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An eclectic menu of small plates might not sound like the most original idea for a modern casual restaurant (especially one in Brighton, where the formula has spread like wildfire), but no one does it quite like Jack Southan and Will Dennard (veterans of the local street-food scene). Hold on to your palate, it's in for quite a ride. Surprising but wholly successful combinations such as taramasalata served with a ‘moules marinière’ croquette and caviar or lychee ceviche with tomato and jalapeño are as varied as the motley collection of beautiful vintage crockery they’re served on. 

However, the devil is in the detail, with nearly every dish reflecting that little bit of extra thought and effort from the kitchen that lifts the food to delicious heights. You don’t just get any old mayo with your crispy potatoes, it's a spicy sambal aïoli, while beef carpaccio is reimagined with smoked salsa macha and feta – also check out the salmon dumplings with coconut tom yum and cabbage. Desserts are an afterthought, although you might be tempted by the coffee ganache with salt caramel.

The place is run by a small team with ‘so much passion’, and reporters also rave about the intimate, contemporary dining room with its low lights, cool urban music, blue/grey banquettes and eye-catching botanical wall feature. Navigating the well-chosen wine list is a breeze, with ‘naturals’ listed separately from the more traditionally produced bottles; the short list of local beers and inspired cocktails is worth exploring too (spicy mango Margarita, anyone?).