The Beckford Arms

Standing at a country crossroads on the edge of the Fonthill Estate, this handsome, ivy-clad 18th-century inn (part of the Beckford group, a collection of four independent pubs in the region), is surprisingly handy for the A303. It’s a hugely enjoyable place, very much an all-rounder, with a dog-friendly bar at its heart supported by various dining rooms, all suitably gentrified with cosy country-luxe decor, open fires, evening candles and auction room finds. When the sun shines, a covered terrace opens onto an acre of mature gardens.

The menu hits that ‘something for everyone’ note spot-on, with a line-up ranging from evergreens along the lines of fish and chips, sirloin steak (on the bone) with classic sauces, and an above-the-norm Sunday roast to seasonal ideas such as exemplary chalk stream trout tartare layered with yogurt and plum, or a combo of green and yellow courgettes, cut into ribbons and served in a pleasing jumble with goat's curd and pickled chilli dressing. To follow, our monkfish tail was perfectly cooked on the bone and teamed (deliciously) with leeks and curry butter, while a robust dish of flavourful pork chop with BBQ courgettes and preserved Isle of Wight tomatoes struck a more rustic note.

Desserts are mostly reworked classics – the star turn for us was a chocolate mousse with Wye Valley cherries and brandy. Fast, friendly service is delivered by a young team, while knowledgeable dabbling around the globe satisfies most palates and budgets on a wine list that offers good choice under £40.