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Wilder

Gloucestershire, Nailsworth - British - Restaurant - ££££

Ambitious, enlightened cooking full of surprises

Overall Rating: Very Good

Uniqueness:Does the establishment stand out in the context of the local area? Very Good

Deliciousness:How delicious is the food? Very Good

Warmth:How warm is the service and the hospitality in general? Very Good

Strength of recommendation:How enthusiastically and widely would you recommend the establishment? Good

Surprise is of the essence at chef-patron Matthew Beardshall’s smartly appointed but intimate restaurant, where dinner starts at 7pm for everyone and there’s no printed menu. Instead, customers can look forward to eight meticulous planned dishes inspired by what’s in season. The results are ambitious, enlightened, innovative and peppered with on-trend detailing, while accompanying drinks (alcoholic and non-alcoholic) are as impressively researched and innovative as the food. Everything is prepared in the tiny kitchen by Matt himself, who chats happily over the pass and occasionally emerges to serve one of the dishes himself. The front of house staff are equally friendly, welcoming and knowledgeable. A shot of homemade kombucha opens service. Then it’s time for a glass of Joseph Perrier, Cuvée Royal Champagne to go with clever canapés such as medjool dates with red miso or a goat’s curd and kimchi tapioca cracker. Breads stay with the seasona...

Surprise is of the essence at chef-patron Matthew Beardshall’s smartly appointed but intimate restaurant, where dinner starts at 7pm for everyone and there’s no printed menu. Instead, customers can look forward to eight meticulous planned dishes inspired by what’s in season. The results are ambitious, enlightened, innovative and peppered with on-trend detailing, while accompanying drinks (alcoholic and non-alcoholic) are as impressively researched and innovative as the food.

Everything is prepared in the tiny kitchen by Matt himself, who chats happily over the pass and occasionally emerges to serve one of the dishes himself. The front of house staff are equally friendly, welcoming and knowledgeable. A shot of homemade kombucha opens service. Then it’s time for a glass of Joseph Perrier, Cuvée Royal Champagne to go with clever canapés such as medjool dates with red miso or a goat’s curd and kimchi tapioca cracker. Breads stay with the seasonal theme, ranging from oat soda bread in winter to sourdough with wild garlic oil in summer.

Inspired fish and vegetarian courses such as koji-marinated celeriac with celeriac purée, mushroom ketchup and chestnut mushrooms are the prelude to a big meaty main course of, say, roast sirloin of Angus beef or slow-roast shoulder and loin of goat with Mediterranean companions including aubergine caponata and crispy parsnip gnocchi (excellent with a glass of Bulgarian Enira from the Bessa Valley).

Sweet dishes might feature a ‘snowball’, crispy rice-pudding beignets with sour cherry sorbet and ‘drunk cherries’ or – in summer – a trio of rhubarb in various guises. As well as accompanying small glasses of wines from around the world, there are cold-brew teas and other creative non-alcoholic concoctions. There's also the boozy bonus of a five-course Champagne brunch on Saturdays (from 11.30am). In the end, it’s all about enjoyment, and reporters confirm that Matt ‘definitely succeeds’ in every department.

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VENUE DETAILS

Market Street
Nailsworth
Gloucestershire
GL6 0BXGB

01453 835483

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