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Blas

Pembrokeshire, St Davids - Modern British - Restaurant - £££

Artful modern dining in historic surrounds

Overall Rating: Good

Uniqueness:Does the establishment stand out in the context of the local area? Good

Deliciousness:How delicious is the food? Good

Warmth:How warm is the service and the hospitality in general? Good

Strength of recommendation:How enthusiastically and widely would you recommend the establishment? Good

Standing proud on the northwest Pembrokeshire peninsula, the Twr-y-Felin (Milltower) hotel was a working windmill when it was built in the early 19th century. It's now been restyled as a boutique hotel, with a sultrily lit dining room hung with an extensive collection of contemporary artworks. It makes an apposite setting for the artfully conceived modern cooking of Sam Owen, where the distinguishing features are original combinations of quality ingredients and a fine sense of on-plate aesthetics. Solva crab is teamed with swede, chicken skin and chervil as one possible opener, to be followed perhaps by venison with game-friendly accompaniments in the shape of black pudding, beetroot and blackcurrant. An alternative route might be to open with a serving of charred onion with hazelnuts, Parmesan and thyme, before heading seawards with monkfish and curried mussels, presented alongside parsnip and a sweetly biting caper and raisin purée. Savoury notes inform ingenious dessert com...

Standing proud on the northwest Pembrokeshire peninsula, the Twr-y-Felin (Milltower) hotel was a working windmill when it was built in the early 19th century. It's now been restyled as a boutique hotel, with a sultrily lit dining room hung with an extensive collection of contemporary artworks.

It makes an apposite setting for the artfully conceived modern cooking of Sam Owen, where the distinguishing features are original combinations of quality ingredients and a fine sense of on-plate aesthetics. Solva crab is teamed with swede, chicken skin and chervil as one possible opener, to be followed perhaps by venison with game-friendly accompaniments in the shape of black pudding, beetroot and blackcurrant.

An alternative route might be to open with a serving of charred onion with hazelnuts, Parmesan and thyme, before heading seawards with monkfish and curried mussels, presented alongside parsnip and a sweetly biting caper and raisin purée. Savoury notes inform ingenious dessert compositions such as chocolate ganache with passion fruit, salted crumbs and banana/miso ice cream. Featured wines head up a list supplied by Justerini & Brooks that makes a commendable effort to find plenty of decent choice below £40.

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VENUE DETAILS

Twr Y Felin Hotel, Ffordd Caerfai
St Davids
Pembrokeshire
SA62 6QTGB

01437 725555

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OTHER INFORMATION

Accommodation, Separate bar, Wheelchair access, Parking, Electric car charging, Credit card required, Deposit required

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