Palmito
Hove, East Sussex
Entry
The pink neon sign and smart olive-green frontage bring some welcome style and swank to a rather drab stretch of Hove's Western Road. Flanked by a kebab joint and a vape shop, it’s no surprise to learn that this intimate small-plates restaurant used to be a takeaway. Chef and owner Diego Ricaurte has created an attractive space with exposed brickwork, decorative filament wall lamps, tiled floors and simple but stylish wooden furniture. You can see the team at work in the open kitchen from wherever you sit – and wherever you sit you’ll be close to your neighbouring table, but that just adds to the conviviality. In addition to the charming and friendly front-of-house team, the chefs deliver some of the dishes to the table themselves, giving diners an opportunity to chat. And you’ll want to talk about the food. The culinary heritage of the Ecuadorian chef and wider influences from his travels gel into a satisfying and coherent dining experience. A regularly changing menu features carefully sourced produce, much of it local, all brought together in a selection of vibrantly flavoured, eclectic dishes with South American and Indian influences looming large. Goat from nearby Cuckmere might be served as a birria taco, while locally landed line-caught sea bass could be sliced into a Peruvian-style tiradito and served with a kiwi and raspberry 'leche de tigre' plus a scattering of colourful wildflowers. The wine list is short but full of interesting selections such as a Txakoli rosé and an impressive number of organic and biodynamic bottles – although the food also suits the local beers and well-made cocktails on offer. With only 20 seats, you’ll probably need to plan ahead to eat here – or be willing to dine early.
