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Osip

Somerset, Bruton - Modern British - Restaurant - ££££

A triumphant move to the country for Merlin Labron-Johnson

Overall Rating: Exceptional

Uniqueness:Does the establishment stand out in the context of the local area? Exceptional

Deliciousness:How delicious is the food? Exceptional

Warmth:How warm is the service and the hospitality in general? Very Good

Strength of recommendation:How enthusiastically and widely would you recommend the establishment? Exceptional

Now boasting a countryside setting to match the ‘wow’ factor of his cooking, Merlin Labron-Johnson’s second iteration of his wildly successful Bruton restaurant is already a proper destination. With four letting rooms, kitchen garden tours and a purpose-built tea house all in the pipeline, the ever-ambitious chef now affords guests the chance to immerse themselves in the wellspring of his farm-to-table philosophy: the British countryside and its abundant produce. Looming stark and white in the green Somserset countryside, the new premises occupy a former country pub that has been both stripped back and dramatically extended. The plain walls and bare flagstone floor of the reception lounge, where aperitifs and the first amuse-bouche are served, give no clue to the architectural drama beyond. An almost theatrical space, the main dining area opens directly into the kitchen, housed in a giant glass box looking out across fields at the back. Ask to be seated here so ...

Now boasting a countryside setting to match the ‘wow’ factor of his cooking, Merlin Labron-Johnson’s second iteration of his wildly successful Bruton restaurant is already a proper destination. With four letting rooms, kitchen garden tours and a purpose-built tea house all in the pipeline, the ever-ambitious chef now affords guests the chance to immerse themselves in the wellspring of his farm-to-table philosophy: the British countryside and its abundant produce.

Looming stark and white in the green Somserset countryside, the new premises occupy a former country pub that has been both stripped back and dramatically extended. The plain walls and bare flagstone floor of the reception lounge, where aperitifs and the first amuse-bouche are served, give no clue to the architectural drama beyond. An almost theatrical space, the main dining area opens directly into the kitchen, housed in a giant glass box looking out across fields at the back. Ask to be seated here so that you can watch Labron-Johnson and his team calmly weaving their magic.

No menus are offered until the meal is finished, but your trust will be repaid by a series of snacks, palate cleansers, pre-courses and specialities that wring extraordinary flavour from the humblest of ingredients – just consider a limpid tomato tea with droplets of grass-green fig-leaf oil, or a clutch of French beans on a pillow of almond cream, accompanying lamb served three ways, each detonating like a flavour bomb in your mouth. Later courses might include a quenelle of melon sorbet in a delightfully refreshing pool of cucumber and shiso water with spruce oil, or churros with meadowsweet ice cream, blackberry compôte and surprisingly pungent marigold leaves. Optional supplements are also available, say a cheese course of Baron Bigod melted over fruit bread, topped with black truffle and drizzled at the table with honey from the restaurant’s own hives.

Excellent service comes courtesy of a small army of cheerfully enthusiastic and highly capable young staff who are happy to chat about suppliers they have visited or what’s growing on the restaurant's two organic smallholdings. The wine list has been greatly expanded, though it still focuses on low-intervention bottles from small producers. Wine pairings remain a good-value choice and are carefully explained by the charming sommelier. We suggest allowing several hours to enjoy the full experience, rounding off with a lazy coffee and digestif.

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D Ellis

2 October 2024

Our first time dining at Osip was a fabulous experience. The new venue is simply furnished with an all-white decor. Most diners are seated at tables with a view into the kitchen, which is always fascinating. The menu is enigmatic, with just odd words or phrases describing the ingredients in the dishes. (At the end of the meal you are provided with a menu listing all the dishes). Each course showcased local ingredients where possible and included many interesting techniques. For us, the b...
Our first time dining at Osip was a fabulous experience. The new venue is simply furnished with an all-white decor. Most diners are seated at tables with a view into the kitchen, which is always fascinating. The menu is enigmatic, with just odd words or phrases describing the ingredients in the dishes. (At the end of the meal you are provided with a menu listing all the dishes). Each course showcased local ingredients where possible and included many interesting techniques. For us, the beetroot taco with mole was the stand out among many delicious courses. The Pithivier didn't quite have the standard pastry expected, the only slightly off-point dish in the evening. This was removed from our bill. The staff were friendly and very knowledgeable about the sometimes complicated techniques used. We cannot recommend it highly enough.
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VENUE DETAILS

25 Kingsettle Hill, Hardway
Bruton
Somerset
BA10 0LNGB

01749 987277

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