchtime, you can graze from the café menu (shallot fishcakes, teriyaki beef with pickled cabbage, seafood chowder), but it pays to book in for the full works in the evening – especially if you’re intrigued by the prospect of baked hake with creamy polenta, sautéed wild mushrooms and kale dressed with shrimps and capers or soy-marinated pork loin accompanied by a black pudding croquette, caraway-spiked spring greens and horseradish mayo. To finish, freshly fried doughnuts with citrus curd sound unmissable, but also consider the caramelised white chocolate, tarragon and rhubarb millefeuille. Sunday lunch is a showcase for slow-cooked Herefordshire beef with all the trimmings. To drink, one of Dunkertons fruity brews is the natural choice, but there’s also a short list of well-chosen wines from £21.

Everything you could want from a country pub (except perhaps a large garden) can be found in this attractively solid, Grade II-listed thatched inn. The low-ceilinged, oak-beamed room has a flagstone floor, a large open fireplace and almost every inch of wall space filled with ceramics, paintings and fascinating memorabilia. Landlord Robert Smallbone has been here for over 20 years and treats all his customers like old friends – an enthusiasm that inspires his friendly and helpful team.

Proudly listing local suppliers (‘The Mad Butcher of Winkleigh’ particularly catches the eye), the menu is best described as hearty Devon grub, and perhaps not the best place to take a strict vegetarian. A changing selection of soft-yolked Scotch eggs, served warm and crunchy from the fryer, and an individual beef Wellington with dauphinoise potatoes are highlights. Elsewhere, a wild venison burger topped with tangy Taw Valley Cheddar and a generous starter of breaded 'small fry' with garlic mayonnaise are reminders that the county is rich in both game and seafood. 

The list of desserts is almost as long as the main menu and ranges from sorbets to a chocolate and Devon stout steamed pudding, while the burnt cream made with blackcurrants grown in the village is big enough to share. The drinks list helpfully groups wines by character, although the pub is known for its well-kept local beers and ciders – so exploring what’s on tap is a good call.

Named after a brooding rocky promontory which is said to resemble the grotesque head of a gurnard, this gloriously remote clifftop inn is unmistakable, with its moniker emblazoned on the roof and its mustard-yellow exterior positively gleaming in the sunshine. Inside, all is cosily weatherproof, with open fires and comfy sofas for those who fancy a pint of real ale or cider in the bar. There’s an equally unfussy vibe in the dining room, where vivid primary colours, scrubbed-wood tables and paintings set the tone. Given the location, it’s no surprise that locally landed seafood is a mainstay of the menu – and that includes the ugly old gurnard from time to time. More likely are dishes such as cod paired with braised beef short rib, roasted shallot and gremolata or hake jazzed up with a global grab-bag of vada pav, aubergine pickle, dukkah and coriander. Otherwise, home in on duck leg with wild garlic and goat’s cheese orzo or roast broccoli with nettle and Stilton purée. Desserts are the heart-warming, comforting kind – perhaps sticky toffee pudding topped with a dollop of Cornish clotted cream for good measure. The owners’ slogan is ‘eat, drink, sleep’, so expect some idiosyncratic libations and guest rooms for those wanting to stay over.

Surrounded by a well-tended and very pretty kitchen garden with plenty of seating for summer visits, this handsome ‘contemporary British inn’ (the owners' words) promises ‘affordable luxury’ and, as far as the food is concerned, delivers in spades. The tastefully decorated dining room is spacious, comfortable and inviting (cream walls, exposed stonework, flagstones, bare wood tables), while a central woodburner creates a cosy vibe. Staff make you feel ‘like one of the family’ as soon as you walk in, and the service (led by co-owner Caroline Gardiner) is quietly friendly, professional and full of enthusiasm.

In the kitchen, charismatic Alan Lucas creates sophisticated and technically accomplished modern British dishes inspired by bountiful supplies of Somerset produce and pickings from the kitchen garden – and he is rightly proud of his efforts. Our seasonally apposite dinner was bookended by courgette carpaccio with roast garden tomatoes and pesto, and a pear crumble with custard made with fruit from the Holcombe's own trees. The endearingly enthusiastic chef often brings dishes to the table himself – perhaps confit duck leg with homemade redcurrant sauce or an 8oz Somerset sirloin accompanied by wild garlic pesto, onion tempura, pickled onion and fries. Accompanying vegetables, fresh from the garden, are beautifully presented and packed with flavour.

In addition to the carte, the Holcombe offers a terrific Sunday lunch and a good-value ‘midweek supper’ menu, while the drinks list includes a decent selection of wines by the glass, local beers and premium ciders from the Newt (a nearby country estate not far from Castle Cary).

In a Devon barn where grain was once threshed, the Lost Kitchen inspires readers with fresh ideas, a menu supplied by local farmers, and wood-fired cooking that scores highly on the all-important 'scrumptiousness' scale. A gorgeous terrace overlooking the gardens is a must when the sun comes out. Sharing plates mobilise plenty of assertive flavours, as do the tempting pizza variations, while grilling and roasting bring out the best in meat, fish and veggie options. A flexible approach means you can pop in for cake and a hot drink at most times, but tables go quickly for main meals, so always book ahead. West Country cheeses and multi-layered fruity desserts are not to be missed. Everyone agrees that the phenomenal staff help make this an experience to remember, as does the in-house beer and cider brewing. Meanwhile, there are enough wines by the glass to ring the changes for repeat visits.

For those in the know, the Queen’s Arms and its green and pleasant surrounds are more than just a handy pit stop near the A303 – they are a destination in their own right. In 2020, local resident and Ballymaloe alumnus Doune Mackenzie-Francis took on the pub with her family, transforming it into a model of contemporary country elegance. 

Along with charmingly renovated bedrooms and a cottage to rent, there’s a ‘pub hub’ offering coffee and provisions in lieu of a village shop. A rose-fringed garden and pleasant terrace allow visitors to drink in glorious views while inside, flagstone floors, open fires and the day’s papers on the bar make for an inviting space to lounge or dine after walking the Corton Denham Ridge.

In the kitchen, head chef Rich Townsend (who hails from the Newt, near Bruton) strikes an artful balance between pub classics and proper cooking. Refreshing tomato terrine with Westcombe ricotta and earthy lovage pesto wouldn’t feel out of place in a fancier establishment, but avoids being prissy. Chicken and mushroom pie comes stuffed with full-flavoured ceps, while the aged beef burger patty is paired with thick-cut smoked bacon from down the road and a potato bun made in-house. Pub classics are moored around the £20 mark and don’t require sides but it would be a shame to miss the crispy smashed pink fir potatoes adroitly seasoned with salt and vinegar.

Cocktails take up more real estate on the drinks menu than beers but a very good £10 ‘marg of the month’ – ours with a dash of spicy jalapeño syrup – is justification of sorts. Wines are a rung above the average pub line-up, with bottles starting at just under £30.

Deep in the otherworldly landscape of the Avalon Marshes (not far from Glastonbury), this quirky pub with rooms (and regular music) defies expectations. In summer you can dine on the wooden terrace at the back and watch the abundant wildlife on the nearby river Sheppey. Otherwise, the barn-like dining room, somewhat scruffily converted from an old cider house, is decorated with exhibits by local artists. The regularly changing and boldly flavoured menu offers a raft of eclectic dishes ranging from hearty fish stew (smoked haddock, clams, cod and salmon with Parmesan, fennel and lemongrass romesco) served with a hunk of sourdough to spiced fried tofu with a summer salad, fennel, crispy noodles, chilli and ginger dressing. More conventional pub dishes – beer-battered fish and chips, panko chicken burgers – are well executed too. Pudding might be orange and ginger sticky toffee pudding or scoops of homemade sorbet and ice cream. Drinks include an excellent selection of Somerset ciders, real ales and lagers, as well as a short selection of mainly organic red, white and orange wines.