Local gems in London
Published 12 November 2024

A much-hyped brunch spot in an unremarkable location not far from Rectory Road station, Bake Street’s expanded Americana-infused menu runs at weekends only; during the week, there’s a shorter selection of pastries, cookies and toasties to go with excellent coffee. The tiny kitchen does well to keep on top of such an original scratch line-up, doling out everything from messy birria tacos with twice-cooked lamb and consommé to must-order mandarin ice cream sandwiches. Unlicensed; outside seating only (come prepared). 

A useful address on Kingly Street, this tiny corridor of a wine bar – high stools, tapas-style tables, a scattering of outside seating – is the place to come for a glass of wine and tasty, snacky food ranging from plates of Neal's Yard cheese and Cobble Lane coppa to an excellent beef sando (with a vibrant purée of dill and pickled cucumber). An interesting and unusual list of low-intervention wines from European producers, plus a couple of cocktails, keep this relaxed spot nicely buzzing.

Nestled next door to its elder sibling, the 10 Cases, this all-day venue has all the trappings of a petit grand café: marble-topped tables, framed monochrome photos, half-mast curtains, tightly packed but comfortable for all that. Freshly baked goods are sold from a hatchway on the street, while croques and fully loaded sandwiches form the backbone of the eat-in menu – we enjoyed a chilli-laced crab salad in marie-rose dressing on hacked-up chunks of baby gem. Otherwise, expect anything from gravadlax with rye crisps to beef tagliata, ahead of desserts including a textbook baked Alaska. The coffee is excellent and there's a tiny wine list too.

Under the arches in Haggerston, Josh Katz's team just keeps on grilling – and the effect is as lively and compelling as ever. Meze including spiced chicken wings with garlic sauce are as smoke-licked as larger plates such as wood-roasted pil-pil prawns or smoked lamb neck mechoui, while the things they can do with a vegetable (check out their cauliflower shawarma) are pleasing indeed. There are now two siblings, Carmel in Queen's Park and Shawarma Bar in Exmouth Market.

*Crisp Pizza is relocating to The Marlborough in Mayfair in Autumn 2025.*

Holed up within the Chancellors pub on Crisp Road (just behind Sam’s Riverside), this hugely popular pop-up stands out from the crowd because its pizzas are baked comparatively ‘low and slow’ in electric bread ovens. The texture of the crusts is everything (crisp outside but chewy within), while the toppings are mostly traditional favourites – the artisan pepperoni version with San Marzano tomatoes, fior di latte and hot honey was our pick of the bunch. Wines from the pub’s updated list go down well, and outdoor seating is a bonus in fine weather. Be prepared for long (but totally justified) queues.

‘Cheap, delicious and authentic,’ is one snappy verdict on this constantly rammed, no-bookings Chinese. Queues come with the territory, long waits are inevitable and the whole experience can seem a tad perfunctory, but there’s no disputing the sheer quality of the food. Regulars praise everything from the Shanghai dumplings in soup (‘great depth of flavour’) to the BBQ roast duck, ‘beautifully cooked’ salt-and-pepper squid and a host of peasant-style regional specialities. Also try the 'dazzling' prawn wontons with house-made salad cream (a throwback to old Hong Kong). To drink? Bubble tea, perhaps. Helpings are more than generous, so expect to be well-fed.

Arguably the best croissants in London (if not the UK) are on offer at Eric’s – a local bakery run by ex-Flor supremo Helen Evans. Inside, it has a level of refinement that most of its rivals simply cannot match: carefully chosen interiors and an intentionally gentler style of service create what one visitor called 'an elevated experience'. Those croissants get their unmatched depth of flavour from a mixture of meticulously sourced wholemeal and emmer flour, but everything excels here: savouries include a rich, tangy and devilishly moreish aubergine and fermented fava bean swirl, while sweet inducements range from exemplary pain an chocolat to cinnamon buns. Eric's only serves filter coffee, but that’s just fine by us.

Located on a residential side street in Stoke Newington, this is the most perfect contemporary brunch spot in the Aussie London tradition. It's appealing inside and out with simple, light wood interiors, a counter stocked with expertly baked treats and a busy back garden filled with mismatched tables. Excellent coffee comes from Hasbean while the ever-evolving menu is far more creative than most, featuring top-notch suppliers such as Hodmedods and Flourish Produce. Think braised lamb shoulder with crushed chickpeas, spigarello and pickled cucumber salsa verde or something sweet such as French toast with Mairac apple, toasted hay cream and cobnut buckwheat crunch.

Mayfair is expensive, so it’s good to have an affordable go-to when you need a break from designer stores and swanky galleries. This rus in urbe outpost of Artfarm’s Durslade Farm Shop in Bruton is just the place, although its basement wine bar looks like a page from World of Interiors, with real art on the walls, French antiques and concrete floors. The offering is straightforward but high quality, mainly sharing plates of cheese and artisan charcuterie, supplemented by toasties and rustic dishes ranging from minestrone to pot au feu. The 200-bin wine list is where things get more interesting, opening with by-the-glass options such as Le Grappin's skin-contact Aligoté and Tignanello. 

Hidden down a cobbled mews close to Russell Square, this bakery and café is conveniently located for visitors to Great Ormond Street, the Brunswick Centre and the British Museum – though you might have to compete with in-the-know locals for the creative sourdough baking. Interiors are modest but attractive, and it's hard to beat a bench seat outside on a sunny day, with a sticky bun in hand. Other highlights from the menu range from fat, flaky sausage rolls and brioche bostock with brown butter to beignets with chocolate, cardamom and clementine cream.

Famously founded by the International Society for Krishna Consciousness in 1979 (the Hare Krishna Temple is next door), this vegetarian/vegan evergreen is still making friends – thanks to its happy 'karma-free' vibe, low prices and ‘pure’ meat-free cooking. The place is run like a canteen and it’s invariably packed: join the queue, grab an alcohol-free drink (lassi, rose milkshake, mint lemonade), collect a tray and pay at the counter. Thalis are the headline acts, with regularly changing curries, soups, breads and Indian desserts such as shrikhand or gulab jamun. The kitchen even serves up a few international favourites including lasagne, pizza slices, spinach rolls, veggie burgers and cheesecake. Takeaways too.

In-the-know locals call ahead to ensure they don’t have to endure a long wait at this tiny, cash-only Vietnamese spot. Designed and run primarily as a takeaway (although there are a few foldable seats and one table inside), Hoa Phuong is essentially a one-woman show and you’re expected to play by her rules: opening times are hit and miss, and everything comes in disposable packaging (although regulars often bring their own containers). The spicy beef noodle soup gets rave reviews, but the short menu also features one-plate rice dishes (lemongrass chicken, grilled pork), plus spring rolls and suchlike. We recommend grabbing your takeaway and heading to nearby Elephant Park for a picnic.

From knitting classes and supper clubs to ice cream sandwiches and country dancing in the street, this ‘green oasis’ is a genuine community hub – and second home to many of its regulars. At its heart is a deli and café selling all sorts of provisions alongside a short menu of Italian-style sandwiches filled to the brim with seasonal goodness – think mortadella with grilled sweet peppers, pickled fennel and aïoli. They also serve pastries from the Little Bread Pedlar at the weekends and ‘the most amazing panettone’ to go with Monmouth coffee, Kernel beer and other drinks. Tables and chairs are laid out on beautiful Bonnington Square if you fancy alfresco. Check Instagram for opening times.

Tucked away from Highbury Fields, in a pleasant pocket of Corsica Street, this Japanese café has been nourishing in-the-know locals since 2017. A short menu runs from a Japanese breakfast spread – miso soup with a poached egg, multigrain rice ball and homemade granola – to nutritious 'balance bowls' and a selection of excellent onigiri. To drink, there are seasonal juices, fresh cordials and good coffee (from Monmouth) to enjoy with a slice of their burnt Basque cheesecake. Minimalist interiors create a calming retreat, though when the sun shines there are few more pleasant spots to while away a morning than a seat on the leafy terrace. Takeaways too.

A bright spark on Deptford High Street, this popular eatery was set up by seasoned London chefs Matt Klose and Sam Soan on the back of their thriving catering and events company. Upscale canteen furniture sets the tone, while chatty, amicable staff are happy to talk diners through the day’s line-up of Med-accented small plates and bigger dishes, Expect anything from crisp, dainty smoked haddock, cauliflower and lovage arancini to onglet steak with frites, coley fillet with sauce vierge or coconut panna cotta with strawberries. To drink, beers from Bermondsey and Peckham appear alongside cocktails and a clutch of Old World wines.

Husband and wife team Eroshan and Aushi Meewella’s bijou Sri Lankan eatery is fun, and their generous, low-priced, two-course set lunch comes highly recommended. Squeeze into the tiny terrace fronting Kingly Street (great for people-watching) or bag one of the tables inside and tuck into that Sri Lankan lunch staple – a composite curry/rice bowl. We chose Ceylon chicken curry and 'Vaira’s jaggery beef', both served with dhal, okra, coconutty pol sambol and mango chutney on a bed of rice. Wash it all down with Sri Lanka’s favourite Lion lager, cocktails such as a chilli-laced Margarita, or something from the short European wine list.

The impressive window display will stop you in your tracks if you’re ambling down Kentish Town Road, and there’s much more inside this wonderfully airy, family-run artisan bakery. You’ll be spoilt for choice, but everything is spot-on – from a jambon beurre baguette made with ham from a local butcher and cultured butter from Estate Dairy (‘a perfect example of simple things done well’) to a superb Earl Grey swirl – an unusual pastry packed full of flavour. They sell some decent lunchtime salads too (try the Bombay potato), and we will be back to sample their babka (sweet braided brioche) next time.

There’s a lot more competition than when Lardo first opened its doors in 2012, but this industrial-chic venue remains a favourite among the local families and well-to-do professionals of London Fields. While the pizza oven is busy turning out blistered-crust beauties, the kitchen demonstrates 'ristorante' skills with dishes like pig’s head croquette, soft ricotta gnudi as well as creative vegan options. Classic Italian desserts include affogato, tiramisu and panna cotta, while a short, stylish wine list starts with tempting bottles from £28.

Quite a caricature of a French bistro, complete with bentwood chairs, gingham tablecloths and workaday glassware, this neighbourhood favourite ensures that diners’ expectations are focused mistily across the Channel even before they sit down. The menu also delivers, from soupe de poissons to steak frites, but stay with the theme to get the best from it: salty samphire with roasted garlic prawns or crispy confit duck with soft-textured Puy lentils, say. The house dessert – a 'petit citron' posset – is worth holding out for, and readers have raved about the warm pot au chocolat. Drink French wines by the carafe and stick to the weekly set menu (or the daily deals) to keep things reasonably affordable. 

Following on from the success of their Marylebone original, Charlene Liu and Linda Liu’s Soho offshoot is housed in a basic, casual spot on the first floor of Kingly Court. Choice is down to variations on two Chongqing classics: pork, beef or vegan xiaomian wheat noodles in an aromatic and spicy broth, or hot-and-sour glass noodles (minced pork, vegan or gluten-free). You can dial the heat up or down, or opt for the ‘numbing’ pork-filled wonton in a broth packed with Szechuan peppercorns – perhaps with a cooling side of cucumber salad. Beer, cocktails or iced tea may be preferable to wine. Fast-paced, friendly staff give good advice, while happy customers bring laughter and life.

Conceived by two Chinese ladies from Chongqing who shared a flat in London, this buzzy, dimly lit noodle joint is squirrelled away in the basement of the Jackalope pub on Weymouth Mews. There’s no table service, so queue to place your order – although you'll be rewarded with some of the best noodles in town. Chongqing cuisine is similar to Szechuan, which means seriously pungent, spicy flavours – as in tender beef brisket with superb noodles and water spinach stirred into life with fresh coriander or signature xiao mian noodles with minced pork. Also try the big silky wontons in a pleasantly numbing broth with yellow beans. Highly addictive stuff. 

They should rename Bermondsey Street ‘Calle José Pizarro’ following the opening of the acclaimed Spanish chef’s third restaurant on this south London thoroughfare. Next door to José, Lolo offers all-day dining in casual but stylish surroundings (bare plaster walls, glazed ceramic tiles, beautiful wood flooring). Expect an attractive menu of gorgeously flavoursome small and large plates, ranging from silky chicken liver parfait topped with a piquant Pedro Ximénez glaze (a must-order accompanied by miniature sweet potato rolls for scooping) to tender Iberian pork ribs simply seasoned with salt and pepper. Ask for a stool at the open kitchen counter or take breakfast on the pavement terrace and feel part of the local scene.

It’s noisy and tightly packed but what really stands out is the service: here is a Chinese eatery where the staff are genuinely friendly and cheerful, tending to everyone’s needs with ‘unobtrusive efficiency’. Like the Xi’an Impressions original in north London, the food is an ‘outright bargain’ and truly authentic, with top honours going to the long, flat, hand-pulled noodles from Shaanxi province: the minced beef and vegetable version comes highly recommended. Other ‘deeply satisfying’ platefuls show off the kitchen’s street-food repertoire, from spicy smacked cucumber to the now-famous stewed pork burger. Portions are exceedingly generous.

An offshoot of Master Wei Xi'an in Bloomsbury, this latest offering from chef Guirong Wei is a short walk from Hammersmith Broadway, on the ground floor of a modern development. Inside, the slate-floored dining room is festooned with lanterns and filled with tightly squeezed tables, while service is super-friendly. We enjoyed thinly sliced pig's ear laced with pleasantly numbing chilli oil and tons of garlic, followed by big bowls of signature Xi'an biang biang noodles with beef and chilli sauce, as well as hand-pulled noodles with minced pork, beansprouts and cucumber – all reasonably priced. To drink there are exotic-sounding cocktails and a handful of wines.

It’s all about the toppings at this rustically charming eatery from Michele Pascarella, dubbed 'the pioneer of contemporary pizza'. The dough is cooked Neapolitan style in a wood-fired oven for a thick pillowy crust and a thin base, while the savoury additions go way beyond the margherita and diavola norm – think intensely savoury ricordi d’infanzia (topped with 24-hour beef-shin ragù and aged Parmigiano Reggiano fondue) or the ‘cheesewick’, which involves Stilton, homemade cherry tomato jam and crispy Parmesan chips. Also expect classic Italian fritti, antipasti and desserts such as maritozzi (Italian cream buns). There’s a branch in Richmond too.

Normah Abd Hamid, affectionately known in the local Malaysian food community as 'Auntie Normah' cooks entirely on her own in this bijou, simply furnished space deep inside Bayswater Market. It's not that easy to find but well worth the effort for generous portions of Malaysian hits at low prices. Start with flaky roti canai and dhal before tucking into tasty curry laksa with king prawns or mee goreng. Nasi lemak comes with aromatic beef rendang, and whole sea bass is paired with asam pedas or belachan. No alcohol is served, so drink hot, milky teh tarik ('pulled tea') instead.

Textured walls and a striking terrazzo floor add something a bit different to the Chelsea branch of Yotam Ottolenghi’s café/deli group, but there’s no mistaking the familiar white counters, the overflowing displays of cakes and pastries or the bowls of colourful salads and other Middle Eastern-inspired creations. Breakfast and an all-day lunch offer might bring anything from Dutch pancakes or scrambled harissa tofu with sweet potato crisps to roast chicken with ral el hanout, sumac and chilli. A fascinating drinks list includes Coalition beer and natural wines as well as raw, unpasteurised libations from the London Fermentary. Walk-ins only; not open for dinner.

This bustling, shiny white café and deli is where it all started for chef/writer Yotam Ottolenghi. Locals pile in for breakfast but there are temptations aplenty right through the day. ‘They champion such brilliant and unusual flavours,’ notes a fan – from the breads, quiches and vibrant Middle Eastern/fusion salads arrayed on the counter to earthy, spice-infused hot dishes such as grilled lamb kofta with onion squash borani, Aleppo chilli oil and herbs. Tempting displays of cakes and tarts in the window attract passers-by, while the list of low-intervention wines is exemplary. Bookings for dinner only.

Down a narrow Georgian alleyway not far from Liverpool Street and Old Spitalfields Market, this branch of Yotam Ottolenghi’s café/deli group follows the blueprint to the letter. A gleaming white frontage, clean-lined contemporary interiors and counters loaded with pastries, salads and flavourful Middle Eastern-inspired delicacies set the tone, but this outlet also boasts a dedicated takeaway counter and a separate bar for cocktails and low-intervention wines. Seasonal tempters from the kitchen might range from celeriac skewers with fragrant chilli oil and garlicky Lebanese toum to roasted mackerel with pickled kumquat and tomato salsa. Breakfast and afternoon tea are good calls too.

An amble through Epping Forest wouldn’t be complete without a refuelling stop-off at this totally unexpected – but immensely popular – seafood shack next door to the Kings Oak (not far from the Visitor Centre). Join the inevitable queues, place your order, bag a seat (inside or out) and wait for your name to be called. Hot and cold seafood ‘tapas’ platters go down a storm, as do oysters on ice and the now-legendary curried mango prawns. We also adore the freshly made bacon and scallop rolls. Get your drinks from the pub and throw your takeaway plates in the bin when you’ve finished.

Famous for its pop-up pitch on Netil Market, Pockets has moved round the corner to a permanent new home on Mentmore Terrace. Nothing else has changed – so expect to queue for its legendary pittas. Founder Itamar Grinberg grew up eating similar in Tel Aviv and brings Londoners the joy of fluffy pockets stuffed full to bursting with freshly fried falafel, cabbage slaw, sumac onions, tomato, parsley, cucumber and fried potato. Sauces include houmous, tahini, red zhug, a herby green version or amba (pickled mango) – all made in-house.

Images: @lilly.eat.world & @londonshared / Instagram

Housed in Apparel Tasker, a sustainable garment factory in Bow, this Italian café is a cosy corner sealed off by glass so guests can observe the production line while enjoying their coffee and cake. Humble home cooking of Italian and Austrian origin is on offer for weekday lunches and a Friday evening supper club. The simple, affordable menu ranges from soups and sandwiches to pizza and pasta. It changes daily, so don't come expecting anything specific  though you might be rewarded with Sardinian wild fennel soup layered with pane carasau and cheese or fettuccine alla romana with chicken offal.

For many years, Rasa Sayang has been a popular no-frills spot for halal Straits cooking in Soho Chinatown. Service is brisk and the menu reflects the diversity of the region's cuisine: start with roti canai or chewy tempeh (fermented soya beans) laced with sambal, before tackling hawker mainstays such as tasty char kway teow (stir-fried flat rice noodles). Chilli crab (with mantou buns) and rich Malaysian-style red curry with chicken (served on the bone) are highly recommended, too. End with bubur cha cha – a classic Peranakan ('mixed heritage') dessert involving sago, sweet potatoes, yam and pandan in coconut milk. Drink teh tarik ('pulled tea') or Tiger beer.

Opposite Sam's Larder and round the corner from Sam's Riverside, this corner café is Sam Harrison’s updated version of a greasy spoon. Inside, it’s unpretentiously done out with brown leather and pops of colour, while the menu trades in full fry-ups, pancakes, Brixham crab crumpets, lunchtime salads and satisfying platefuls such as peas on toast with bacon on the side. Breakfast tea comes in a pot with a white porcelain cup and saucer and there’s a small menu of cocktails, wine and beer for those looking to kick-start their weekend. No bookings, so expect queues for weekend brunch.

A central hub for political radicalism in the latter years of the 18th century, this gorgeous Grade II-listed Fitzrovia boozer has been revitalised as a hostelry for the ages by the JKS restaurant group. We recommend the ground-floor bar for its alluring heritage vibe (all gilded mirrors, lush leather banquettes and dark wood panelling) and its menu of classic pub grub – think black pudding Scotch eggs with Oxford sauce, braised ox cheek with mash, beer-battered fish, rhubarb and custard trifle, banana split. Prodigious Sunday roasts also come highly recommended, as does the admirable drinks selection (terrific English sparkling wines, artisan beers, ‘very, very nice Guinness’, cheeky cocktails et al). Brilliant staff, too.

There seems to be a permanent queue at London’s poshest chippy, though any poshness focuses on the food rather than the decor (tiled, basic, cramped). Tourists flock here, and locals pop-in for takeaway – the only way to beat the queue, as you get dealt with immediately. Everyone is here for generous portions of sparklingly fresh fillet of cod or haddock in a light, crisp beer batter with thick-cut chips – at a reasonable price for Mayfair. Gluten-free (and alcohol-free) batter is also an option. Other dishes are available (perhaps lobster macaroni cheese or shepherd’s pie), but as the returning American in front of us in the queue said, ‘you come for the fish and chips’. Drinks extend to cocktails, beers and a brief, fish-friendly wine selection.

An upmarket pub with rooms that’s also a true local hangout. Here you’ll find folk having business meetings alongside yoga mums and smart families (drawn by the pretty playground out back). There's something for everyone, from pints and bar snacks in the old-fashioned bar (complete with sport on TV) to proper food from the restaurant menu (also available at the bar if you ask). With really good meat for the local rugby types and Asian chopped salad for their trendily vegan partners, it’s all very relaxed.

At the weekend, you may have to join a lengthy queue if you accidentally hit peak time, such is the popularity of this small, crowdfunded Camberwell bakery where excellent bread is a given. Sourdough is long-fermented and made from UK-grown, sustainably farmed grain, but the stars of the show are the pastries. Choose from sweet treats such as almond croissants, saffron and vanilla teacakes or yuzu orange Jaffa mini cakes; otherwise, pick up a savoury croissant (beef brisket 'bear claw' with pickle, say). There are daily meat and vegetarian sandwich options, too.

Image: Teo Della Torre

Offspring of the nearby Toklas restaurant, this bakery and café has the bonus of ample indoor seating for those who want to linger over its delectable cakes, pastries and savouries. We love the seasonality of their offer – try the Danish with fresh fig and a squiggle of mascarpone or (even better) a pillowy pan de coca baked with Muscat grapes, tahini and brown butter frangipane. At lunchtime, everyone piles in for 'strecci' (slices of Roman-style pizza on crispy-oily focaccia with various toppings): the roast chicken version with crispy chicken skin and roasted garlic aïoli is a winner. We also have fond memories of the ‘celestially good’ Basque cheesecake topped with Todoli citrus. They serve decent coffee too.

Between March and November, the shutters roll up on this south-facing stretch of the Regent’s Canal and out comes an assembly of benches and tables set with jam jars of pretty wildflower posies. Early birds might plump for sliced fried eggs with caramelised sage and chilli butter, while lunch brings good grilled cheese sandwiches with quince jelly. Dinner (Thursday-Saturday in peak summer) is the time for nourishing seasonal plates, from green bean fritti with romesco to roast chicken with braised white beans. Wines and  homemade cocktails match the setting and the coffee is ‘Sydney good,’ notes one fan from those parts. Towpath is insanely popular and they don't accept bookings, so take potluck – and dress for the weather. We guarantee you’ll be charmed.