Best restaurants in Brighton & Hove
Published 14 February 2025

From the kitchens of London’s Oxo Tower via Tokyo to a casual backstreet haunt not far from Brighton beach is quite a journey, but locals can thank chef David Miney for bringing his take on a Japanese izakaya and the marvels of yakitori skewers to the South Coast. With its pumping soundtrack, close-packed tables and ringside perches at the counter overlooking the open grill, this 'unassumingly cool' venue cranks up the energy levels in the true spirit of an authentic Asian drinking den. The menu changes every week, specials are written up each day, and everything is designed for sharing. Skewers fresh from the binchotan (white charcoal) grill could be threaded with anything from various chicken body parts (thigh, gizzards, liver, heart and 'amazing' skin) to quail’s eggs, asparagus with bacon or shiitake mushrooms. Also look for non-skewered alternatives such as seaweed salad, charred sweet potato, and tofu with kimchi. Drinks include all the usual Japanese staples (sake, whisky, cold beer), plus cocktails and some international wines.

Part of the Black Rock Group, which also includes the Coal Shed, the Salt Room and Tutto, this remodelled 16th-century coaching inn remains one of the hottest tickets in town. It’s difficult to pinpoint the secret to the restaurant’s continued success because they do everything so well. As one diner noted: ‘Whether an occasion, a Sunday lunch or an early-doors dinner, this bistro can cater for anything’.

With its flint stone walls, open kitchen, dining counter and burnt-orange banquettes, it still feels fresh and stylish (the charming enclosed courtyard is a great spot in good weather). Service is seamless, from the warm welcome at the reception desk to attention to detail at the table. More importantly, everyone seems genuinely pleased to see you. Chef Peter Dantanus’s regularly changing list of small plates combines wood-fired cooking and global influences to beguiling effect.

A simple plate of plump, perfectly cooked mussels served on toast was made memorable by the gentle heat and richness of an Urfa chilli butter. Aubergine, smoky from the wood fire and deeply savoury from the addition of miso had the perfect combination of soft flesh and crispy skin, with a generous topping of crispy shallots, pomegranate and pine nuts adding crunch, while a sour cream dressing lent contrasting richness. Small, waxy skillet-baked potatoes, drenched in a herb cream and showered with gratings of hard sheep’s cheese have been a menu staple since day one and remain a must-order.

Not everything was perfect on our visit: the signature wood-fired flatbread with sesame brown butter was doughy and greasy, while charred grey mullet with buttermilk crab curry was served tepid in a grainy sauce. These did, however, feel like minor mishaps in the context of an otherwise pleasurable experience. The reasonably priced wine list is a bonus, but cocktails including the signature Burnt Orange Martini or something from the Margarita list, are the thing to drink here; the restaurant is open until 1am at the weekend for late-night drinks.

‘I love the authentic Italian flavours and the creative dishes made with fresh, quality ingredients,’ is just one ringing endorsement for this ‘small and super-stylish’ eatery. Counter seats bring you up close to the action, with enthusiastic staff buzzing about, slicing hams and pouring drinks while the chefs can be seen cooking pasta al dente and roasting prime cuts of meat and fish. Alternatively, there are some high tables at the back if you want something less frenetic.

Light and aromatic rosemary focaccia delivers the goods, and you should be prepared to share the seasonal small plates because that’s the deal here. Crisp, moreish arancini are a fixture (Venetian duck ragù with parsley and garlic emulsion, say), salads are fresh and zingy, and handmade pastas could range from rigatoni with flaked chalk stream trout, mussels, kale and spiced sofrito to tortelli of sweet potato with truffle sauce, amaretti and sage. If you fancy something meatier, how about Sussex beef rump and a rotolo of slow-cooked shin with Gorgonzola, spinach and roasted shallot, all in a rich beef sauce.

To finish, tiramisu or a Piedmontese chocolate, caramel and amaretti pudding compete with a trio of Italian cheeses. The five-course ‘chef's menu’ is an opportunity to take a more traditional path through the repertoire (with separate gluten-free and vegan options), all offered with optional Italian wine flights drawn from an impressive, knowledgeably assembled list.   

Located in the basement of Drakes Hotel, this neutrally attired dining room does the job without stirring high emotions – though the soundtrack might well push the limits of those not revived by memories of holidays in Ibiza. That said, readers concur that Dilsk is one of Brighton's foremost dining experiences. Tom Stephens has a CV packed with high-profile mentors, including Tom Kerridge and Simon Rogan, and delivers his version of modern British dining via a trio of menus – a three-course lunch (a great entry point), and a six- or ten-course taster.

The full repertoire kicks off with snacks, the pick being a smoked mackerel pâté with perry jelly and a squid-ink tuile. Next up, the signature lightly poached oyster with trout roe, pickled radish and a custard of dilsk (another name for dulse, the slippery red seaweed) – a dish that positively dazzles with colour and maritime flavours. Bread is a course in itself: a laminated brioche/croissant hybrid with a rich, potent butter, garlic and crispy black cabbage.

This is food in which sauces play off against impressive core ingredients sourced from the local area: a turnip dashi creation is a joyous umami hit when served with smoked eel and Brighton salami; a combo of squash, caviar and bone marrow elevates a piece of BBQ monkfish; and caramelised cream with ceps and truffle (the accompaniment to pink partridge breast) is simply ‘divine’.

Three dessert courses come with the full menu, the standout being a confection involving 71% Nicaraguan chocolate and rapeseed oil smoked over Earl Grey tea and barley miso – complex, comforting and delicious. Service is informed, dedicated and unobtrusive. The wine list is arranged by style, with some organic offerings but slim pickings under £35 a bottle.

A joint venture by local chefs Dave Marrow (Terre à Terre) and Isaac Bartlett Copeland (Isaac At), Embers is deliciously warm and glowing, the air full of the sweet scent of smouldering birch and ash – thanks to the fire cage in the centrepiece kitchen. Charcoal walls and chunky wood tables complement the cooking-over-fire vibe, while a seat at the counter is the best place to view the action. The menu kicks off with a handful of nibbles including sourdough bread (smoky and warm from a brief toasting), which is almost a meal in itself when teamed with beefy whipped 'dripping butter'. From the selection of small plates, we enjoyed three excellent combos: skillet-roasted potatoes and pickled jalapeños smothered in mole and chimichurri mayonnaise; tender roasted chicken leg with a deliciously charred and caramelised BBQ honey coating and a slick of roasted garlic aïoli; and wood-fired leeks with buttery marrowfat pea purée, crunchy garlic crumb and kale – the latter rather chewy, the only off-note in the dish. Our verdict? Generous, heartfelt, please-all cooking, characterised by big flavours and lots of delicious fat, with wonderful, fragrant smokiness running through each dish. In addition, there are centrepiece plates to feed two or more, say venison rump with beetroot ketchup and pickled blackberries. Our standout dessert was a supersized take on a Rolo, combining a bittersweet, velvety and spoonable dark chocolate exterior with a smooth caramel filling, all topped with milk ice cream and a crunchy milk chocolate crumb. The wine list reflects the freshness of the entire offering, with plenty of interesting sips including a decent showing from English vineyards. Terrific cocktails too.

At what point does the fact that Steven Edwards is a MasterChef: The Professionals winner (2013) cease to be the first thing one mentions? Not quite yet it seems. Etch is now well established as one of Brighton and Hove's high flyers (Hove, actually). Refurbishment in 2021 expanded the dining room and added a basement bar – and with its richly monochrome, Scandi-style minimalism, it feels every inch the contemporary venue. The kitchen remains open to the dining room, the chefs bringing some plates to the table in pristine whites. The fixed-price format deals in at five courses, raises you to seven, and sees you at nine, with a vegetarian version worthy of serious attention. There's indulgence from the off with a couple of amuse-bouches – mushroom truffle doughnut, maybe – and then the chef's Marmite brioche with seaweed butter, before your chosen number of courses (notified in advance; the booking process is...demanding). Jersey Royal and wild garlic soup is just perfect for a spring day, its flavours and textures making the menu's description as 'soup of the day' charmingly modest. Sea trout sees the centrepiece cured fish partnered with cockles (battered, ketchuped and ice creamed), while the starring feature of a dish of Dorset lamb loin is the slow-cooked tongue and dabs of Caesar salad emulsion. Regulars know all about the dippy egg course – 'still fun, and the soldiers cooked in duck fat were even better than I remembered'. Another canny combination sees blood orange and beetroot combine in a dessert as if blood brothers, forever bound together with the help of a white chocolate tuile and butterfly sorrel leaf. The wine list is arranged from highest price to lowest, so be warned your beating heart. The English sparkling wine section covers Sussex and Kent, with a map showing how blessed is the south east of England.       

The intersection of Fourth Avenue and Church Road provides the distinctly American-sounding name of this popular wine shop and eatery opposite the old Hove Town Hall. With its bottle-stacked shelves and counter seating, the whole place feels assiduously dedicated to the business of serious (but fun) eating and drinking, and while the ethos of mixing and matching plates has effectively evolved backwards (as elsewhere) into the considerably more antiquated mode of a smaller plate followed by a larger one, the net is still flung wide for inspiration. Pickling and preserving are enthusiastically favoured. Cured chalkstream trout with saffron-pickled endive in blackcurrant-leaf oil might compete with aubergine miso in katsu with pickled carrots or prosciutto di Parma with flat peach panzanella and black garlic glaze. Among the larger possibilities may be rump of Herdwick hogget with goat's curd in lamb and basil dressing, or sea bass offset with a torrent of assertive flavours from seaweed gnocchi, sorrel and fermented blueberries. And with a whole world of appetising nibbles ranging from whipped cod's roe to houmous with preserved lemon, zaatar and lavosh crackers, no appetite need go unsatiated. Just make sure to leave room for the banana parfait, fennel-pollen panna cotta or affogato with a tot of Pedro Ximénez. If you enjoyed the glass or two of wine you tried with the food, buy a bottle to take home. The stylistically arranged list has been chosen with an authoritative nose and palate. Small glasses start at £7, half-bottle measures at £18.

Drinks List Of The Year 2024

After two decades cooking in such respected Brighton restaurants as the Coal Shed, the Salt Room and Gingerman, Dave Mothersill has set out his own stall. And what a stall it is. Located close to the Royal Pavilion, this contemporary eatery – mirrors, modernist tables and chairs, parquet floors – delivers cooking that soars far beyond standard bistro fare. Mothersill draws on childhood memories, family and his own travels to create epic set menus peppered with dishes ranging from a jewel-like raw Orkney scallop with ponzu and yuzu, preserved rhubarb, horseradish/elderflower sorbet and peppery marigold leaves to a classy, marshmallow-soft Selim pepper meringue with rhubarb, buckwheat crumble and rhubarb granita. Each course yields vivid flavours, on-point cooking and artful presentation, the ingredients unsurpassed – from line-caught sea bass (cooked just so) with fat asparagus, courgette, pea purée and a sauce of smoked sea bass bones, smoked butter, miso and mirin to pink, tender salt-aged Devon duck brushed with burnt honey and teamed with morels and a sauce made with duck offcuts, hazelnut and Kampot pepper. Seasonality is everything. A springtime creation of confit Jersey Royals, salted gooseberries, straw potato fries, smoked eel and Exmoor caviar, for example, delivers a comforting, clever and unpredictable take on the humble spud. Even the simplest sounding dishes exceed expectations – a feather-light, tear-and-share brown butter-glazed Parker House roll, perhaps, served with wild-garlic butter, or a velvety duck liver parfait topped with sweet, citrussy yuzu. This is cooking that rarely puts a foot wrong – top-grade dining without the stuffiness and pomp. The whole place is relaxed, vibey and cool, driven by staff who know the full story of every dish, from sourcing to plate. An international wine list matches the sophistication of the food, with some excellent local and natural pours catching the eye.

East African cooking meets Gujarati cuisine – there's no other menu in Brighton quite like it. At this casual, intimate neighbourhood spot, expect closely set tables, warm, personal service and some seriously delicious, gently spicy food that's well worth the short journey to the northern edge of the city. The menu changes regularly but look out for kalio (a rich lamb curry with crispy saffron potatoes) and the deep-fried cauliflower with crisp batter, chilli and lemon sauce – a must-order. The urban pavement terrace is a popular spot when the sun shines.

An eclectic menu of small plates might not sound like the most original idea for a modern casual restaurant (especially one in Brighton, where the formula has spread like wildfire), but no one does it quite like Jack Southan and Will Dennard (veterans of the local street-food scene). Hold on to your palate, it's in for quite a ride. Surprising but wholly successful combinations such as taramasalata served with a ‘moules marinière’ croquette and caviar or lychee ceviche with tomato and jalapeño are as varied as the motley collection of beautiful vintage crockery they’re served on. 

However, the devil is in the detail, with nearly every dish reflecting that little bit of extra thought and effort from the kitchen that lifts the food to delicious heights. You don’t just get any old mayo with your crispy potatoes, it's a spicy sambal aïoli, while beef carpaccio is reimagined with smoked salsa macha and feta – also check out the salmon dumplings with coconut tom yum and cabbage. Desserts are an afterthought, although you might be tempted by the coffee ganache with salt caramel.

The place is run by a small team with ‘so much passion’, and reporters also rave about the intimate, contemporary dining room with its low lights, cool urban music, blue/grey banquettes and eye-catching botanical wall feature. Navigating the well-chosen wine list is a breeze, with ‘naturals’ listed separately from the more traditionally produced bottles; the short list of local beers and inspired cocktails is worth exploring too (spicy mango Margarita, anyone?).

For a true taste of Thailand, head to the Eagle, a popular backstreet pub in Brighton's North Laine district where Bookie (originally from Lampang) and her all-female kitchen team are in residence. Order at the bar then settle into a booth at the back for well-made favourites such as pad thai, laksa and curries. Must-orders include khao soi (chicken and noodles in a vividly spiced coconut sauce laced with shrimp paste) and yum ma muang (a refreshingly spicy mango and prawn salad with a vibrant hot/sweet/sour/salty dressing). Portions are generous, but if you over-order, staff will happily box up any leftovers.

The debut restaurant from the brother and sister team of Euan MacDonald and Mel Culcross has brought something new and distinctive to Brighton’s already diverse dining scene. This stylishly conceived space seamlessly combines elements of a dining room, lounge and bar but has been tastefully fitted out with modern mid-century design flourishes. It’s full of delightful details ranging from bespoke Warhol-like 'soup can' cutlery holders labelled with Brighton street names to a random collection of owl ornaments by the bar.

The short but wide-ranging menu devised by executive chef Bookie Mitchell (who also runs Namo Eat at the Eagle pub) is an equally agreeable prospect. Expect anything from a crowd-pleasing ‘egg and soldier’ (a sesame prawn toast finger served with cured egg yolk and soy sauce for dipping) to a faithful rendition of bang-bang chicken or ‘No No Slow’ – a deeply satisfying, beef-cheek and coconut curry made to Culcross’s recipe.

NNP's list of original cocktails – all batch-made in-house – is worth the visit alone and includes a sprightly ‘Supagrass’ involving tequila, vermouth, lemongrass and salted coconut. Although there are just 10 wines on offer (including a Portuguese sparkler) each one has been carefully chosen and all are keenly priced, with small glasses of the house pours from just £6.20.

It's no reservations so you can just drop in and do what you fancy - a few drinks and snacks or go all in for a proper blow out. No No Please feels like a proper, convivial neighbourhood place.

The pink neon sign and smart olive-green frontage bring some welcome style and swank to a rather drab stretch of Hove's Western Road. Flanked by a kebab joint and a vape shop, it’s no surprise to learn that this intimate small-plates restaurant used to be a takeaway. Chef and owner Diego Ricaurte has created an attractive space with exposed brickwork, decorative filament wall lamps, tiled floors and simple but stylish wooden furniture. You can see the team at work in the open kitchen from wherever you sit – and wherever you sit you’ll be close to your neighbouring table, but that just adds to the conviviality.

In addition to the charming and friendly front-of-house team, the chefs deliver some of the dishes to the table themselves, giving diners the opportunity to chat – in fact, everyone is keen to talk about the food on offer here. The Ecuadorian chef's culiary heritage and wider influences from his travels gel into a satisfying and coherent dining experience.

A regularly changing menu features carefully sourced produce, much of it local, all brought together in a selection of vibrantly flavoured, eclectic dishes with South American and Indian influences looming large. Goat from nearby Cuckmere might be served as a birria taco, while locally landed line-caught sea bass could be sliced into a Peruvian-style tiradito and served with a kiwi and raspberry 'leche de tigre' plus a scattering of colourful wildflowers.

The wine list is short but full of interesting selections such as a Txakoli rosé and an impressive number of organic and biodynamic bottles – although the food also suits the local beers and well-made cocktails on offer. With only 20 seats, you’ll probably need to plan ahead to eat here – or be willing to dine early.

For more than a decade, Plateau has been the place in Brighton for natural wines and inventive cocktails. While that still holds true, it’s now firmly established as one of the best places for creative small plates too. Its early reliance on sharing platters of cheese and charcuterie as a sop to all that alcohol is a thing of the past; now, there’s a short, regularly changing menu bursting with deliciousness. Whipped cod’s roe (taramasalata to older readers) paired with the verdant, herbal spicy notes of zhoug is an inspired combination, and we’d return just to eat another bowl of the wonderfully comforting baked mushroom rice topped with a hillock of salted ricotta and breadcrumbs. Elsewhere, a pork and duck-liver terrine featuring perfectly tender, full-flavoured meat and some piccalilli (crisp vegetables and a pleasing mustardy punch) proved that the kitchen can be equally adept with the classics. It might sound over the top to describe a simply dressed green salad with pumpkin seeds as ‘thrilling’, but the rustic assembly of robust, bitter and crunchy English and Japanese leaves from NamaYasai Farm in nearby Cooksbridge was exactly that. The intimate dining room, with its stained glass, bare brick walls, wood floors and eye-catching floral displays is a relaxed, casual space that attracts a slightly more mature crowd (during our visit, at least). Tables, big enough to fit the small plates, are closely set but the jazz and funk soundtrack means your conversation won’t be overheard by your neighbours. If you’re not a natural wine expert, it’s worth asking for advice, as not everything on the list is designed to be a crowd-pleaser – although we enjoyed a reasonably priced and well-made organic Grenache Blanc from Potron Minet in the Languedoc.

One of Brighton's most striking restaurants is a light and airy space, housed in a handsome purpose-built two-storey brick building in the Hannington's 'retail and cultural quarter' development in the Lanes. Part of Ben McKellar's Gingerman group, the Flint House deals in small and sharing plates – nothing new, but with its enthusiastic and imaginative take on the concept, the kitchen keeps the idea fresh. Exuberantly eclectic, the food investigates a multitude of culinary traditions, perhaps serving East Asian-influenced miso and chilli emulsion with tender braised ox cheek fried in a crisp breadcrumb coating, and offering a rustic assembly of roasted aubergine, coconut yoghurt and curried lentils finished with a sprightly Middle Eastern-style dukkah spice mix. Go easy though, portions can be on the generous side, but don't miss the signature sweetcorn fritters with jalapeño mayonnaise, a staple since the restaurant opened in 2019. They go perfectly with a glass of locally made Ridgeview English sparkling from the concise but globally spanning wine list, especially when sitting at the counter by the open kitchen or on the first-floor rooftop terrace overlooking the Lanes. Not everything hits the mark, although the front-of-house team are efficient and professional but pleasantly relaxed, with a knack for creating a lively, upbeat atmosphere.

This is where it all began for chef and entrepreneur Ben McKellar. Since 1998, The Gingerman has gently evolved and is now part of group that has grown to include a country pub, an urban pub with rooms, and the trendy Flint House with it's 'sharing plate' ethos. Gingerman still has that neighbourhood feel, with buttoned leather banquettes along one wall, exposed brick walls and a menu that always seem to punch above its weight. How about roasted veal sweetbread with mint and dashi consommé? The fixed-price carte (two or three courses) makes good use of regional ingredients and has moved with the times. Heritage tomatoes might go into a gazpacho with Devon crab and crumbly, sharp Sussex Medita cheese, while Loch Duart salmon is given the confit treatment with a fragrant hit of elderflower. Among main courses, seafood gets a good showing (pan-roasted stone bass with coco beans and tempura oyster, maybe), and Southdown lamb is a regular (loin and confit belly with almonds and olives). Dark chocolate stars in a creative dessert with Kahlua and espresso, alongside a morello cherry sorbet. There's also a tasting menu with optional (and good-value) wine pairings, and the veggie version is no afterthought. Bottle prices kick off at £29 for a Languedoc-Roussillon, although the list covers the globe and also delivers appealing options by the glass and carafe.     

It’s now more than a decade since chef Duncan Ray (formerly of the Fat Duck) launched his much-loved seafood restaurant in a converted fishmongers on a backstreet close to Hove seafront. Since then, the intimate dining room has been spruced up with large, well-spaced bare-wood tables, comfortable designer armchairs and a tastefully minimalist interior featuring polished wood floors and white walls hung with seafood-themed art. Ray no longer runs the small basement kitchen single handed, which allows him time to serve and personally explain some of the dishes on his regularly changing seven-course tasting menu. In the beginning, there was just one waiter, now a full front-of-house team is headed up by Ray’s partner, Nicky Stephens, who brings a warm liveliness to proceedings. Open for dinner only, the evening runs rather like a supper club, with all 20 or so diners requested to arrive at 6.45pm. Things kick off with a trio of canapés that might include an artfully composed and delicious seaweed cracker of wild Argentinian red prawn, walnut mayonnaise, pork scratching and confit ginger. The signature ‘TLFM egg’, a riff on an Alain Passard classic, has become a staple of the menu and currently includes apparently random layers of Jerusalem artichoke purée, egg yolk, smoked haddock jelly, acidulated cream and passion fruit purée that actually work brilliantly together. The real stars of the show, however, are the three headline courses featuring the finest, freshest seafood, some of it locally landed. One standout dish involved a superb piece of meltingly soft confit Loch Duart salmon with a 90s-style Champagne foam encircled by a cordon of cauliflower and seaweed purée – although the accompanying mini loaves of Comté-stuffed milk bread, glazed with shrimp and rosemary butter almost stole the show. Desserts are outstanding, too: our chocolate délice, given a subtle, saline tang with the genius addition of capers and some contrasting crunch from a praline base and a crisp pistachio and pink peppercorn tuile brought proceedings to a memorable close. The short wine list leans mainly towards France and while mark-ups are far from greedy, you may have to break the £50 barrier to find a bottle that will do proper justice to the food. Alternatively, opt for the interesting matched wine pairing, curated by Dan Keeling and Mark Andrew of Noble Rot.

*The restaurant is currently closed for refurbishment. Due to reopen in spring 2026.*

Seafood cooked over fire is a USP to grab the attention of any self-identifying foodie – and it gets even better, because the Salt Room occupies a spot overlooking the English Channel. It's a shame about the busy road out front, especially if you're lucky enough to have nabbed a table on the terrace, but this is Brighton and you're not here for the tranquillity, right? Crittal-style floor-to-ceiling windows serve up seaside views indoors too (depending on where you're seated). There's an energy to the place which suits the city – it's big and loud. The menu favours seafood but meaty and veggie things are not discarded, perhaps Himalayan salt-aged ribeye, or tempura king oyster mushrooms. If you're diving into the seafood, and have a willing accomplice, the blackboard reveals the market fish of the day, cooked over hot coals: Brighton sea bass or Cornish brill, say, filleted or on the bone ('so you can divvy it up yourself'), arrives with potatoes, vegetables, lemongrass and seaweed consommé. Mackerel 'nduja is a first-course rillette with tangy salted ricotta and pickled shallots, or there might be tuna crudo with spicy ponzu. A main-course cod, cooked just-so, comes with cauliflower multiple ways and a shellfish bisque of proper depth, while Cornish monkfish gets the barbecue treatment and a stew of white beans and 'nduja (again). Desserts include a board of seaside-themed treats, but the highlight for one reader was a choux bun with passion fruit and mango crémeux. The wine list kicks off with a selection called 'Coastal Whites', which sails from Kefalonia to Cape Aghulas; bottles start at £25, with plenty of options by the glass and carafe. 

There is something reassuring about the classic bistro feel of period wine prints, a chalkboard, banquette seating and bare wood tables – it may be 2025, but you could be dining in 1975. There's also a certain timelessness to the menu, which might well include oysters, beef tartare and a bavette steak. But look a little closer and you’ll see that owner James Thomson and chef George Upshall have elevated this popular neighbourhood destination above simple nostalgia.

The carefully curated wine list, one of the best in the city, focuses on small producers from around the globe (including some from Sussex), so you can be sure that you'll drink very well here. You’ll also be well looked after by the caring front of house team, who patrol the room attentively and top up wine glasses with just a dash of hand-behind-the-back ceremony. But most importantly, you’ll eat well from the weekly changing, seasonal menu.

A recent lunch started with very good home-baked sourdough, ahead of an expertly made rabbit and chicken galantine, the subtle flavours of which were enhanced by the piquancy of a sherry-infused prune wrapped in pancetta. Only some undressed salad leaves let the side down. Veal chop was a good-quality piece of meat cooked accurately to medium-rare, served sliced with a meaty brown butter jus, plus the bone for presentation... and gnawing (the atmosphere is relaxed, so you won't feel self-conscious picking it up and getting to work on it). Sides of bright, fresh, garlicky greens and a many-layered Quality Chop House-style deep-fried confit potato made for a very satisfying and generously proportioned main course.

A classic crème caramel had the required wobble and was not too sweet, although some honey-steeped apricots gilded the otherwise joyful lily. Also look out for the sub-£30 seasonal set menu available at various times during the week (check the restaurant’s website for details).