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The Waterside

North Yorkshire, Ruswarp - Modern British - Restaurant - ££

Deceptively simple seasonal food in a glorious riverside setting

Overall Rating: Very Good

Uniqueness:Does the establishment stand out in the context of the local area? Very Good

Deliciousness:How delicious is the food? Very Good

Warmth:How warm is the service and the hospitality in general? Very Good

Strength of recommendation:How enthusiastically and widely would you recommend the establishment? Very Good

If location is everything, then Chloe and David Ellis have it all. After making a big hit with Pizza West in Whitby, they have created a beautiful indoor/outdoor restaurant on an idyllic stretch of the river Esk. What was once a soggy riverbank has been gravelled, decked, planted and set with tables for outdoor dining. Despite our unpredictable weather, they claim most visitors still prefer to eat outside. Children have their own mini picnic tables and diminutive deckchairs, while ‘the landing’ is a lovely spot for a drink by the water’s edge. And, with Whitby just two miles downriver, the new outdoor kitchen provides oysters and Champagne, as well as locally landed fish.  Indoors, the 50-cover dining room is on two levels with staff working in an open kitchen, delivering a menu that matches the setting. It’s seasonal, local and deceptively simple, perhaps a dish of aromatic Tuscan sausage and caramelised onion with a vivid green, wild garlic aïoli, o...

If location is everything, then Chloe and David Ellis have it all. After making a big hit with Pizza West in Whitby, they have created a beautiful indoor/outdoor restaurant on an idyllic stretch of the river Esk. What was once a soggy riverbank has been gravelled, decked, planted and set with tables for outdoor dining. Despite our unpredictable weather, they claim most visitors still prefer to eat outside. Children have their own mini picnic tables and diminutive deckchairs, while ‘the landing’ is a lovely spot for a drink by the water’s edge. And, with Whitby just two miles downriver, the new outdoor kitchen provides oysters and Champagne, as well as locally landed fish. 

Indoors, the 50-cover dining room is on two levels with staff working in an open kitchen, delivering a menu that matches the setting. It’s seasonal, local and deceptively simple, perhaps a dish of aromatic Tuscan sausage and caramelised onion with a vivid green, wild garlic aïoli, or a plate of smoky charred leeks on a swathe of earthy houmous given a welcome crunch from chopped and toasted almonds. 

Chefs Rob Miladinovic (formerly at now-defunct Star Inn the Harbour) and Brianna Harrison (formerly of Brawn in East London) have an intelligent awareness of taste and texture: a tender pork chop is given a crisp crumb and a contrasting pillowy pomme purée, while an outstanding dish of silky pappardelle with wild mushrooms and lemon butter is boosted by the crunch and flavour of tempura shimeji mushrooms. By contrast, burnt Basque cheesecake is as soft as velvet, with just a hint of bitterness from its scorched top and a dollop of seasonal Yorkshire rhubarb purée on the side. A concise wine list is supplemented by some terrific cocktails (the non-alcoholic White Lady comes highly recommended).

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VENUE DETAILS

Chainbridge, The Carrs
Ruswarp
North Yorkshire
YO21 1RLGB

07796 356147

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OTHER INFORMATION

Accommodation, Separate bar, Counter seating, Parking, Family friendly, Credit card required

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