Restaurants with glorious gardens 2025 | Where To Eat

Allium at Askham Hall

Askham, Cumbria £££

Dining at chef Richard Swale’s Allium at Askham Hall is like being a house guest in a small château. The 14th-century Pele tower in the picture-perfect hamlet of Askham was, until 2012, the family home of the Lowther family. S… Read more

Dining at chef Richard Swale’s Allium at Askham Hall is like being a house guest in a small château. The 14th-century Pele tower in the picture-perfect hamlet of Askham was, until 2012, the family home of the Lowther family. Sensitively converted for human-scaled hospitality, it remains family-owned and an integral part of the wider working estate. A hand-drawn sketch within the daily changing six-course menu illustrates the provenance of the vast majority of ingredients direct from their own perfectly tended market gardens, farms and upland game areas. Produce this fresh demands cooking of absolute integrity and authenticity, and this Allium is certainly one lily that needs no gilding. The result? Uber-local dishes of joyous celebration, technical excellence and maximum flavour. The Askham garden salad with sheep's curd, truffle and a duck-gizzard vinaigrette is a dish with nowhere to hide, offering simple perfection, leaf by carefully placed leaf. The bold approach to sweet Mull langoustines with red curry and cauliflower pays dividends, while tender red deer with summer savory, beetroot and elderberries captures the essence of this distinctive place on a single plate. A geranium set cream with rhubarb evidences a lightness of touch and preparedness to elevate humble plants to elegant status. Dining in the airy garden room, sensitively appended to the original castle walls, emphasises its proximity to the produce which is the bedrock of brilliance underpinning this 'charming experience'. To match the quality of cooking, an awe-inspiring leather-bound wine list navigates an A-Z of the world’s great wines from the private cellars of passionate collectors. Despite some unique rarities costing an average UK annual salary, there are many well-chosen options at prices accessible to ordinary mortals. All is lovingly stewarded by charming house manager/maître d'/sommelier Nico Chieze, who approaches customers of differing wine knowledge with equal grace and curates flights that cut through any complexity or concern. Some restaurants may appear arbitrary in their location, but Allium and its close-knit family at Askham Hall has deep roots into the local land, history and community.

Askham Hall, Askham, Cumbria CA10 2PF

Flora

Mawgan, Cornwall ££

Confidently simple, seasonally attuned cooking in enchanting surroundings

Located a winding five-minute drive through the 1,000-acre Trelowarren Estate on the Lizard Peninsula, this remarkable enterprise feels charmingly isolated – although a handful of holiday cottages and a small gallery, plus F… Read more

Located a winding five-minute drive through the 1,000-acre Trelowarren Estate on the Lizard Peninsula, this remarkable enterprise feels charmingly isolated – although a handful of holiday cottages and a small gallery, plus Flora’s café, bakery and restaurant bring a quiet buzz to the old stable yard at the centre of things.

Tim and Louise Rødkjaer Spedding took up residence here in early 2023 and make excellent use of local supplies as well as produce from their walled garden. What they offer is some of the most confidently simple cooking in the region, all deeply connected to the seasons in a way that most city chefs can only dream of.

Superb Danish pastries are the stars at breakfast (Louise is from Copenhagen), and bread from their wood-fired oven is a mainstay across the board. During a recent summer lunchtime visit, our table in the courtyard (next to rambling roses and vines) was perfect for enjoying a fragrant but barely dressed salad of mozzarella, fresh peas, nectarine and basil, paired with a generous portion of Tim’s sesame-encrusted einkorn loaf (some of the best we’ve ever had). Dessert was a perfect arrangement of chamomile panna cotta, strawberries and tangy elderflower granita, which elicited audible sighs from fellow diners.

The café also opens for dinner on Fridays and Saturdays, when the repertoire might range from butter-poached lobster with cherry tomatoes, basil and lemon verbena to crisp pork belly partnered by anchovy sauce, grilled peppers and olives. On Sundays, they open the larger New Yard restaurant space for a fixed-price lunchtime spread headlined by a mighty roast – perhaps 60-day dry-aged sirloin and featherblade with rainbow chard, grilled onions and fresh horseradish.

Service from a small, happy team is cheerfulness personified, while homemade soft drinks such as kombuchas and fig-leaf cordials sit alongside a selection of wines from Tutto. Booking is recommended for lunch and dinner, as is a walk through the estate to the magic creeks of the Helford River (featured in Daphne du Maurier’s Frenchman’s Creek).

New Yard, Trelowarren Estate, Mawgan, Cornwall TR12 6AF

Glenapp Castle

Ballantrae, South Ayrshire £££

Visitors to Glenapp Castle might look forward to a certain ‘Downton Abbey’ vibe with its secluded location, impeccable welcome, opulent environment and stunning views across the Ayrshire coast to Ailsa Craig. It’… Read more

Ballantrae, South Ayrshire KA26 0NZ

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Grace & Savour

Hampton-in-Arden, West Midlands ££££

Forget the puff on Hampton Manor’s website: there’s not an ounce of flounce in David Taylor’s cooking. He strips down food to its essentials, its essences. The results are deceptively simple – and sensation… Read more

Forget the puff on Hampton Manor’s website: there’s not an ounce of flounce in David Taylor’s cooking. He strips down food to its essentials, its essences. The results are deceptively simple – and sensational. Taylor, still in his 30s, has worked in some big-name kitchens, from Purnell's in Birmingham to Maaemo in Oslo, and a Nordic influence is apparent in the minimalist stylings of the restaurant – a modern, airy addition set apart from the hotel itself, with cream walls, dark wooden furniture and bare rafters. Focal points are the walled garden, displayed through large picture windows, and the open kitchen where the final touches are given to dishes before serving. Watch Taylor and his young team: studies in quiet concentration. The atmosphere is casual yet focused, serene yet serious. Diners for Saturday lunchtime's eight-course tasting menu (there’s also a 15-course dinner) are dressed-down, as are the engaging on-the-ball staff; relaxing folk harmonies provide the background soundtrack. Dishes are described at table, sometimes by Taylor himself, and a written menu is supplied with the bill. Lunch might commence with tomato consommé surrounding a solitary cherry tomato, at peak ripeness. Supporting ingredients (smoked lamb’s heart in the broth; sweet cicely garnish) serve to tease out the tomato’s true flavour. Likewise, the following dish: a creamy buttermilk emulsion covering little chunks of leek, with a topping of powdered leek (there’s much freeze-drying here) to pique the palate. Bread from Hampton Manor’s bakery gets its own course, and even diners with modest appetites can relish the two thick slices of irresistible sourdough since carbs are a rarity later on. Next, a highlight: a single, exquisitely tender scallop, its sweetness accentuated by imperceptible honey, topped with strands of its dried roe, plus a broth of roasted mussels to provide some seaside punch. Two little courses of fowl might follow: a juicy slice of wood pigeon matched with an autumnal girolle purée in a sublime sticky pigeon and redcurrant sauce followed by succulent duck breast contrasted with a small liver-rich faggot coated in tangy gooseberry gel. Provenance is important here: much produce hails from the walled garden, suppliers are name-checked and soil-health is a deciding factor in choosing the wines (an enticing list ordered into evocatively named sections and administered by a quietly passionate sommelier). Of the three sweet dishes on offer, mouth-wateringly zesty local blueberries best epitomised Taylor’s approach: served under a luxuriously creamy buttermilk mousse but rooted to the earth by a topping of grassy sorrel powder. Only the finale offered unalloyed indulgence: two brown-butter madeleines with a pot of rich crème diplomat, a blob of rum syrup at its centre. Coherence, innovation, artistry: qualities on which the very top restaurants should be judged. Grace & Savour excels at all three.

Hampton Manor, Shadowbrook Lane, Hampton-in-Arden, West Midlands B92 0EN

Gravetye Manor

East Grinstead, West Sussex £££

Enchanting Elizabethan charmer with showpiece gardens

* Martin Carabott (ex-Luca and Hide) has been appointed executive head chef, following George Bloggs' departure at the end of 2024. Watch for a new review coming soon.* The house was bought in 1884 by William Robinson, renowned h… Read more

* Martin Carabott (ex-Luca and Hide) has been appointed executive head chef, following George Bloggs' departure at the end of 2024. Watch for a new review coming soon.*

The house was bought in 1884 by William Robinson, renowned horticulturist, journalist and champion of 'natural gardening', and over the years its grounds have been lovingly nurtured by Gravetye's successive occupants. It's a glorious spot and well worth a wander if time and weather allow; check out the magnificent Victorian kitchen garden if you want to see where many of the ingredients on your plate come from. There are glasshouses and polytunnels on the land as well.

It's the kind of place where you're greeted outside by smiling staff and offered drinks out on the lawn or in a grand panelled room with an ornate moulded ceiling; once you're seated in your well-upholstered chair in the smart, contemporary dining room with its wall of glass overlooking blooming borders, everything is hunky-dory – and the feel-good mood continues as the food arrives.

A cheese and truffle gougère disappears in one satisfyingly bite, and its companion amuse-bouche – duck liver parfait with blackberry gel – reveals the kitchen's penchant for prettiness. Seasonal lunch and dinner menus include supplementary intermediate courses and cheese if you're going all in, and there are thoughtfully put together vegetarian and vegan opportunities too. The bread basket overflows with the likes of buttermilk brioche and seeded malt bread, although the arrival of five flavoured butters maybe suggests that the kitchen is a little too keen to impress. To follow, cured chalk stream trout gets a sweet smokiness from the clever use of lapsang souchong tea (plus a citrus zing from finger limes), while the Gravetye garden salad with confit egg yolk is a 'beautifully colourful' beatification of the garden's bounty.

Modern ideas are underpinned by classical good sense, so 'duck and orange' matches tender meat (its skin deliciously crisp) with a sweet hit of marmalade plus earthy forms of beetroot and red chicory (from caramelised to pickled). Saucing is on the money throughout (Chardonnay with fillet of turbot, for example) and flavours ring true – not least the 'fabulous' mint ice cream, which tastes fresh from the plant and is ceremonially placed into a perfectly risen blackcurrant soufflé. The wine list has the the English southern counties covered, including top-drawer fizz, but it deals in excellence from around the world – although its first love is the French classics.

Vowels Lane, East Grinstead, West Sussex RH19 4LJ

Hambleton Hall

Hambleton, Rutland ££££

To its many returnees, Hambleton Hall is the very definition of country-house dining: a late-Victorian pile on a peninsula jutting into Rutland Water, with beautifully tended landscaped gardens and a brigade of front-of-house staf… Read more

Ketton Road, Hambleton, Rutland LE15 8TH

Iford Manor Café & Kitchen

Freshford, Somerset ££

Tucked away at the bottom of a steep valley that feels lost in time, this 'absolute hidden gem' of a farm-to-table restaurant is an entrancing prospect complete with prettily planted sun-trap terraces, while inside beautiful oak b… Read more

Iford Lane, Freshford, Somerset BA15 2BA

New Review

Langar Hall

Langar, Nottinghamshire £££

Aristocratic hotel-restaurant with timeless appeal

Nothing much changes at Langar Hall – and therein lies its appeal. Though it’s been business for some three decades, there is something timeless about following the long avenue of limes to this tangerine-hued country h… Read more

Church Lane, Langar, Nottinghamshire NG13 9HG

Le Manoir aux Quat'Saisons

Great Milton, Oxfordshire ££££

Le Manoir in late May is a picture. Wisteria drapes over its honeyed stone, and you can wander freely across graceful lawns to kitchen gardens, orchards and ponds that hum with the energy of the season. This has been Raymond Blanc… Read more

Le Manoir in late May is a picture. Wisteria drapes over its honeyed stone, and you can wander freely across graceful lawns to kitchen gardens, orchards and ponds that hum with the energy of the season. This has been Raymond Blanc’s domain for almost 40 years and while firmly rooted in that heritage, its gaze is now fixed firmly on the future. Clearly the brief for 30-something Luke Selby, executive head chef since January 2023, has been not to cause upheaval within these mellow walls, rather to lead things gently forward – his six-course menu feels light-footed and playful, youthful and fresh. Luxury here is defined not necessarily by a flash of langoustine or lobster, more by garden-fresh produce whose flavours are allowed to shine. Tiny peas gather with vivid sweetness on a ricotta-filled tartlet, one of the exquisite canapés. Beetroot demonstrates its peerless versatility in a beautiful opener of deftly cubed pieces, the tartare base for a dome of beetroot mousse glossed with a gel that’s dotted with pickled mooli ‘flowers’. It’s fun and palate-awakening, thanks to a horseradish sorbet that sears fierily through the sweetness. Later, a dainty potato basket of tiny carrots, ribboned asparagus and crimson-edged slivers of radish is a bouquet of garden offerings alongside roasted guinea fowl. A morel filled with the lightest chicken and mushroom mousse sits in the airy tickle of a Gewürztraminer foam like a giant thimble; underneath is just-poached white asparagus, on top a crisp toast for texture. It’s a Blanc classic, but updated to offer a single, showstopping mushroom rather than three small ones as on previous menus. Classic too is the confit chalk stream trout on pickled mooli with compressed cucumber, tiny cauliflower florets, horseradish, dill oil and oscietra caviar. Its summery flavours are beautifully balanced, and it’s dashingly attractive. Desserts are exquisite. Bitter chocolate with coconut sorbet refreshes, before rosy-red gariguette and wild strawberries arrive, announced by their fragrance. Scarlet pieces of fresh fruit and a bright strawberry sorbet top a feather-light mousse, a pistachio biscuit base tempering the fruit’s natural acidity. Be assured, this is special-occasion territory without a doubt. Service glides with easy professionalism. The conservatory dining room is comfortable. Sommeliers are attentive. This is helpful given the scope of the wine list, which proudly celebrates France before heading, for example, to Austria for Martin and Anna Arndorfer’s minerally Riesling or to cool-climate Patagonia for Bodega Noemia’s smooth biodynamic Malbec. The four-glass paired flight is £95 at lunch; for those with unfathomably deep pockets, the £999 ‘sélection exceptionelle’ (£799 at lunch) includes Burgundy winemaker Cecile Tremblay’s magnificent 2015 Chambolle-Musigny Premier Cru, Les Feusselottes.

Church Road, Great Milton, Oxfordshire OX44 7PD

Marle

Heckfield, Hampshire £££

Sophistication meets sustainability in this rural haven

Australian chef Skye Gyngell (the driving force behind Spring in London's Somerset House) has been in charge of this grand Georgian mansion's culinary direction since 2021. Sustainability isn’t just a buzzword at this rural … Read more

Heckfield Place, Heckfield, Hampshire RG27 0LD

Moor Hall

Aughton, Lancashire ££££

Its roots may stretch back to the time when Henry VIII was reinventing the English Church, but Grade II-listed Moor Hall is now at the pinnacle of present-day hospitality, thanks to a stunning renovation. Here you will find a ligh… Read more

Its roots may stretch back to the time when Henry VIII was reinventing the English Church, but Grade II-listed Moor Hall is now at the pinnacle of present-day hospitality, thanks to a stunning renovation. Here you will find a light, contemporary dining room (all clean lines, glass walls and thoughtfully considered detailing), plus glorious guest rooms, and a meticulously maintained kitchen garden that's always worth the tour – unless the weather is particularly grim. Indeed, that tour forms part of what we can for once call 'the journey', in that it is a staging-post on a canapé trail that starts in the lounge and ends in the kitchen, amid a whirl of activity from one of the most talented brigades in the land led by Mark Birchall. ‘His passion and drive are there for all to see,’ notes an admirer, and his startling culinary conceptions are brimming with imaginative panache. Expect a succession of multiple small courses that rarely miss a beat, while surprising and captivating even those already familiar with the style. A dinner that opens with a melt-on-the-tongue ‘flying saucer’ of puffed black pudding filled with gooseberry purée means business. By the time you arrive at your destination table, an oyster with white beetroot, dill and buttermilk might well turn up to greet you. Reporters often say it is nigh-on impossible to pick out highlights from the seasonally changing repertoire, but let's mention the richest, silkiest and most decadent mouthful of cod roe, chicken and chervil with a hint of salty/briny caviar, accompanied by beautiful-looking biscuits pressed with flowers from the garden. For some readers, fish is the undoubted highlight: a supremely delicate Mull scallop is brought to earth with asparagus and the merest suggestion of truffle, while a booming, deeply flavoured mussel and roe sauce shines the spotlight on a pairing of turbot and salsify – simplicity and richness taken to a world-beating new level. Superlative meat dishes have ranged from Spoutbank Angus beef (aged for 60 days) with BBQ celeriac, mustard and shallot to a startling plate of sika venison from Dorset with kale, beetroot, elderberry and some of the liver, dressed in whey and truffled honey. Desserts are often voguishly fragrant (woodruff, birch sap and marigold lending their scents to an apple and gooseberry assembly), while the ice cream suffused with Ormskirk gingerbread (a fine old Lancastrian speciality) is an essay in how to be luscious and spiky at the same time. As one reader observed: ‘Every taste and detail in every course is perfection.’ Some have felt that the wine flights are not quite as imaginative as they might be, and wine service could sometimes be more engaging (an odd tendency when there is such an authoritative and extensive core list to choose from), although everything will be right with the world once the fabulous array of petits fours arrives to give you a send-off back in the lounge.

Prescot Road, Aughton, Lancashire L39 6RT

Petersham Nurseries Café

Richmond, London £££

On paper, this rustic restaurant starts at a disadvantage. Located at the back of an old greenhouse in a plant nursery, with dirt floors and wobbly old tables and chairs, you might wonder what all the fuss is about. Add to that, t… Read more

Church Lane, Petersham Road, Richmond, London TW10 7AG

Pythouse Kitchen Garden

Tisbury, Wiltshire ££

‘This is how summer dining should be,’ thought one visitor. Indeed. Deep in the Wiltshire countryside, Pythouse's billowing flower gardens and warm walls embrace the old lean-to conservatory that acts as a dining room.… Read more

West Hatch, Tisbury, Wiltshire SP3 6PA

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Restaurant Interlude

Lower Beeding, West Sussex ££££

Sussex meets South Africa in a bravura fine-dining experience

Dating from the 19th-century and surrounded by 240 acres of Sussex gardens and woodlands, Italianate Grade II-listed Leonardslee House is now home to a distinctive and elegant fine-dining restaurant with rooms. Here, Jean Del… Read more

Dating from the 19th-century and surrounded by 240 acres of Sussex gardens and woodlands, Italianate Grade II-listed Leonardslee House is now home to a distinctive and elegant fine-dining restaurant with rooms. Here, Jean Delport and his team forage for ingredients, though the chef also looks to his South African culinary heritage, which lends a very distinctive flavour to his 16-course ‘Estate Experience’. Slices of biltong formed part of our array of canapés served in the bar, alongside breadsticks glazed with homemade ‘Marmite’ and topped with a refined version of slaphakskeentjies (a South African onion salad with a cooked egg and mustard dressing).

A first course of lobster with cauliflower and kombu-washed Exmoor caviar, served with a glass of excellent Blanc de Blancs from Leonardslee’s own vineyard, was almost upstaged by the accompanying vertoek – an ethereally light, savoury doughnut finished with lardo and crispy pork skin. The mosbolletjies bread course was a highlight. Made with wine must from the vineyard, the traditional anise-flavoured brioche-like loaf was served in a mini cast iron casserole with home-churned butter ceremoniously melted tableside in a pan into which biltong spices, mushroom garum, red-wine onions and herbs from the estate were added.

‘Rabbit eats carrot’ showcased another estate ingredient in an impressively elaborate signature dish of many parts: a terrine of rabbit, duck liver, pork and rabbit jelly sandwiched between wafers of 'feuilles de brick' pastry, paired with carrot mayonnaise; buttermilk- and vodka-marinated deep-fried rabbit leg, presented in a smoke-filled cloche; pastry boats of confit rabbit and chilli jam, topped with rabbit mousse, cured egg yolk and marinated carrots. The dish was completed with crisp carrot 'leather' tartlets filled with rabbit offal and presented on a moss-topped log from the garden – a bravura exhibition of culinary technique and nose-to-tail cooking that was a delight to eat.

There were a few hiccups during the three-and-a-half-hour marathon, but despite the extended duration, the pace of the meal never flagged and the service remained engaged and genuinely friendly throughout. Each course was accompanied by an information card, a clever way to avoid overly long dish descriptions at the table. Wines from Leonardslee and sister South African winery Benguela Cove offer particular value on a varied and interesting list where two-thirds of the bottles are priced at less than three figures – a pleasant surprise given the ambition of the restaurant.

Leonardslee Gardens, Brighton Road, Lower Beeding, West Sussex RH13 6PP

Shaun Rankin at Grantley Hall

Ripon, North Yorkshire ££££

The grand Palladian mansion near Ripon was once a further education college and was converted in 2019 into a luxury hotel and spa for a staggering £70m. For this kind of money, you get extravagance and theatre all the way &n… Read more

Grantley Hall, Ripon, North Yorkshire HG4 3ET

The Garden at Corinthia London

Westminster, London £££

There are plenty of reasons to linger in this cosy all-year courtyard garden right at the heart of the Corinthia London hotel. Beautifully sheltered, shaded and planted, it cuts a real dash in summer but come winter a mix of sofas… Read more

Whitehall Place, Westminster, London SW1A 2BD

The Pig at Bridge Place

Bridge, Kent ££

For many visitors, enthusiasm for this lovely 17th-century country house remains undimmed. As a member of the Pig Hotels group, the entire package appeals, including the chance of alfresco eating on fine days. Inside, the honeycom… Read more

Bourne Park Road, Bridge, Kent CT4 5BH

The Terrace

Masham, North Yorkshire ££

While Swinton Park’s main restaurant, Samuel’s, is as grandly Victorian as the rest of the turreted pile, the Terrace offers something more casual and more contemporary. Located in the same sensitively converted outbui… Read more

Swinton Park Hotel, Swinton Estate, Masham, North Yorkshire HG4 4JH

Whatley Manor, The Dining Room

Easton Grey, Wiltshire ££££

*Executive chef Ricki Weston is now offering a three-course carte (£120) as a more flexible alternative to the £175 tasting menu.* Approached via a long drive and obscured behind a high Cotswold stone wall whose gates… Read more

*Executive chef Ricki Weston is now offering a three-course carte (£120) as a more flexible alternative to the £175 tasting menu.*

Approached via a long drive and obscured behind a high Cotswold stone wall whose gates swing magically open to reveal the beautiful manor house beyond, this opulent country house hotel boasts acres of landscaped gardens, a spa and two restaurants, of which this is the flagship. Executive chef Ricki Weston’s ambitious, boldly flavoured nine-course tasting menu is an all-evening affair, starting with an aperitif and a chat with the sommelier in the oak-panelled drawing room before moving on to a showstopping snack course standing at high tables overlooking the kitchen pass. The rest of the night is spent in the blandly tasteful dining room, which could perhaps do with a little less beige and a little more character to hold its own against the food. Weston and his team work in full view of the diners and may even serve some of the dishes, alongside the discreetly professional waiting staff. The kitchen pulls no punches, so expect intricate, highly technical creations made from the finest ingredients – caviar, truffles, lobster – and presented with flair and incredible attention to detail. The brief, unadorned dish descriptions give little away. ‘Scallop, crème fraîche, trout roe’ appears as a ceviche of sliced scallop on a crème fraîche mousse surrounded by a ring of pretty orange trout roe, micro herbs and tiny balls of compressed pear and cucumber that pop with freshness in your mouth. On a separate plate, home-baked Earl Grey sourdough and a bundt-shaped ring of malt butter complete the picture. ‘Potato, lobster, lime salt’, arriving as one of three starters, is a triangular lobster and potato parcel, dusted with lime salt and adorned with a tiny flower, its petals made of wafer-thin potato and its centre a glistening heap of caviar. Puddings are no less inventive: ‘75% chocolate, blackberry and yoghurt’ appears as a shock-headed chocolate ball with preserved blackberries hiding between shards of tempered chocolate that are drizzled with 25-year-old ice-wine vinegar; a serving of damson yoghurt ice cream rounds things off. The sommelier will guide you through the extensive wine list, which favours the Old World and includes an impressive number of British vintages. There is also a small but well chosen – and surprisingly reasonably priced – selection by the glass.

Easton Grey, Wiltshire SN16 0RB

Worton Kitchen Garden

Worton, Oxfordshire

It takes a bit of finding, but persevere because this collection of farm buildings turned cosy café/deli/glasshouse restaurant is the very definition of quirky. Anchoring everything is a no-dig market garden and a herd of S… Read more

Worton Farm, Worton, Oxfordshire OX29 4SU

Woven by Adam Smith

Ascot, Berkshire ££££

Technically dazzling cooking in a dream-ticket getaway

When it's time to get out of town for a day, the Berkshire countryside looks most inviting. Coworth Park at Sunningdale, near the Ascot racecourse, is an imposing Georgian manor house in fondant white, part of the Dorchester Colle… Read more

When it's time to get out of town for a day, the Berkshire countryside looks most inviting. Coworth Park at Sunningdale, near the Ascot racecourse, is an imposing Georgian manor house in fondant white, part of the Dorchester Collection and home to a dining destination with a concept name and chef's signature. The room itself is on the anonymous side, done in placid russet and beige, but the culinary intelligence that powers it is irresistibly fresh and exhilarating. Adam Smith mixes his own culinary memories into a contemporary approach that looks to nature for its cues, with foraging on the estate backing up some premium supplies. The technical dazzle with which it's all rendered is astonishing.

The principal menu is divided into four sections: ‘pantry’, ‘larder’, ‘stove’ and ‘pastry’ – we might recognise these as canapés, starters, mains and desserts, but for the fact that there is nothing ordinary about what appears. To cue things off, there are nibbles that look to Asian takeaways for inspiration (a langoustine bun, Thai green crab etc), but also strike British heritage notes with an oxtail toastie and jellied Devon eel. When the first dish arrives, it reveals depths of unsuspected richness, as in a barbecued scallop with smoked roe and golden oscietra, with a top note of bright citrus adding dash. The main business might see a classy double-act of Cornish turbot and native lobster with textured cauliflower, salted grapes and truffle. An alliterative approach proves productive for a Hereford beef dish that comes with a tartare tart, tendon and tea. On the plant-based menu, things are sizzling when heritage beetroot meets three-cornered leek, morels and blueberries.

There is a signature chocolate dish for those who need their fix, incorporating sea salt, crème fraîche and cocoa nibs, while oabika (the cocoa juice concentrate made from the white pulp of the bean pod) goes into a more enterprising construction with macadamias, dulce de leche and lime. An array of ‘treats’ (like the petits fours they might serve in heaven) closes the deal with Jamaican Blue Mountain fudge, mandarin brandy baba, raspberry and Champagne jelly, and the like. The owners have amassed a wine list to suit the surroundings, with a heartening emphasis on sparklers and still wines from across the southern English counties – although there are, of course, plenty of old-school classics too.

Coworth Park, Blacknest Road, Ascot, Berkshire SL5 7SE

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