Shaun Rankin at Grantley Hall

‘What a place!’ exclaimed one reporter after visiting Grantley Hall – a vision of unabashed Palladian opulence set in impossibly manicured grounds complete with water features, sculptures and immaculate flower beds. Inside, lofty ceilings, sumptuous drapes and chandeliers come as standard, while staff glide around effortlessly, attending to your every whim. 

Shaun Rankin’s self-named restaurant fits these surroundings like a velvet glove, and the dining experience is refined to the nth degree from the moment you are cosseted in the drawing room, sipping fizz and nibbling on superlative home-cured charcuterie. Then it's a move to the adjoining dining room for a multi-course menu full of intricate detailing. Ingredients are of the highest order, execution never falters and flavours are exquisitely harmonious throughout – it's a cavalcade of delights, although the standout bread course served with whipped bone marrow, dripping and instantly addictive 'beef tea' shows that Rankin is still true to his roots. 

Elsewhere, his homage to lobster involves the whole beast: the tail poached in smoked lobster butter, the claw in a separate glass bowl with sea purslane and samphire, doused in a rich, decadent bisque made from the crustacean’s head. Or how about a serving of ‘spoonably tender’ Yorkshire-reared wagyu short rib topped with tongue, beef tartare and peppy lovage, with a glossy peppercorn sauce. Seasonal pickings also have their moment – as in Thirsk asparagus served with lamb’s sweetbread, stuffed morel and a buttermilk/wild garlic sauce or a summery dessert involving strawberry, marigold and yoghurt. 

Thoughtful drinks pairings contribute a great deal too, especially the carefully considered ‘soft’ options – we're sold on the citrussy mix of cold-pressed apple juice, pomegranate and sorrel infusion. Wines are an equally adventurous bunch, from an Iranian Irdabama made with the indigenous Samarghandi grape to a 2023 Tannat 'Atlantico Sur' from Uruguay. Of course, all of this comes at a high price.