Where to eat along the Pembrokeshire Coast Path during National Walking Month
Published 05 May 2026

In the spring of 2023, Annwn's chef-owner Matt Powell relocated to new premises in the centre of Narberth. The set-up may look freshly minted, but it's a place with a purpose, a blink-and-you-miss-it spot, squished between other high-street shops. And with its simple white walls, slate floor and minimally laid oak tables, it’s a welcome pop of urban cool for this market town. Indeed, the juxtaposition of theatre-style seating facing an open-plan kitchen gives an interesting insight into the ordered working of the solo chef – just don’t expect the rigmarole of fine dining. Instead, an air of fresh informality and genuine friendliness prevails. The multi-course tasting menu sings lustily of food that's been caught, cured, foraged, picked, pickled and preserved – all from the estuaries, forests and fields of Pembrokeshire. We loved the individuality, the localism, the backstories to the dishes – the sheer skill on display. There was a wistfulness to some of the ingredients, from the use of Welsh in some descriptions and the reference to an ancient and dying Welsh language to the revival of an almost lost Welsh grain used in the bread. Luxury is not necessarily defined by a flash of lobster (deliciously served with laver seaweed, shoreline plants and lobster dressing), but by garden-fresh produce whose flavours are allowed to shine. Carrots, picked from Matt's garden that afternoon, teamed with some saltier preserved slices, preserved blackcurrants and hogweed seeds (all lapped by a rich, buttery carrot sauce) proved to be a fabulous amalgamation of sweet and salty. Elsewhere, a play on wild garlic, 'preserved in its life cycle' (bud, flower, leaves, seeds) and presented like a botanical painting, was simply sensational. By contrast, there was a rusticity to shoulder of saltmarsh lamb braised in honey and beer (a traditional Welsh way); tender enough to be eaten with a spoon, it was offset by a sea buckthorn emulsification, sea radish and scurvy grass. And as a finale, a delicate gorse-flower custard served in an eggshell with birch-vinegar meringue and sweet cicely proved to be a studiously assembled masterpiece. On our visit, the wine list (entirely English and Welsh) provided just two by the glass: a Lyme Bay Chardonnay (£19), and a Beaujolais-style White Castle Regent from Monmouthshire (£18), which drank well with our meal.

A lovely prospect in an entrancing bucolic setting, The Grove at Narberth not only does fine dining admirably but also caters for those seeking a simpler, more relaxed experience. Indeed, if you’re staying for a day or two, the Artisan Rooms offers ‘a perfect balance of comfort and creativity,’ as well as a change of pace from the main event of dining in the flagship Fernery. Reached via a charming maze of public rooms (rugs, fireplaces, old settles, voluptuous sofas and plenty of Welsh arts and crafts), it is all about laid-back chic with an artisan, rustic edge in the form of gorgeous old pottery and patchwork finds.

The menu offers something for everyone, from fishcakes, upmarket burgers and beef shin with creamed potatoes and hispi cabbage to more sophisticated offerings along the lines of sea bream with cucumber, watermelon and chilli or lamb shoulder dressed with chimichurri and accompanied by charcoal mash.

Desserts exhibit similar scope – you could plump for the hearty comforts of rice pudding laced with rum and pineapple or go for the swankier chocolate-encased, gold-spangled chocolate gâteau with pistachio and cherries. It’s all very easy-going and enjoyable. There’s also the pleasure of ‘thoughtfully crafted’ Sunday roasts and a sophisticated wine list with plentiful options by the glass.

Standing proud on the northwest Pembrokeshire peninsula, the Twr-y-Felin (Milltower) hotel was a working windmill when it was built in the early 19th century. It's now been restyled as a boutique hotel, with a sultrily lit dining room hung with an extensive collection of contemporary artworks.

It makes an apposite setting for the artfully conceived modern cooking of Sam Owen, where the distinguishing features are original combinations of quality ingredients and a fine sense of on-plate aesthetics. Solva crab is teamed with swede, chicken skin and chervil as one possible opener, to be followed perhaps by venison with game-friendly accompaniments in the shape of black pudding, beetroot and blackcurrant.

An alternative route might be to open with a serving of charred onion with hazelnuts, Parmesan and thyme, before heading seawards with monkfish and curried mussels, presented alongside parsnip and a sweetly biting caper and raisin purée. Savoury notes inform ingenious dessert compositions such as chocolate ganache with passion fruit, salted crumbs and banana/miso ice cream. Featured wines head up a list supplied by Justerini & Brooks that makes a commendable effort to find plenty of decent choice below £40.

The location and the views over Carmarthen Bay are as stunning as ever, but the restaurant formerly known as Coast has been re-branded and refreshed as Lan y Môr, with Hywel Griffith (the Beach House, Oxwich) and head chef Gerwyn Jones (ex-the Fernery at Narbeth) at the helm. With its front-facing windows looking out onto Coppet Hall Beach, the interior didn’t need much updating, but the whole set-up is now far more relaxed and family-friendly compared to the former tasting menu concept – although Welsh produce still dominates the kitchen’s wide-ranging, eclectic offer. 

Bowls of perfectly crunchy, peppery ‘frockles’ (battered cockles with smoky sea salt and mayo) set the scene, ahead of starters that span everything from classic Welsh rarebit to seared Saundersfoot mackerel salad with pickled fennel and orange segments or bao buns stuffed with hot honey chicken. Mains are categorised as ‘pasture’, ‘land’ and 'sea’, so expect anything from bluefin tuna burgers, lobster with tandoori butter or BBQ tofu with a char-siu glaze to an incredibly tender, flavourful chunk of Welsh lamb rump served with charred gem lettuce and anchovy dressing. 

Welsh cakes and Tregoes waffles figure on the dessert menu, alongside the likes of boozy chocolate and cherry cake with clotted cream; the Welsh cheeseboard beckons, too. The wine list (curated by the team at Narberth) offers plenty of choice across all price points, with some notable bottles from local wineries such as Velfrey Vineyard; there's also a decent choice by the glass or carafe.

Five years have flown by since Monika Olszewska and Charlie Smith followed their dream of opening a bakery by the sea, and it's been a story of ongoing success among the Fishguard community. You'll often find queues down the High Street for their all-organic sourdough and their seasonal danishes sporting spectacular lamination. So long as you get there early, there's plenty to choose from – perhaps a carrot-cake cruffin, a slice of rum and raisin croissant pudding, or a leek and Stilton savoury.

A welcome pit stop for walkers and outdoor types on a relatively sparse section of the Pembrokeshire Coast Path, Porthclais Kiosk provides exactly what is required – and doesn’t try to be anything more. The picturesque harbour is a gathering point for various coastal activity companies so it’s a great place to fuel up beforehand – or revive yourself afterwards. On offer is well-brewed coffee, alongside locally baked cakes, made-to-order sandwiches and toasties, plus a small selection of local ice creams.

St Davids has always had a relaxed, back-to-nature vibe and this former bakery fits in nicely, serving up wild pickings (and more besides) in an informal but stylish setting of exposed brickwork walls, industrial metal lighting, stripped wood floors and scrubbed rustic wood tables. The vibe is warm and friendly, the cooking imaginative yet down-to-earth: you’ll get nibbles such as sugar kelp popcorn or tempura-battered oyster mushrooms with red chilli and sea buckthorn dip, as well as more considered dishes – maybe a perfect piece of wild sea bass served with asparagus in a light sauce sparkling with fresh tomatoes and bright green three-cornered leek oil. In contrast, a main course of Jerusalem artichoke and beef cottage pie with pickled wild garlic and black truffle cheese heads back to the rustic side of the tracks, while adding welcome layers of interest to a homely classic. It’s a no-choice, six-course tasting menu (with a separate vegan option) so be prepared to go with the flow; you’re in safe hands, right through to desserts such as a moist almond tart topped with peaches and winsome Chinese lanterns, served with creamy meadowsweet custard. The drinks list follows suit, with everything from nettle ale to birch-sap wine. Really Wild is also a shop and community foraging hub, with accommodation on the top floor of the Art Deco building, where each bedroom is appropriately named after a type of seaweed. 

Well worth the walk down from the Pembrokeshire Coast Path, the remote expanses of Marloes Sands can be completely submerged during high tide (you have been warned). Located in a farmyard adjoining the car park, Runwayskiln's little café serves breakfast baps before 11am and a short but varied lunch menu ranging from smoked haddock gratin or crispy slow-roasted Myrddin Heritage pork shoulder with smoky black-bean chilli, pickles, chipotle mayo and soft corn tacos to ‘light and almost ethereal’ beer-battered fish with chips and mushy peas. In summer, picnic benches make the most of the coastal view, while the courtyard has a kiosk serving ice cream and toasties. Self-contained, hostel-style bedrooms too.

Grove of Narberth is in a remarkable location – a glorious, whitewashed country house of various vintages, surrounded by gardens that are 'a riot of colour in spring and summer' with ancient oaks and verdant, tree-lined fields. The interior delivers all the hoped-for modern country house glamour: an abundance of comfy sofas, chic decor, polished service. All of this comes together in The Fernery, a smart, white tableclothed affair, candlelit in the evenings, with the focus on local, seasonal ingredients and global flavours. On the eight-course tasting menu, smoked potato could be teamed with dashi, asparagus and bottarga, while succulent beef cosies up with fermented shiitake, alliums and potato. Squab pigeon is paired with celeriac, cherry and nasturtium, and native Black Bomber Cheddar is matched with apple, carrot and a fresh blast of coriander. Herbs are put to good use here – note a dessert of macadamia nuts with rhubarb, mascarpone and sweet marjoram – and much of what’s on the menu comes straight from the hotel’s own kitchen gardens. The extensive wine list is backed by an expert sommelier, so expect solid guidance through choices that extend from native Welsh finds to classics from the New and Old Worlds, including Billecart-Salmon Champagnes and plenty of sustainable, organic options (many of them available by the glass).