23 of Britain’s top spots for oysters
Published 06 August 2025

First find your restaurant. With very little signage and a hidden square to negotiate, diners are unlikely to eat here on a whim; a visit is booked in advance and eagerly anticipated. Billed as an ‘experimental’ venture from Alex Claridge and the team behind the Wilderness, the neutral toned space follows current fashion: no distinction between the fully open kitchen and the dining room; hard surfaces (wall, floor, kitchen counter) and 14 unyielding counter stools providing close-up views of the action – namely the preparation of what is primarily a multi-course, Japanese-inflected seafood tasting menu.

Service is warm and welcoming, but it pays to give careful attention to the announcement of each dish – no menu is offered until you leave. And it’s all effortlessly modern. A tartlet of mackerel is infused with a hint of heat from jalapeño, while slivers of wild, line-caught sea bass are enlivened with a whisper of smoke and seaweed, and the sweetly acidic flavours of yuzu vinegar – just the sort of bite-size morsels one wishes came in a serving of 10. Dishes are inventive but restrained, classical yet able to embrace broader influences: take a simple layering of brown-crab custard with finger lime, apple, white crabmeat and a few leaves of oxalis or a translucent roundel of lightly cured Cornish cod, wrapped in autumn truffle and served in a hot-smoked bone broth with yeast butter and egg yolk.

Each flavour blends tantalisingly with the one preceding it, so a plump, sweet scarlet prawn in a delicate, chilli oil-infused broth (made from the head) might be followed seamlessly by hamachi poached in brown butter with a dashi, sesame and ginger-based broth. Wines are chosen with the food firmly in mind, but given the lack of menu information, wine matching (or tutored advice from the sommelier) seems a sensible way to proceed.

A ‘very reliable’ Mayfair fixture since 1916, the self-titled ‘grand dame of Swallow Street’ is still shucking oysters with a vengeance under the stewardship of chef/patron Richard Corrigan. These days, regulars agree that its two great assets are the ground-floor Oyster Bar and the spacious gem of a terrace on Swallow Street itself (heated and covered for year-round bonhomie).

If you’re indoors, the best seats are indubitably at the marble-topped bar counter, where you can watch the chefs expertly flashing their thick-bladed oyster knives and doing the business on ‘natives’ and ‘rocks’ from places as far apart as Donegal, Oban and Jersey – although one fan reckons the Pembrokeshire specimens deserve a special mention. Otherwise, squeeze into one of the close-packed tables for a more formal and ‘extremely fresh’ piscine blowout – perhaps scallop ceviche dressed with jalapeño, mint and lime ahead of Dover sole meunière or pan-seared turbot with olive-oil mash and langoustine sauce.

Readers have praised the impeccable Cornish fish stew packed with myriad different species in a tomato and saffron broth, although you can also feast on classics such as fish and chips, fish pie and Bentley’s handsome shellfish platters. Pudding might be crème caramel with Armagnac-soaked prunes or a bitter chocolate mousse embellished with cherries, gold leaf and amaretto. The classy fish-friendly wine list is priced for Mayfair’s big spenders, although it does offer some excellent bargains by the glass.

When visiting Mull, those in the know wouldn't miss this low-key, no-frills dining room perched atop the old CalMac ferry office on the North Pier. There are superb views out to sea but, first, check out the compendious blackboard menu of 'fantastically fresh' seafood. Joint owners (and cousins) Jane Gill and chef Liz McGougan have their own boat (The Highlander) but also procure the pick of the catch from the local crews. That might mean crispy whole sea bream with citrus salsa to a classic fish stew in spiced Tuscan broth with bread and gremolata.

If you’re staying on Mull for a few nights, you can ring the changes – perhaps a few locally grown oysters, an ‘outstanding’ fish pie or a grand platter of grilled seafood doused with garlic butter. They don’t serve chips, although the place is known for its sourdough pizzas (including a lobster thermidor version). Glengorm steaks and a few desserts such as a rich chocolate pot or warm Belgian waffles complete the food offer. It's the Hebridean dream: the best place in town for 'intimacy with a wee buzz', and you can wear an old jumper. Staff are patient and jolly – and they don't treat visitors like tourists (most people on Mull seem to demonstrate this kindness).

To drink, expect anything from Aperol spritz and Mull whisky to fish-friendly white Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Sancerre and Verdejo. Opening times are seasonal and you must book for dinner, although they sometimes take walk-ins for lunch (check the website or social media) – and remember it’s cash only.

There’s a sense of understated chic about Tomás Gormley’s neighbourhood restaurant, a companion to Skua in Stockbridge. Moodily done out in black, punctuated by orbs of golden light, a miscellany of abstract canvases, a few unclothed tables and a cool soundtrack, it’s ‘just a wee gem’. What Cardinal lacks in size it makes up for with really engaged service and Gormley’s understated, purposeful cooking, which fully exploits contrasting flavours and textures while obsessively playing off the seasons.

To begin, a slug of roasted onion broth infused with Douglas fir and ‘very early’ wild garlic oil captured the theme, as did a single, stunning Carlingford oyster finished with beef tallow and tiny cubes of gherkin (for a light acidic tang). A composition of tender nuggets of smoked Belhaven lobster and pink fir potato was equally memorable, lushly blanketed under a creamy lobster bisque that offered just a hint of chilli heat.

That hint of heat came through again in the jammy blueberry and black peppercorn sauce served with a glorious Hopeton venison tataki, while there was more welcome acidity – from slivers of red onion – in a rich cheese dipping sauce accompanying a mini-loaf of fluffy challah-style milk bread. On point, too, was the homemade brown sauce served with a sausage roll that topped off our flavourful savoury finale of mangalitza pork ribeye with sauerkraut, Pommery mustard and fennel.

This is very good cooking – at £95 for the short tasting menu or £120 for the full works, it ought to be. But with wine pairings more or less de rigueur (there is a very limited by-the-glass choice), the ensuing bill catapults Cardinal into the ‘destination restaurant’ bracket, which is slightly at odds with its charming low-key vibe and neighbourhood setting. That said, it feels like the sort of place you would want to visit regularly if you lived in the area, especially as the three-course set lunch (Wednesday and Thursday only) has a more manageable price tag. 

‘The freshest of fish and the funkiest of food combined with the friendliest of folk,’ enthused a reporter – although the prospect of chilling under cover, with the bracing expanses of Chesil Beach stretching out in the distance, is also an irresistible draw for visitors to this cheery wooden shack. Oysters from the owners’ beds are always in demand, although Portland brown crabs are the undoubted stars of the show. Otherwise, the menu is driven by the sustainable haul from the West Country boats – perhaps whole plaice with anchovy butter and Somerset cider onions or hake fillet with cashew pesto and truffle-scented mushrooms. Kids have fish and chips, ‘simply floured, buttered and baked’. Expect crowds, whatever the weather. 

On the northern shores of Loch Leven, this big, brightly lit space with wipe-clean tables and café chairs is the go-to spot for shellfish in the region. It’s also a showcase for the family-owned Lochleven Shellfish Company next door – which dispatches crabs and lobsters, langoustines and oysters across Europe and Asia. There are meat dishes for those who must, but it’s the simply prepared seafood, presented without fuss, that brings customers here. A table of returning German visitors were working their way through the menu on our visit: a dozen Loch Creran oysters, followed by shellfish bisque with aïoli, then the mighty shellfish platter on ice made up of lobster, brown crab, Loch Linnhe scallops and oysters, which they declared the best shellfish in Europe. Expect too, lobster served cold with mayonnaise or hot with garlic butter, and whole brown crab – all to be eaten hands-on with crackers and shellfish pickers until the table is a pile of shells. A little less messy are grilled clams with garlic butter, diver-harvested scallops, razor clams poached in white wine, and buckets of steaming mussels in cider. To drink? Expect a standard list of predominantly white wines as well as local brews from River Leven Ales in Kinlochleven. There’s also a daytime coffee shop and a deli where fresh, frozen and cooked seafood is on sale.

Close to the seafront in the coastal village of Mumbles, this neighbourhood bistro feels like a valuable local resource. Informality reigns inside, with café-style furnishings, parquet floors and bold Pop Art prints hung on exposed brickwork. Despite a change of ownership, the cooking has stayed true to its original remit, putting its faith in supplies of seasonally attuned Welsh produce (Pembrokeshire oysters, Swansea smoked salmon, mangalitza pork from Penlan Heritage Breeds, and so on).

The kitchen's take on beef tartare is a hit, with a soy-cured egg yolk, beef fat cream and grilled sourdough adding tremendous depth to the succulent meat. Seafood alternatives might range from scallops dressed in generous quantities of pesto to the aforementioned oysters, served tempura-style with apricot ketchup. Among the main courses, sea bass with fennel rémoulade and asparagus delivered freshness and flavour, while the smokily barbecued breast component of a duck dish made up for a thumping misfire in the accompanying leg, which was poorly battered, chicken-shop style, and slicked with oil from the deep-frying. 

A summery finale came in the form of Eton mess in a glass, laden with strawberries, meringue and shortbread but lacking the promised scent of basil, or there could be orange posset with poppyseed sablé. A few wines by the glass lead a conservative list.

The beaches of Saunton Sands, Croyde and Woolacombe make up what has become a surfers’ paradise on this stretch of the north Devon coast, and committed surfers are here year-round. However, the winding lanes and thatched villages swell with holidaymakers in summer, often looking for something beyond pub grub – which the young team at New Coast Kitchen are more than happy to provide. The outside seating area is popular at lunch when a small-plates menu is offered, while the dark walls of this smart little restaurant abound with hanging greenery, big mirrors, spotlights and low-hanging industrial lamps. You’re at the seaside, so kick off with some Porthilly oysters, perhaps served with a delicate apple pickle and a dash of chilli oil or hot in tempura batter with a wasabi tartare sauce. There’s more seafood on the menu, including a superb scallop ceviche in its shell with a mild roquito pepper mayonnaise, sea vegetables and a refreshing tomato granita (a clever addition). Hake appears regularly (served with a mussel mousse and miso butter sauce when we visited), while wild sea bass is a treat whenever it's landed – perhaps partnered by Fowey scallops, herring roe and citrus-marinated fennel. In the mood for meat? Indulge in generously sliced saddle of lamb, served pink with a tender roast short rib alongside accompaniments of courgette and basil purée and baby turnip. At dessert, you might opt for the prettily presented vanilla cheesecake with lovely honey and lavender ice cream or chocolate ganache with poached cherries. An interesting, fairly priced wine list includes several organic and less familiar bottles including a Kardos Dry Furmint (from Hungary) and a Yamanashi Koshu sur lie (from Japan); there's also a selection of elegant cocktails.

A former Grade II-listed ‘bay shelter’ overlooking the sandy beach at Seaburn is an unlikely setting for a charming neighbourhood eatery, but readers love everything about North – from ‘the best views’ to 'the local supplies, local produce and brilliant staff’. By day, the kitchen deals in brunch crowd-pleasers ranging from Dutch pancakes to black pudding rösti, while evening brings a line-up of globally inspired small plates with plenty of seafood on show. Expect anything from crispy duck leg terrine with smashed cucumber to mackerel with horseradish mousse or even breaded cod nuggets. And if you really want to splash out, the £70 sharing platter for two is a fish-lover’s delight. To round things off, something lusciously sweet such as dark chocolate semifreddo should suffice. A traditional roast is served every Sunday during the winter months, though this gives way to Sunday brunch during the spring and summer. Cocktails and well-priced wines dominate the drinks list.

The Friskney-Bryers have created ‘a Fowey institution’ in their converted boatshed restaurant overlooking the comings and goings of small craft out on the creek. The couple are fully committed to seasonality and sustainability, and their staff are also impressively clued-up when it comes to all things local. An infectiously informal vibe prevails in the main dining room with its long communal table, festoon lights, open kitchen and simple blackboard menu. Each week, the kitchen has a fish soup on the go, made from trimmings that can’t be used elsewhere; otherwise, the roll call of fabulous seafood specialities, might take in anything from cured pollack with fermented chilli dressing or confit sea bass with Cornish ‘earlies’, mayo and lovage to salt fish gratin. Away from the sea, you might also find slow-cooked lamb bolognese or nettle gnudi with mushrooms, and it's hard to resist the chocolate mousse with caramel and salt. To drink, a handful of natural wines by the glass do the trick – or you might fancy some grape juice from the Tamar Valley.

Shoehorned in between the coastal road and the promenade above the strand at beautiful St Brelade's Bay, this chic beachside venue makes the most of its location. There are spaces indoors and out, with tables on the terrace strip particularly covetable. A cool, relaxed feel pervades the place, in large measure attributable to the brigade of friendly, on-the-ball staff.

Naturally, there are Jersey rock oysters, regardless of whether there is an R in the month or not (there were battalions of them in late June), and a lot of good fish too. A starter of grilled scallops is served in the shell with parsley and garlic sauce, Jersey cream and samphire, while mains could range from the sustainably sourced ‘catch of the day’ to a roast cod and king prawn curry.

Meat and veggie dishes also figure prominently, from duck confit, pork tomahawk steaks and roast sirloin of beef for Sunday lunch to Thai-style cauliflower with green mango. Dessert could be anything from piña colada rice pudding with mango and basil sorbet to hot chocolate and salted caramel fondant. Cocktails, including non-alcoholic variants, are a strong suit, while wines offer decent drinking at fair prices.

An amble through Epping Forest wouldn’t be complete without a refuelling stop-off at this totally unexpected – but immensely popular – seafood shack next door to the Kings Oak (not far from the Visitor Centre). Join the inevitable queues, place your order, bag a seat (inside or out) and wait for your name to be called. Hot and cold seafood ‘tapas’ platters go down a storm, as do oysters on ice and the now-legendary curried mango prawns. We also adore the freshly made bacon and scallop rolls. Get your drinks from the pub and throw your takeaway plates in the bin when you’ve finished.

Given the name, it’s not surprising that a dedicated oyster bar takes centre stage at this personally run seafood restaurant – the product of innumerable pop-ups, festivals and private party gigs. Oystermen's breezy interior was extended a while back, and the premises has also gained some additional outdoor space (a hangover from the pandemic). All-day opening is a boon for Covent Garden’s theatre crowd, who drop by before or after the show for ‘perfect’ oysters, squid salad with anchovy toast (‘beautifully done’), ‘excellent’ skate and more besides. The menu follows the market and rolls along with the seasons, so expect anything from a gratin of Isle of Man ‘queenie’ scallops with chives and lemon or cured sea trout with apple and ponzu dressing to whole ‘undressed’ Dorset crabs, native lobsters slathered in garlic butter with chips or pan-fried stone bass with parsnip purée, wild mushroom sauce and crispy bacon. Working in a 'teeny-tiny' kitchen, the chef and his team also throw in the occasional exotic curve ball such as hake with red curry sauce, baby sweetcorn and crispy kale. For afters, there are ‘delicious concoctions’ including vanilla panna cotta with blackberries and crumble or strawberry tartlet with vanilla custard and basil. Well-chosen, fish-friendly wines are knowledgeably served by efficient clued-up staff. ‘Overall, a pleasure,’ concluded one fan.

During the summer season, you can now hire a deckchair from Riley’s and eat their food on the beach (they will also sell you a blanket to use and take home if the weather’s breezy). The location – a glass-fronted shipping container facing the North Sea – is spot-on for a menu inspired by the owners’ stints as street-food vendors. Seasonal seafood is the deal, and the day's dishes (and service times) often depend on the catch. Items are rubbed off the blackboard as they sell out, although Riley’s classic wood-fired sourdough wraps (served in their famous ‘floppy’ cardboard boxes) are a fixture – perhaps BBQ Craster kippers, bavette steak or ‘hot plate’ hake with caper butter. Otherwise, the line-up might run from chilli fish empanadas via salt cod with grilled cos lettuce, smoked egg and preserved lemon to pan-roasted headliners such as turbot ‘chop’, lemon sole or brill (served with panzanella salad). Round off with one of Riley’s special soft-serves (wood-fired pineapple or peaches and cream, say). A dozen wines are served in plastic tumblers, there are plenty of ales from regional breweries and the venue also does a good line in homemade beverages (try the hot butter rum).

On the (mostly) picture-postcard riverfront by the town's 19th-century 'Bouncy Bridge', this popular Inverness fish restaurant, run by Cornish chef Allan 'Alfie' Little, is a popular local fixture – as much for its 'oyster happy hour' as its lengthy menu of Scottish seafood. Inside, heavy green-striped velvet drapes open to reveal a small L-shaped dining room with blowsy salmon-pink walls and an olive-green ceiling, plus giant circular cream lampshades lending a contemporary vibe; the whole place buzzes, with Alfie (in chef's whites) bouncing between the tiny open kitchen and the packed tables. There's a full oyster menu featuring bivalves grown and harvested by Patrick and Lucy Blow off Cape Wrath, while a separate Shetland mussel menu offers the choice of marinière, Venetian or Islay-style (with cream and a splash of whisky). From the main repertoire, a sizzling starter of Calvados-spiked Orkney crab thermidor topped with crispy panko and apple was rich and moreish, though the pecorino cheese overpowered the subtler crustacean. Mains might bring delicate, creamy Peterhead plaice topped with prawns in coriander and parsley butter with summer vegetable confit and crispy potato gnocchi or a punchier, more powerful plate of Scottish hake fillet and octopus tentacle, teetering atop a mound of chorizo, baby potatoes and caperberries tossed in a rich Rioja and tomato sauce. The dessert menu doesn't get beyond cheesecake, panna cotta and 'my better half's pavlova', but if you're a fan of old-school that probably won't matter. Seafood pairings and provenance are key factors on the drinks list, from a Shetland Reel G&T infused with foraged seaweed, pink grapefruit and mint to the flinty, fresh stone fruit of a Spanish Albariño.

The sea views might be distant, but Rocky Bottoms has made quite a splash on this stretch of the coast since opening in 2015. It is owned by a local fishing family, so the crabs and lobsters are of unimpeachable freshness, yet almost as diverting is the modern vibe of the place. The much-enlarged converted brick kiln has black-tiled flooring and bare-brick or dark-blue walls enlivened by local artworks. Staff are young and eager (if occasionally green) and cool soul provides the soundtrack. Outside, there’s a bar with decking, picnic-bench seating on an extensive lawn and a shop selling seafood. The cooking has a contemporary feel too, with expertly presented dishes arriving, perhaps, with a tongue-in-cheek retro garnish of cress. Seafood and genuinely local ingredients dominate the concise menu. Brancaster oysters make a popular starter, as do bowlfuls of salt-and-pepper crispy-fried cockles from Wells-next-the-Sea – crisped-up yet nicely chewy and replete with (unadvertised) chilli-heat. Although prices can be something of an eye-opener, compared to other local daytime venues, there’s no doubting the culinary flair manifest in the likes of, say, crab linguine: the pasta cooked to perfection, the dish replete with the flavour of fresh brown crabmeat. A tasty glass of Grüner Veltliner (from a drinks list that also includes Norfolk wines and beers) makes a happy pairing. To finish, lemon posset is a luxurious treat (creamy and tangy), its accompanying hard disc of shortbread less so. Overall, though, during the summer season, it's no surprise that Rocky’s is on a roll.

Just across the water from big-money Sandbanks, this is quite a location – with unbeatable panoramic views of Poole Harbour and Brownsea Island to boot. By contrast, Shell Bay itself looks a bit like a seafood shack that has seen better days – but don’t let the picket-style fences, canvas awnings, technicolour pub tables and bright metal garden chairs put you off. A troupe of smiley, buzzy, dressed-down staff keep things moving along at a pace, and the food passes muster – even if the bill is several notches up from your average high-speed seaside café (mind you, those fabulous vistas are almost worth the price of admission). Not surprisingly, seafood figures prominently on the wide-ranging menu, from Poole Bay oysters with shallot vinegar or clean-cut cured salmon with fennel and apple salad to whole local crab and various offerings ‘from the wood oven’ – perhaps sea bass, Galician-style octopus or skate wing (perked up by a side order of sweet, nutty roasted Jerusalem artichokes with truffle and Parmesan). Otherwise, the kitchen goes walkabout for the likes of red lentil kofta with quinoa tabbouleh or a duo of lamb with Puy lentils, cavolo nero, pomegranate jus and smoked almond brittle. To finish, a light, creamy coffee crème brûlée was the top pick from a mixed bag of international desserts at inspection. The wine list is designed for mass-market appeal, with prices from £24.50. Note that Shell Bay is closed for most of the winter months, so check before travelling.  

In the past, it has faced floods, fire and the pandemic, but this photogenic gem on Southwold Harbour stands strong and seems to get better with every challenge – without losing any of its no-frills charm. A business that started in the early 2000s selling the family’s daily catch from a small shed, has matured into a characterful and wildly popular restaurant, bar, takeaway and fishmonger with plenty of canopied outdoor space, and fishing ephemera piled up to good effect. 

Come here for laden platters of Cromer crab or lobster with cockles, mussels and whelks (you can build your own combo), or chargrilled crevettes doused in lemon, garlic and ginger butter with a pot of chips and salad. Fillets of sea bass are cooked tenderly, and there’s enthusiastic praise for the fishcakes packed with cod, smoked haddock and prawns. Dessert could be as simple as a Mr Whippy with a flake or as hunger-busting as an ice-cream sundae with doughnuts, Maltesers and hot chocolate sauce. 

To drink? You’re a hop and a skip from Adnams Brewery, so maybe go for their Ghost Ship pale ale or Southwold Bitter. Booking is advisable for prime-time summer tables, and don’t miss their equally characterful sister-business, the Little Fish & Chip Shop, in Southwold itself.

Open daily from the beginning of April to the end of October, this totally unpretentious catering trailer is a godsend for holidaymakers and locals alike. Be prepared for queues, and for outside picnic seating if you want to eat on site – although the quality of the locally caught, sustainable seafood is second to none. Hand-dived scallops with herb butter, creel-caught langoustines with hot garlic and thyme butter, hot-smoked trout from the Ullapool Smokehouse, and a tempura-battered haddock wrap that’s fast achieving cult status are typical examples from a daily changing menu that's in tune with the catch from the inshore boats.

Pubs come in many guises, from gritty boozers to smart dining rooms, but some straddle the roles of watering hole and restaurant with ease. Something about the White Hart – a strikingly renovated hostelry with rooms directly opposite West Mersea’s church – hits the bull’s eye. Its good looks certainly make it stand out from the crowd, with reporters much taken by the seaside colours and mid-century vibes of the bar/dining room, as well as the trump-card terrace.

This is the latest in Piers Baker’s tight-knit group (alongside the Sun at Dedham and Church Street Tavern in Colchester), and it continues the theme of uncomplicated modern cooking and kind pricing. Oysters from the inter-tidal waters of the Blackwater Estuary (a couple of minutes' stroll from the pub) open the broadly appealing menu, which takes in everything from mussels with fries to dry-aged, grass-fed rump or ribeye steaks.

Highlights of our visit were many and varied, ranging from a delicious tangle of local baby beetroot and gooseberries with Old Winchester cheese custard to tender venison haunch with runner beans, peas, grilled baby gem and girolles. Fish dishes also shine brightly – perhaps perfectly grilled mackerel fillets with cucumber and crème fraîche or crisp-skinned day-boat sea bass fillet with sweetcorn sauce, locally grown baby fennel and caponata.

Desserts are a must, especially if Paris-Brest with raspberry and almond is on offer, while the rich Tosier chocolate torte flavoured with lime and served with salted-caramel ice cream and fresh cherries has the makings of a signature dish. There's praise, too, for the Sunday roasts, the friendliness of the staff, the array of cocktails and the well-assembled wine list – although wines have always been a big plus with this small, independent group.

It could be just another whitewashed roadside inn, briefly glimpsed along the A149 as you drive past, but the White Horse is something special. Set on the marshes, it provides one of the best views along the coast and manages an impressive balancing act between pub and restaurant. A rustic public bar caters for drinkers who can spill out onto the front courtyard when the sun shines, while the light-filled conservatory dining room and terrace maximise the views – big skies, tidal creeks, little boats.

Here, chef Fran Hartshorne presents a strong 'when in Norfolk' case for choosing the exceptional mussels, half a dozen oysters served classically or tempura, dressed Cromer crab or delicious smoked salmon from the tiny Staithe Smokehouse on the premises. Elsewhere, pan-seared sea trout with leeks, local cockles, clams and brown shrimps, smoked cream and potato is a straightforward pleasure, as is marsh-grazed sirloin with Café de Paris butter and skin-on fries – one of the few meat options. For afters, the signature lemon tart with blueberries, Dann's Farm yoghurt sorbet and poppyseed crumb beckons.

If you want something more casual, head down to Marshside, the pub’s seasonal, alfresco hangout for a cocktail, glass of wine or beer plus a few small sharing plates – a robata-grilled scallop, devilled mussel crumpet or Cheddar doughnuts, say. You might, however, like to keep large plates of grilled lobster and chips or crayfish poutine to yourself. In both dining areas, the well-targeted, international wine list offers plenty by the glass.

The candyfloss-pink frontage and walls crowded with maritime pictures announce one of Whitstable's most cherishable assets, a seafood haven since the mid-Victorian era, still serving sparkling-fresh fish and shellfish from the local boats to a discerning clientele. A roaring takeaway trade might send you off with a prawn and crab tartlet to treasure. Otherwise, the venue offers everything from daytime sustenance to a eight-course tasting menu on Friday and Saturday evenings. Mark Stubbs embraces a dazzling range of culinary styles, turning his hand to anything from chargrilled scallops with buttered Kentish asparagus, polonaise crumble and crab mimosa to sticky Korean prawns with kachumber salad and gochujang sauce. And that's just for starters. The choice of mains also covers a lot of ground: roast sea bass with spring-green colcannon, fermented wild garlic stalks and a tartare sauce flecked with coastal herbs; pistachio- and citrus-crusted halibut with scallop and horseradish velouté; crispy-fried buttermilk monkfish with red cabbage coleslaw, griddled sweetcorn kerrnels and BBQ sauce. The lightest option for dessert could be a raspberry soufflé with raspberry-ripple ice cream. Unlicensed – so nip into the 'Offy' across the road for a bottle of wine or one of the specially selected craft beers.

A caravan park on a Welsh holiday island is not the first place you’d think of to find a meal that could hold its own alongside many a Soho or Shoreditch joint. Formerly the Guide-listed Marram Grass, the venue has gone through several iterations, but if they can sustain the quality we experienced on our visit, many more bucket ’n' spaders should be queuing up for dishes such as whole wild sea bass in shellfish sauce or hand-dived scallops, yoghurt, poached egg in a burnt butter sauce – as well as dayttime brunch treats.

Given the location, fish predominates, but you’ll also find choices on the short main menu such as dry-aged pork loin and apple in a pork butter sauce. Pen Lyn spider crab, caught just a few miles away, was as outstanding a version as ever you’re likely to experience: served in the shell, the poached meat dressed with capers and dill and moistened at the table with crab bisque. It came with fresh-from-the-soil Anglesey new potatoes and a courgette, fennel and pine-nut salad.

Menu structure is still a work in progress: opening times are varied (check the website) and there is currently no separate starter or dessert options, though the kitchen obligingly piped salted caramel cream along a well-filled almond croissant (leftover from that morning’s batch of homemade pastries) to round off our meal. To drink, beers, ciders and wines have a local accent wherever possible. Also, look out for visiting guest chefs and culinary events. In contrast to the rather rickety surrounds (think an extended, florally bedecked garden shed amidst farm buildings), Ellis Barrie’s cooking is instinctively refined, skilled and confident enough to keep it simple – not because he doesn’t know how to elaborate, but because he clearly does.