Moor Hall
Aughton, Lancashire
No. 3
The perfectly symmetrical mulberry tree planted in the kitchen garden of Moor Hall could stand as a symbol for everything that distinguishes this truly remarkable restaurant with rooms. Personally chosen by chef/patron Mark Birchall, it epitomises the all-embracing and uncompromising eye for detail that informs each aspect of proceedings here. Dining in the centuries-old, Grade II-listed house is an illuminating journey that begins with 'snacks' in the lounge (perhaps a little green tartlet of runner beans from the garden with cubes of wonderfully flavoured chorizo - just simple, fresh and singing with flavour). After that, a short tour of that meticulously maintained garden beckons (weather and daylight permitting), then on to the kitchen, where the last snack is presented – a dainty flower-strewn potato nest layered with smoked eel and fermented garlic. Finally, to the dining room, all clean, perfect lines, with glass walls and a cheese room lit like an oil painting. And then there are the thoughtfully considered details: trays designed to slot onto the tables; bespoke knives inset with flowers from the garden. What follows is a procession of courses at the pinnacle of British seasonal cooking, brilliantly conceived and executed with each component true to its purpose. Consider a plump and briny poached Louët-Feisser oyster with toasted quinoa sprinkled in the bowl, along with crisp cubes of lardo, shaved white beetroot and fennel sprigs, or Cornish monkfish and courgette served with red mullet and langoustine foam, tomato and lemon verbena – a dish of crystal-clear flavours, intense but never overwhelming. The centrepiece might be honey-roast duck, presented at the table then returned to the kitchen for prepping. Out comes a little bowl of rich ragù topped with whey onion and breadcrumbs, then the breast served with tart but sweet apricot gel, sweetcorn purée, yellow beans and girolles – a 'truly wonderful plate', perfectly proportioned and faultless. Alongside this, a little onion brioche and a parfait of the bird’s liver with truffle honey. To conclude, four dishes sit at the sweet end of the spectrum – notably a nod to local Ormskirk gingerbread involving ginger ice cream, candied parsnip and local celeriac (mimicking the stem ginger) with shards of gingerbread on top. Of course, such an incredibly precise spectacle requires the utmost orchestration but thoroughly engaged staff are more than up to the task, emanating chatty warmth as well as studied professionalism. The same care is extended to the wine list, with ace sommelier Matthew Davison overseeing an exceptional collection of bottles from classic and upcoming producers. Wine pairings are spot-on, and there are also flights of single-vintage teas for abstainers.
Dining Information:
Accommodation, Separate bar, Wheelchair access, Parking, Electric car charging, Family friendly, Credit card required
Prescot Road, Aughton, Lancashire L39 6RT
01695 572511
