The Swine Bistro

Jo and Stuart Myers' evolution from sandwich shop owners to ‘proper restaurateurs' (Jo's words) has been quite a trip. Their previous venture, The Swine That Dines was a 20-ish seater on the brim of the city centre, while this upgrade is a 40-cover bistro in Leeds’ most well-known suburb, just round the corner from Headingley Stadium (and about 'four and a half pints' along the famous Otley Run pub crawl).

Order a plate of devilled eggs and gildas while you browse the starters, which might include sardines with jardinière vegetables, pickled to pop against the char of the fish skin, or one of Stuart's signature dishes – a rough-hewn terrine. Main courses generally veer towards classic bistro territory, with options such as confit chicken with peas and pancetta, salmon with a deep anchovy and sorrel sauce, or bavette with a bordelaise sauce made lip-smackingly sticky with bone marrow.

Jo Myers is responsible for the desserts, which might range from a classic pavlova given a Mexican nudge with tequila syrup to a livening coriander ice cream with blueberry compôte or a cheeseboard/dessert mash-up such as apple pie topped with a scoop of smoked Cheddar ice cream. The good-value lunch has delivered a particularly fine slice of beef-dripping toast with a tangle of shredded beef pooled in braising juices, while Sunday roasts have been warmly received.