It has the obvious feel of a neighbourhood bistro with a cheerful ambience, a relaxed demeanour and a menu so classic you could be in Paris. And if you’re familiar with The Folkestone Wine Company, that’s really all you need to know about Dave Hart and Polly Pleasence’s latest restaurant, which opened in Canterbury at the beginning of September.
But there’s more, of course. To gain a better work/life balance, the couple have swapped shuttling back and forth from Canterbury to Folkestone for a short stroll to one of the timber-framed premises that line the splendid Tudor gatehouse of the St John’s Hospital alms houses (thought to be among the oldest in England).
Franc is a restaurant of two halves. Step right into the casual wine bar, a compact, animated L-shaped room with views into the kitchen at the back end and a blackboard menu that lists such good things as oysters, eggs mayonnaise and moules marinière, alongside a daily special – roast lamb with flageolet beans and garlic on my visit. I headed upstairs, however, to the restaurant proper, a square-shaped, street-facing room bright with contemporary canvases, its small size and setting bringing The French House in Soho to mind, especially that sense of being cosily shoehorned in among your fellow diners. This is open for lunch only (Thursday-Sunday), serving a weekly changing prix-fixe menu.
Hart has an undeniably populist instinct for the kinds of food and flavours we all love in a style that is both indulgent and restrained. My whole meal was a triumph of sophistication and comfort. From the beautifully cooked turbot fillet with chicory and lobster bisque (as luxurious as those words promise), via the utterly delicious coq au vin served atop a swirl of potato purée, the richness balanced by a beautifully dressed green salad, to the Basque gateau and plum compote finale, nothing fell short.
And let’s not forget that this is a wine bar, too, so you’ll be pleased to know that due care and attention has gone into the wine list – predominantly French, with a kindly-priced selection by the glass.
While there’s the sense of a new operation finding its feet, from our first look there’s no doubt this is a restaurant delivering on all fronts: the judgment is sound, the execution virtually flawless. For years chain-ridden Canterbury has been woefully outshone by the bourgeoning dining scenes of nearby coastal towns – the splendidly independent and Very Good-rated Goods Shed a lone beacon. It’s good to report that Franc of Canterbury is adding another well-crafted alternative to the uniform fast food found elsewhere. We’ll be back soon with a full review.
WHERE 49 Northgate, Canterbury, CT1 1BE
FOLLOW @francofcanterbury
BOOK franc-canterbury.com
The Good Food Guide allows three to six months before anonymously inspecting a new restaurant. Look out for a full review coming soon.
