At just 93 miles long, the A303 is the backbone connecting the south east to the west. It wiggles through the countryside from Hampshire, Wiltshire, Somerset and Dorset before ending east Devon, where the A30 continues into Cornwall. Full of short dual carriageway sections that slim down to winding single roads, getting temporarily stuck behind a tractor or a caravan is to be expected. As are the queues around the UNESCO Stonehenge site, as drivers creep along for a glimpse – though no-one admits it.
So it's worth knowing where the best stops are, both on the side of the A303, and just off it too, including cafes, restaurants, food experiences and rooms for the night to avoid uninspiring beige food at petrol stations.
After making it past Stonehenge going west, a good stop is near the village of Chicklade in Wiltshire. Just a few minutes off the A303 is Hindon, home to the Grosvenor Arms. It's owned by the ever-expanding Chickpea group who specialise in revamping countryside pubs and serving local ales. Expect dialled up pub classics like rarebit croquettes, hefty burgers or mains like guinea fowl or whole plaice.
For a pub alternative, book lunch (Wednesday-Sunday) at the Green Michelin-starred Pythhouse Kitchen Garden. Set inside an 18th century walled garden and former potting shed, it's retained a rustic charm and serves dishes like in-house smoked chalkstream trout, chargrilled flatbreads with whipped fava beans and garden XO sauce – it's not one to rush in and out of.
Completing this pocket's little triangle is the ivy-clad Beckford Arms, another traditional inn given a glow up. The menu is elevated pub fare, such as Westcombe cheddar ploughmans and a half pint of prawns, with much of it sourced from the kitchen garden and surrounding farms like chicken from Devon's Creedy Carver farm and fish from Brixham.
Though one of the most popular stops is half an hour further west, the little buzzy market town of Bruton. Stay at Number 1 Bruton and dine at Briar next door, or a few doors down at The Old Pharmacy. Or book a room just along the high street at At The Chapel, a bakery, restaurant and rooms in a converted chapel. If you're not staying, head to the bakery early to bag a loaf and pastries as they will sell out. Pick up goodies for a picnic or gifts for your host from the Godminster cheese shop, and Farm Shop at Durslade Farm, such as a bottle of Maid of Bruton English sparkling wine or the honeycomb chocolate. It's owned by the same people who put Bruton on the map when they opened Hauser & Wirth gallery and gardens, a great spot to stretch the legs. Just outside the town is the new incarnation of Osip restaurant (also with rooms) run by Merlin Labron-Johnson who won a Michelin star for his restaurant when it was still next to Number 1 Bruton.
Just over 10-minute drive from the A303 at Wincanton (or 10-minutes from Bruton) is the latest spin-off from The Newt Hotel, the Creamery at Castle Carey train station. It's open to everyone, offering a slice of The Newt without booking a room or having membership. The sitdown restaurant has dishes like smoked mackerel pate, lamb merguez sausages, smash burgers plus a kids menu, with produce coming from The Newt's market garden and butchery. For those shorter on time, takeaway deli sandwiches, salad pots, cakes and pastries like cruffins and chunky sausage rolls will more than suffice. Plus you can stock up on its own Newt cyder and cheese as it's a working creamery again.
Though perhaps the jewel in the A303 crown is Teals farm shop and café in South Cadbury, which after opening in 2020 reinvented what a road-side service stop could be. It connects farmers and producers to customers, with a market of fresh produce, and the likes of local honey, quality olive oil and top tier crisps and snacks. It also has a deli, butchery, bottle shop, does take away coffee, sandwiches and pastry goods, plus homewares, children's toys and other worthy gifts – great if you've forgotten something. You can sit in at the casual restaurant, then walk off lunch with the dog on the dedicated trail from the carpark. Accessible from both north and south bound, it's a worthy stop whichever way you're going, though its only downfall is that it's just open between 8am and 6pm, so plan wisely.
Just round the corner from Teals is Chapel Cross tearoom, serving hot drinks and cake on outside benches. It's also home to a small herd of Golden Guernsey goats, so between April and October pick up some of its award-winning goats cheese. Then make another pitstop just a mile away at King Brain organic cider farm. As you enter the now five-generation family farm's courtyard, a sign says "toot your horn for cider". Following suit, one of the owners diligently appears offering tastings of the six or so kegs of their homemade cider, that ranges across dry, sweet, still, sparkling and blends. It's also sold in Teals, but it's much more fun to buy it at source, especially as you can buy it in bottles or 2.5L or 5L flaggans (or fill up your own). Bring them back to refill, and you'll get a small discount. You can even pick up some farm eggs, too.
Over the other side of the A303, an excellent lunch or dinner spot to book ahead of time is Horrell & Horrell who create dinner parties on a long table in the prettiest converted cow barn at the end of their garden. Everything's cooked over fire and the set menu is hyper local, that's even sourced from their own garden.
If you opt for dinner at Horrel & Horrell and need somewhere to stay, just 20-minutes further south in the honey-coloured village of South Petherton is the restaurant with eight rooms, Holm. Owner Nicholas Balfe's menu is based on what the producers on his doorstep have available, and the set lunch gives excellent value at £35 for two courses, or £40 for three. Ordering the signature Westcombe cheddar fries (that haven't left the menu since opening), is a must, they are also on the chef's menu. If it's available, book room Elm, which has a bath in the room too, and you'll enjoy a belter of a breakfast that'll more than carry you through to lunchtime.
Back on the road, without requiring any diversion the Otter Valley Field Kitchen is right on the A303 in Honiton, Devon. Along with pizzas from the pizza oven, generously-filled sandwiches and salads in the cafe, there will often be queues forming for the excellent homemade gelato ice-creams with all the usual flavours plus exciting additions such as lemon and lime meringue or seabuckthorn.
The last stop you can't miss is Dart's Farm in Topsham, which started off as a fruit stall and over decades has morphed into a huge one-stop shop complex. If it's your inaugural visit, work in plenty of time as there's a lot to see, including an extensive farm shop that does hampers (great for gifts), a chocolatier, a cidery, a vineyard, a butchery, The Farm Table restaurant and other eateries. There's even a spa, which may sound at odds with the setup, but can be a welcome tonic if it's been one of those particularly testing journeys – especially if there's still a long way to go.
– Emma Henderson
