Palmito
Hove, East Sussex
The pink neon sign and smart olive-green frontage bring some welcome style and swank to a rather drab stretch of Western Road in Hove. Flanked by a kebab joint and a vape shop, it’s no surprise to learn that this intimate small-plates restaurant used to be a takeaway. Joint chefs and owners Kanthi Thamma and Diego Ricaurte did most of the conversion work themselves and have created an attractive space with exposed brickwork, decorative filament wall lamps, tiled floors and simple but stylish wooden furniture. You can see the chefs at work in the open kitchen from wherever you sit – and wherever you sit you’ll be close to your neighbouring table, but that just adds to the conviviality. In addition to the charming and friendly front-of-house team, the chefs deliver some of the dishes to the table themselves, giving diners an opportunity to chat. And you’ll want to talk about the food, which draws on the culinary heritages of Thamma (from Hyderabad) and well-travelled Ricaurte (from Ecuador) to thrilling effect. The menu changes often, but highlights of a recent meal demonstrated just how well the disparate influences gel into a satisfying and coherent dining experience – from tacos generously filled with slow-cooked Longhorn beef, cheese and jalapeño salsa, served alongside a richly flavoured bowl of broth for dipping, to a delicately spiced and delicious helping of roasted butternut squash with moong lentil and coconut dhal. The freshly made parathas – addictively light, flaky and buttery – are a must-order too. The list of wines is short but full of interesting selections such as a Txakoli rosé, as well as an impressive number of organic and biodynamic bottles – although the food also suits the local beers and well-made cocktails on offer. With only 20 seats, you’ll probably need to plan ahead to eat here – or be willing to dine early.
