Môr
Swansea - Modern European - Restaurant - £££
Valuable local resource for celebrations
Close to the seafront in the coastal village of Mumbles, this neighbourhood bistro feels like a valuable local resource. Informality reigns inside, with café-style furnishings, parquet floors and bold Pop Art prints hung on exposed brickwork. Despite a change of ownership, the cooking has stayed true to its original remit, putting its faith in supplies of seasonally attuned Welsh produce (Pembrokeshire oysters, Swansea smoked salmon, mangalitza pork from Penlan Heritage Breeds, and so on). The kitchen's take on beef tartare is a hit, with a soy-cured egg yolk, beef fat cream and grilled sourdough adding tremendous depth to the succulent meat. Seafood alternatives might range from scallops dressed in generous quantities of pesto to the aforementioned oysters, served tempura-style with apricot ketchup. Among the main courses, sea bass with fennel rémoulade and asparagus delivered freshness and flavour, while the smokily barbecued breast component of a duck dish made up for...
Close to the seafront in the coastal village of Mumbles, this neighbourhood bistro feels like a valuable local resource. Informality reigns inside, with café-style furnishings, parquet floors and bold Pop Art prints hung on exposed brickwork. Despite a change of ownership, the cooking has stayed true to its original remit, putting its faith in supplies of seasonally attuned Welsh produce (Pembrokeshire oysters, Swansea smoked salmon, mangalitza pork from Penlan Heritage Breeds, and so on).
The kitchen's take on beef tartare is a hit, with a soy-cured egg yolk, beef fat cream and grilled sourdough adding tremendous depth to the succulent meat. Seafood alternatives might range from scallops dressed in generous quantities of pesto to the aforementioned oysters, served tempura-style with apricot ketchup. Among the main courses, sea bass with fennel rémoulade and asparagus delivered freshness and flavour, while the smokily barbecued breast component of a duck dish made up for a thumping misfire in the accompanying leg, which was poorly battered, chicken-shop style, and slicked with oil from the deep-frying.
A summery finale came in the form of Eton mess in a glass, laden with strawberries, meringue and shortbread but lacking the promised scent of basil, or there could be orange posset with poppyseed sablé. A few wines by the glass lead a conservative list.
VENUE DETAILS
620 Mumbles Road, The Mumbles
Swansea
SA3 4EA
07932 385217
OTHER INFORMATION
Separate bar, Dog friendly, Credit card required