Woven by Adam Smith
Ascot, Berkshire
If your faith in fine dining has been shaken in the post-pandemic era of no-choice tasting menus and unfathomably exorbitant prices, head to Coworth Park. Head chef Adam Smith, who learnt his trade at the Ritz, has weaved his magic here since 2016, but his rise in stature (he’s still in his mid-30s) is now reflected in the restaurant’s new name, gained following a 2022 refurbishment. The hotel’s setting is sumptuous: a Georgian stately home in 240 acres of parkland, the expansive dining room reflecting the ‘woven’ theme, with loom-inspired partitions and ceiling hangings. The ‘hotel lounge’ vibe hasn’t entirely been dispelled, but the views over the grounds (best seen from the conservatory) add to the luxe atmosphere. The food? Yes, prices are high, but you can see where your money goes. You’ll be treated to complex, thoughtful dishes exuding originality, awe-inspiring technical flair and an artist's eye for presentation. The menu might seem confusing, with headings such as 'from the larder', 'from the stove' and 'from the pastry', but outstandingly knowledgeable staff soon explain matters: for the above, read 'starters', 'main courses' and 'desserts'. A love and appreciation of food suffuses Smith’s repertoire, which acknowledges locality (honey from Coworth’s own hives), seasonality and culinary heritage (playful morsels such as an exquisite lollipop of coronation chicken). Due reverence is paid to bread, which gets its own unadvertised course (five exemplary varieties, served with three dips). Eating here is full of surprises and extra tit-bits, while displays of opulence include frequent (perhaps over-frequent) use of gold-leaf garnishes as well as generous helpings of oscietra caviar. Appetisers set the scene, with stunning precision manifest in bijou globes of avocado mousse covered in basil/yuzu gel and studded with minuscule white alyssum flowers, caviar and puffed quinoa. A springtime starter might feature a tongue-arousingly resilient morel mushroom, stuffed with chicken mousse and combined with wild garlic and a powerful Ogleshield cheese sauce. Mains can be equally intricate: spring lamb (a superlative steak and confit shoulder with pungent mint sauce) accompanied by pine nuts, kohlrabi and smoked tomato or a signature dish of succulent turbot beneath a roundel of lobster topped with caviar, all embellished with baby leeks, truffles and a foamy, luxurious sauce. A refreshingly zesty tower of calamansi jelly resting on nutty toasted rice, encased in white chocolate and topped with toasted rice and cardamom ice cream was the pick of the puds at inspection, while cheese-lovers have an entire aromatic alcove of prime British specimens devoted to their passion. The wine list, overseen by an expert sommelier, is predictably pricey and well-chosen, the English whites and sparklers being especially notable. On this evidence, Adam Smith has now entered the top tier of UK chefs. His economist namesake would approve; Woven enhances the gastronomic wealth of the nation.
Dining Information:
Accommodation, Private dining room, Separate bar, Wheelchair access, Parking, Family friendly, Credit card required
Coworth Park, Blacknest Road, Ascot, Berkshire SL5 7SE
01344 876600
